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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for! |
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07-21-2014, 12:33 PM | #15 |
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07-21-2014, 05:53 PM | #16 |
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I don't know about AX, but for a track car setup, I wouldn't go with a 1.5 difference between front and rear camber. I generally like it closer to a .5 degree difference. Going from -2.5 to -1.5 in the rear must certainly have changed the relative grip balance between front and rear.
Overall, I think you've made too many changes at one time. I'd at least go back to the stock front bar and put the camber back in the rear or put it halfway to -2.
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07-21-2014, 08:25 PM | #17 |
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After thinking about this a bit more, I think you really need to put the suspension back to the way you had it and try that with the new tires before changing the suspension. Tires are HUGE in terms of effect on a car's handling.
Undoing so many changes one item at a time is likely to be a lot of wasted and unhappy time. Put it back and change only one thing at a time (the golden rule of suspension tuning...)
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07-22-2014, 04:02 AM | #18 |
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Go back to how you had it before. YOu're making too many changes at once.
Try 0 toe in the rear. |
07-22-2014, 08:12 AM | #19 | |
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Quote:
I guess it feels safer having a car start to push as it builds cornering forces, but it's harder to control and definitely slower IMO.
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07-22-2014, 10:43 AM | #20 |
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@wparsons I did not know about the variance in F/R camber gain. Good info. Thx
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07-22-2014, 12:02 PM | #21 |
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I'm going to remove the Strano Bar tonight and maybe reduce the ride height a bit to bring the rear camber back closer to where it was. I'm not sure what my f/r ride height was before though.
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07-22-2014, 12:45 PM | #22 |
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Is keeping the stock rake of 1/4" higher in rear a good idea?
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07-22-2014, 01:33 PM | #24 | |
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Quote:
My car is sitting at -2* rear with just a 1" drop, nothing adjusted in the camber. Up front after the 1" drop the camber was still basically 0, it took whiteline bolts and slotting the strut to get to -2* up front. The camber curve isn't linear, but under load the rears will be at -3* or greater (less?) while the fronts stay at -2*.
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07-28-2014, 01:00 PM | #25 |
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Thought I'd post an update for those who offered me advice. I removed the Strano FSB and installed the stock one. The car is much better now. I may actually add a bit more rear toe in as I find the car will over steer much easier now, I just want to be careful not to over do it.
Also, a short review of the Bridgestone RE-11A: They have plenty of grip, although are a little soft. I think they're a little slower than the Rivals overall, but there isn't a huge gap IMO. They make lots of noise at the limit too which is nice, however they don't seem to handle heat as well as the Rivals either. I had a re-run for one of my runs (100 second course) and shortly into my second run the grip fell off and I was sliding everywhere. Once cooled they were much better. I run my my tire pressure at 34psi hot F/R. EDIT: Also, they seem to be wearing much quicker than the Rivals as well. Here are the results from this weekend for anyone interested. (See the last post in this thread.) http://vinland.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2990 |
The Following User Says Thank You to d1ck For This Useful Post: | Racecomp Engineering (07-28-2014) |
07-28-2014, 01:20 PM | #26 |
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I love the KW V3 spring rates ... the softer front made a huge difference in my lap times and overall happiness in steering at my track days ...
yes there is a tinge of body roll, but if you have near -3 camber in the front, you don't need to worry about it affecting your grip ...
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