09-23-2018, 07:30 PM | #15 | |
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I can always run race fuel at the track and get a bit more. If the car is capable of a 2:04 at ecrat full weight, I don't think I'll get bored with it. That is about what my c6 was on street tires. Miata is about 15 seconds slower. There are a lot of guys out here that run 2:02-2:08 times. I bet 2 flat is possible with good tires on a cold day with healthy weight reduction. Is there any dreaded maintenance or repair that is just miserable? Any glaring weakspots? |
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09-23-2018, 08:04 PM | #16 | |
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The early throwout bearings in the clutch are a bit weak, but that's not a huge concern since for a track car when they go out the clutch won't be far behind (throwout bearings last 50k-75k miles instead of 70k-100k under typical conditions). Stock the cars run a little hot, but a good oil cooler and/or hood vents take car of that. The fuel pickup and tank aren't great at the track. With sustained high g left handers you can get fuel starve under half a tank, there is a one way plastic flapper door that helps but doesn't completely fix the problem (I've never had fuel starve at ECR, but MRS-C I got it below half tank stock and below a quarter tank with the flapper valve). The flapper is like $80 and takes under an hour to install (properly sealing the tank is the hardest part, a new gasket might be the best way to do it for an extra like $10-$30). The cars are very reliable on the track. I've done multiple back to back 20-30min sessions at ECR throughout even the summer without incident (I've even done a 45min session without any problems). The SCCA is coming back for a Time Trial and Race School November 17&18, as soon as registration opens on Oct. 1st I'll be signing up for it, there will be at least 5 other twins there and I'd be more than willing to give you a ride (there is no PDX since the race school is sharing track time but I'm almost certain that I can still give rides as a certified instructor). Since you're a member, once they open back up we can meet up at either an Open Track Day (I've instructed at nearly all of them so far) or during a member day. I'll give you a ride and maybe even let you take a few laps in my BRZ (I'll have to make sure you aren't too sketchy in person first). 2 flat in a NA twin is a tall order, but with the resurface, all the available power mods, and some R-comps it might be possible. |
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09-23-2018, 10:16 PM | #17 | |
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These cars tend to hold up pretty well on track. All you really *need* is an oil cooler, pads, and brake fluid. Like 14stu said, 13/14 have coilpack issues (supposedly fixed with the revised 652 part), and the verus flap will help with left hand fuel starvation. |
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09-24-2018, 05:26 AM | #18 |
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You'll be over 20k in a reliable track prepped twin with decent power....
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09-24-2018, 08:59 AM | #19 | |
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Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk |
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09-24-2018, 09:51 AM | #20 |
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I feel like you could buy a lot of corvette consumables for the cost of a prepped FRS
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09-24-2018, 10:56 AM | #21 | |
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You wouldn't be saving THAT much in tires once you consider the upgraded wheels / tires of a track prepped twin. |
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09-24-2018, 11:02 AM | #22 | |
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There's more to it than that though. The Vette is a monster and expensive one at that. It's a lot scarier to drive at the limit because it has so much more power, grip and price tag. 465hp doesn't sound like much because we're so numb to +600hp cars and electronic aids make it so easy to drive on the street. When you get on the track and are driving without aids, it's a lot. I love it, but it's not a good car for developing skill or driving 20x a year for my skill or budget. It's "just" a grand sport" but it's a monster. Freak in the sheets: But a lady on the streets : Last edited by GrandSport; 09-24-2018 at 02:21 PM. |
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09-24-2018, 11:16 AM | #23 |
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We should trade.
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09-24-2018, 11:23 AM | #24 | |
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A set of 17x9 maxxis rc1s for my BRZ are 40% of what a set of the grand sports tires cost. And I get 5-6 weekends out of them before they're just no longer grippy... |
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09-24-2018, 11:59 AM | #25 |
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At the track, I'm going to use 3-4 sets of tires this year. I spent $600-$700 on each (including shipping, tax, and mounting and balancing). I'm going to end up doing 25 trackdays this year. All tires: $2500
I replaced my front rotors (they'd actually last longer than one year but I'd rather replace early than have issues) for $200 all in. I'll end up using 4 sets of front pads at an average of $175 for a total of $700. I only used 2 sets of rear pads for $160 each for a total of $320. I flush brake fluid 2-4 times per year and change diff and tranny fluids once a year for a total of about $300 in fluids (not counting oil/gas). All together I'm looking at $5k a year with my high number of events, that's an average of $200 per trackday or about $100/hr of track time. I'm actually at $20k in costs over my first 4 years of ownership, including all the parts, consumables, and even gas for track events (and all the autox I've done). My projected total costs for 5 years is going to be right around $50k and that includes the initial purchase price of the car, all the parts, and all the consumables for both track and autox. The car will be worth $10-$12k with another $4k in parts (at fast selling prices). Total cost of ownership will come out to about $35k at that time (I don't plan on selling the BRZ then, but it's a nice round number). I bought my BRZ brand new, so I'm paying more in depreciation but I got a good enough deal that it made more sense to have the peace of mind of a warranty and new, known car (the model was too new to have used options anyway). The numbers are highly favorable for an 86 trackday car over consumables for a C7, a trackday C5, or even the consumables on a C6. The only cheaper trackday car is going to be a Miata. An ND would be just a little slower and slightly more expensive upfront (consumables are a wash since tire sizes are the same, maybe a little cheaper with the ND but 10% or less is my estimate). An S2k is another good option, but they are getting old, rare, and incurring a drift tax/price penalty. The twins fit a full set of tires, consumables, and tools in the back. The other options require at least a tire trailer. |
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09-24-2018, 01:56 PM | #26 | |
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Also, the FRS I'm looking at has a extra set of wheels and 2 extra sets of tires included. |
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09-24-2018, 02:12 PM | #27 | ||
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They don't even make them in GS sizes. Our only real options for track tires we can drive to the track on are Michelin Cup2 in OEM sizes (19F/20R) for $2k, which delaminate if you push them, or on 18" wheels, R888R for $1300 or so or NT01 for about $1500. We can get Hoosiers (R7/A7) for about $1800 on 18s, too. It's not easy finding a front tire at 285 (315 if you go aftermarket wheels) and 335-355 rear. Quote:
After 9 track days (one in the rain on street tires so really 8), I'm through 2 sets of tires ($1550 mounted each, low end), 4 oil changes ($75 DIY), 1 rear diff fluid swap ($150), one trans fluid swap ($200, didn't do it yet but need to), $1000 worth of pads, $1250 worth of rotor (one front pair and half a rear pair) and brake fluid ($300 total). That doesn't include costs I haven't incurred yet like shocks ($500 each for magnetic ride control ones), clutch, rebuilding brakes, coolant, plugs, etc. Fortunately, I have 7 years and 96,000 miles of warranty left so I don't have to worry about the $5000 electronic differential/locker thing. Keep in mind, I typically run 3, at most 4, 30 min sessions. I don't do all 7 (because I'm spoiled and can go whenever I want for free/my monthly dues). Full track days would be crazy. Anyway, my 8 track days totaled $6300. That's $787.50/day in consumables (actually, per 2/3 track day), or well over $400 PER HOUR of track time including fuel. (probably about $425 including fuel). I'll consume the entire FRS's purchase price in just 24 hours of run time. Bottom line, After about 17-18 track days, I'll break even on the FRS purchase just on the difference in consumables. Plus I'll OWN a FRS. Let's not forget that I also drop my risk of loss from $60k to $10k if I total the car, I have a dedicated track car I can gut/add harness/rollbar/etc to without affecting my weekend car and I get to say I own four cars Also, upgrade costs like splitter, wing, coilovers and big brake kits (though, the GrandSport comes with aero, factory mag ride and 6 piston brembos and 2pc rotors) are substantially lower than those for a C7. $1500 for a decent coilover kit is a pipe dream in C7 world. Adding 265hp and 1000lbs adds a LOT to consumables. Last edited by GrandSport; 09-24-2018 at 04:30 PM. |
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09-24-2018, 02:22 PM | #28 | |
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My old c5z is selling for 18k and it has 55k on the clock. I mean deals are out there.... IMO it's a wash between a c5z as it comes and a track prepped twin in terms of consumables. C5z parts are cheap and they're reliable out of the box. What would you really need to upgrade on a c5z besides safety? Whereas to seriously track a twin with some reliable and decent hp you're dropping coin. Depends on how far you take hp and how much you're really modifying the car. |
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