Exedy Stage 1 Clutch Issues

[STV3]

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

Good point.

I wil say this then, parting from your post.


CM FX350 (8 puck)/400 (six puck):

Minimal chatter (skipping/hopping feeling when taking off from a stop)
A LOT of gear rattle (what you hear when the car is idling and the clutch pedal is not pressed in )

Exedy Twin Disk (2 full faces and spacers):

A lot of chatter
Mild Gear rattle

Exedy Stage two (8 puck) fixed:

Minimal chatter
Minimal gear rattle

Yeah my other car has an ACT sprung 6 puck and the gear noise is ridiculously loud. Sounds like a knocking rod loud, but that is just normal for SRT-4's with a light weight fly wheel.

Also get some chatter on that clutch every once in a while if I don't take off smoothly.

OP, I agree with adjusting your clutch pedal. Give it a shot and also maybe try bleeding your clutch line.

[FrX]

I have the Stage 1 as well. It does chatter quite a bit.

[qtwre]

Originally Posted by romin

Second after running on the track and heating everything up the following sequence blocks the car from going into gear:

1) Put the car in neutral
2) Let out the clutch
3) Depress the clutch
4) Try to put the car back into gear

When it's cold this sequence works OK.
If I shut the car off it immediately goes into gear.
Rolling forward with the clutch in also allows it to go into gear but I can feel things aligning as I push it into gear.

Any ideas on what's causing this and possible work arounds?

I just called Exedy technical support about this. He said the first thing he would try is pedal adjustment. Otherwise, it sounds like the disc is hanging up on the input shaft due to a lack of lubrication between the shaft and the disc.

He said on their test vehicle they initially had the same problem with getting into gear after a bit of break-in. They cleaned up the shaft and the spline, lubricated and reinstalled then it was fine.

They include a little packet of grease for this reason. In my case I can't say for sure if it was used because my mechanic did the installation, but I would hope he did. I'll be trying the pedal adjustment today and hopefully solve the problem.

[qtwre]

Me again. I was with my mechanic trying to fix the issue. I found that when he put push in the clutch pedal and attempt to put it into first without any brake on, the car would move ever so slightly. I could see the wheels turn a degree or two. So the clutch is definitely not disengaging completely.

He tried adjusting the pedal plunger in both directions and neither helped, unfortunately. So I at least know where the problem is but I don't yet kow how to fix it. It seems like the slave doesn't have the pressure to fully depress the pressure plate. Either that or maybe the clutch disc has too much meat on it and it will eventually wear down and correct the issue.

It seems strange that it's a hit or miss problem. Does anyone sell a braided clutch line? That might help get that extra bit of fluid to the slave.

[mike the snake]

Maybe bleeding the system might get you the necessary travel to get the clutch to disengage completely. Air in the line will cause your problems with getting into gear.

[qtwre]

Originally Posted by mike the snake

Maybe bleeding the system might get you the necessary travel to get the clutch to disengage completely. Air in the line will cause your problems with getting into gear.

I thought about that but how likely is that to happen? These cars are still fairly new. Clutch fluid doesn't ever boil like brake fluid, does it? Our systems aren't shared.

One thing it may be is that I'm not out of the break-in period yet and I don't think the OP is either. I suppose it's possible that by the 750 miles they recommend, it could fix itself. I wouldn't expect this to be a normal part of break-in though.

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

Locking out of gears, the clutch instructions call for this, might be something to consider:

"Lack of lubrication/dry splines will cause failure to disengage gears and also cause clutch drag.
Never over lubricate / grease the spline of your clutch disc as grease will splatter during rotation of the engine and clutch."

Source: http://www.exedyusa.com/multimedia/s...structions.pdf

Originally Posted by qtwre

Me again. I was with my mechanic trying to fix the issue. I found that when he put push in the clutch pedal and attempt to put it into first without any brake on, the car would move ever so slightly. I could see the wheels turn a degree or two. So the clutch is definitely not disengaging completely.

He tried adjusting the pedal plunger in both directions and neither helped, unfortunately. So I at least know where the problem is but I don't yet kow how to fix it. It seems like the slave doesn't have the pressure to fully depress the pressure plate. Either that or maybe the clutch disc has too much meat on it and it will eventually wear down and correct the issue.

It seems strange that it's a hit or miss problem. Does anyone sell a braided clutch line? That might help get that extra bit of fluid to the slave.

I am fairly certain your issue is right there in my above post. The splines need more lube. The bad news is that to do so, trans needs to come down.

[qtwre]

Could be, but my mechanic says he definitely lubed it. He said he just used a thin coat on the shaft and the inside splines. They don't exactly specify how much to use. Is 'clutch drag' the terms for trouble engaging gears? I don't have a problem with disengaging.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

I am fairly certain your issue is right there in my above post. The splines need more lube. The bad news is that to do so, trans needs to come down.

This! The quote from exedy directly said that this is likely the issue, why bother messing with other things before attempting this?

[qtwre]

Originally Posted by wparsons

This! The quote from exedy directly said that this is likely the issue, why bother messing with other things before attempting this?

Because this is the most expensive option for someone who doesn't have the facilities to drop the tranny himself.

I can't speak for the OP, but in my case this problem came up after a few weeks with the clutch. I wonder if there was too little grease and it became contaminated with filings and dust. It seems like a bad design to require lubrication that will eventually become full of dust (and therefore stop lubricating.)

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by wparsons

This! The quote from exedy directly said that this is likely the issue, why bother messing with other things before attempting this?

To support the theory, local @marcoaferrer had the issue getting locked out of gear almost everytime, put a very minute amount of grease on the splines (paranoid of getting too much there and getting it on clutch), and his issue improve incredibly better, now he gels locked out maybe 5% of the time. So it's an encouraging result. @jamesm had the same issue on his ACT clutch, put lube in splines and all smooth after that.

[marcoaferrer]

Exedy has an oddly specific procedure for greasing the splines. They stress the importance of this in several documents.

This is a direct copy/paste from Exedys FAQ doc.

http://www.exedy-racing.com/racing/e...yfaq.html#ac13
__________________________________________________ ____

Do I need to apply grease to the spline of the disc?

Yes, it is required.
However, depending on the method of application and the amount, applied grease may disperse, causing judder and bad disengagement.
Precautions

• (1) Apply grease evenly to the spline tooth surface of both the main shaft side and the disc side using a brush or similar.
• (2) After the application, insert the disc into the main shaft, and slide it to see if it will move smoothly.
• (3) Wipe off the grease straying out from the disc and the main shaft using a rag or something.

<Caution>
Be careful not to deposit any grease or any other oil on the friction surface (flywheel, P PLATE, IM PLATE, disc). It may cause judder, slip, etc.

__________________________________________________ _________________


Im planning to perform this after break in is complete. I am even contemplating buying the grease that the specifically supply with the kit.

[qtwre]

Originally Posted by marcoaferrer

Im planning to perform this after break in is complete. I am even contemplating buying the grease that the specifically supply with the kit.

Good call. Since driving around after my mechanic playing with the clutch pedal, it hasn't locked me out. It's just somewhat tougher than it should be from a stop. I can deal with that for now and I'm curious to see what happens to the problem as break-in continues.

At first my world was crumbling when I thought there was something wrong with my transmission. I can deal with this.

[marcoaferrer]

Originally Posted by qtwre

Good call. Since driving around after my mechanic playing with the clutch pedal, it hasn't locked me out. It's just somewhat tougher than it should be from a stop. I can deal with that for now and I'm curious to see what happens to the problem as break-in continues.

At first my world was crumbling when I thought there was something wrong with my transmission. I can deal with this.

Another local experienced being locked out after 1000 miles. So I want it to get to that point before I get under the car again. Just as another margin of safety. Also I noticed that if the car isnt warmed up its not likely to happen. Might be due to the difference in the rate of expansion of input shaft and clutch spline hub. (but i no iz scientisticle)