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Old 09-14-2019, 12:42 AM   #127
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Wish I knew. My best guess is my engine sits further back but i'm using the pure automotive mounts which I know a lot of people are as well.



I don't think your engine is sitting back further than anybody elses', I think nobody openly said the tunnel needed to be cut and boxed. Mine is cut and boxed just like yours. It isn't much, and boxing it isn't a huge deal, but I can imagine what a pain in the ass it would be to go off the assumption that banging the tunnel would make it work. Banging, test fitting, in/out, only to find it doesn't have clearance... If someone has a 2J/CD009 without the tunnel cut post pictures, or a story of the clunking noise the tranny makes when they shift.


You're damn near there!
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Old 09-14-2019, 12:47 AM   #128
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I don't think your engine is sitting back further than anybody elses', I think nobody openly said the tunnel needed to be cut and boxed. Mine is cut and boxed just like yours. It isn't much, and boxing it isn't a huge deal, but I can imagine what a pain in the ass it would be to go off the assumption that banging the tunnel would make it work. Banging, test fitting, in/out, only to find it doesn't have clearance... If someone has a 2J/CD009 without the tunnel cut post pictures, or a story of the clunking noise the tranny makes when they shift.


You're damn near there!
I sincerely appreciate this comment. I was being told by a bunch of people otherwise and I said the same damn thing. I went in and out so many times only to find out it just isn't fitting without recess cuts. I can look back on it now and laugh, but it's enough to drive somebody to lose motivation... I'd rather tell people how tough this all was than act like it was a cake walk.
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Old 09-14-2019, 08:31 AM   #129
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I sincerely appreciate this comment. I was being told by a bunch of people otherwise and I said the same damn thing. I went in and out so many times only to find out it just isn't fitting without recess cuts. I can look back on it now and laugh, but it's enough to drive somebody to lose motivation... I'd rather tell people how tough this all was than act like it was a cake walk.
I just find it very odd that your transmission wouldn't fit but mine did. If I'd been willing to modify the transmission casing it would have needed even less hammering. There were many prongs or tabs on my casing (probably from the manufacturing process) that I could have simply cut off. I was worried about resaleability if I ever switched transmissions though
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Old 09-14-2019, 11:15 AM   #130
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It's really cool that you got it.
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Old 09-14-2019, 01:42 PM   #131
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I just find it very odd that your transmission wouldn't fit but mine did. If I'd been willing to modify the transmission casing it would have needed even less hammering. There were many prongs or tabs on my casing (probably from the manufacturing process) that I could have simply cut off. I was worried about resaleability if I ever switched transmissions though
Like I said above, it may have been his technique or attack points or the fact that the metal was already worked to the point of getting stiff. As noted on the second page of this thread, the bottle jack technique didn’t work and perhaps only acted to make the metal harder. It’s just a guess, but yea, working metal is an art, even when it is not.
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Old 09-23-2019, 10:08 AM   #132
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The car starts so smoothly! I drove it around the block on just the basemap and everything seems to be working great. Clutch engages well, gears shift smoothly, no weird noises, etc.

I have taken the time to organize this spreadsheet of everything done to my car. This does not include labor on anything since I did about 99% of the work myself.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...mphP9cS4o/edit

^The prices list in this spreadsheet are all what "you should expect to pay". They are not indicative of what i've spent but I will say my total is close to $42k on all these parts listed. Meaning I saved myself some money in certain areas. Others may save more, or less than me but as i've said before. If you want a properly built car that makes decent power, expect to spend $40k minimum on top of already owning a BRZ. And that is assuming you can do all of the work yourself.
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Old 09-24-2019, 11:48 AM   #133
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The car starts so smoothly! I drove it around the block on just the basemap and everything seems to be working great. Clutch engages well, gears shift smoothly, no weird noises, etc.

I have taken the time to organize this spreadsheet of everything done to my car. This does not include labor on anything since I did about 99% of the work myself.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

^The prices list in this spreadsheet are all what "you should expect to pay". They are not indicative of what i've spent but I will say my total is close to $42k on all these parts listed. Meaning I saved myself some money in certain areas. Others may save more, or less than me but as i've said before. If you want a properly built car that makes decent power, expect to spend $40k minimum on top of already owning a BRZ. And that is assuming you can do all of the work yourself.

Last year I met up with a professional builder to talk about doing a 2JZ swap and after going through everything I came up with $40-45k as well. However, you would have a beast of a car for that price! And it sounds like you do!
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Old 09-30-2019, 01:11 PM   #134
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^The prices list in this spreadsheet are all what "you should expect to pay". They are not indicative of what i've spent but I will say my total is close to $42k on all these parts listed. Meaning I saved myself some money in certain areas. Others may save more, or less than me but as i've said before. If you want a properly built car that makes decent power, expect to spend $40k minimum on top of already owning a BRZ. And that is assuming you can do all of the work yourself.
What do you think about Pure's rough estimate of about $32k to have this done in their shop?
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Old 09-30-2019, 01:21 PM   #135
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What do you think about Pure's rough estimate of about $32k to have this done in their shop?
Can you expand on that estimate? PM me and I will give you my honest opinion.
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Old 09-30-2019, 05:01 PM   #136
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The car starts so smoothly! I drove it around the block on just the basemap and everything seems to be working great. Clutch engages well, gears shift smoothly, no weird noises, etc.

I have taken the time to organize this spreadsheet of everything done to my car. This does not include labor on anything since I did about 99% of the work myself.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

^The prices list in this spreadsheet are all what "you should expect to pay". They are not indicative of what i've spent but I will say my total is close to $42k on all these parts listed. Meaning I saved myself some money in certain areas. Others may save more, or less than me but as i've said before. If you want a properly built car that makes decent power, expect to spend $40k minimum on top of already owning a BRZ. And that is assuming you can do all of the work yourself.
I cannot tell you how awesome and helpful this list/cost of parts is.

I know shops are extremely hesitant on giving these kinds of figures out (obviously I wouldn't expect a shop to ever give anything like what you've provided here, as you practically have a BOM w/ full on pricing and labor to boot)...BUT it's really good to see the LITTLE things that I haven't thought about or overlooked, because as you experienced, they add up...quickly.

Just curious, what kind of power are you looking to make on 93 with the 364.5? Correct me if I'm mistaken, but that turbo maxes at 800HP potential, so I'm guessing on 93 with boost limitation, you're probably looking in the 550-600whp range on a solid but aggressive tune?

I'm planning on running the 6466 or 6266 myself when the time comes depending on budget constraints and am eyeballing ~550+whp on 93 and 700whp on 93+meth.

Post up some new pics my dude, need to see everything now that you're able to drive it!
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Old 10-19-2019, 12:46 AM   #137
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https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

^The prices list in this spreadsheet are all what "you should expect to pay". They are not indicative of what i've spent but I will say my total is close to $42k on all these parts listed.

Solid work on the spreadsheet. The prices for listed items seem right inline with what the parts would go for.
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Old 04-21-2020, 08:19 AM   #138
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I've got a bad itch to drive my car, but I can't for a while. I had to take my axles out and send them back to DSS. Both axles were leaking grease from the boots and spraying onto the insides of my wheels. Seems like both seals were not tightened enough. No tears in the boots. Let's hope they fix them right this time. After shipping and another alignment, i'll be out an additional $150+ on top of the $900 or so I paid for axles. Of course you can't even put a number on the 1 month or more of downtime I will see. Pretty ridiculous but I guess it could always be worse.

Luckily, I have other things to do on the car while it's parked. Subaru 4/2 pot caliper install with new rotors and pads, flexfuel sensor install, some hood vents, couple other miner things. Will add some pics as I progress with these things.
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Old 05-22-2020, 03:28 PM   #139
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Little updates here and there.

I ordered an eBay TRD replica spoiler that came paint matched for $140 shipped. It is a perfect fit and the paint match is literally 10/10. Looks amazing too. I had to debage the Subaru and BRZ emblems but that was long overdue anyway.



I had the 600hp DSS axles on the car. At the time I purchased that was the only direct swap option without changing to 5x114.3 hubs. I put maybe 80 miles on them and found both boots leaking and spitting grease into the barrels of my wheels. DSS offered to repair them for free if I sent them in. I shipped them with Fedex and Fedex lost them. Luckily I had them insured but sadly it took me forever arguing with them to get some money. I then purchased their new 800hp direct swap axles and will be installing those tomorrow.



I also upgraded my calipers to the 06/07 wrx 4/2 pots. I painted them myself using VHT silver base, anodized purple paint and clearcoat. I also installed all new Power Stop rotors and pads.





Not pictured: I installed my flex fuel sensor with the GM quick connect fittings. E-85 coming soon!
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Old 05-22-2020, 10:06 PM   #140
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Hate to be a kill joy, but there is a good chance the paint could fade over time.

I replaced a side mirror for my lancer back in the day. $75 aftermarket versus $265 OEM, but it was apparent within a year or two where the extra money went, and it was to the paint. The aftermarket one looked identical, but the clear coat slowly faded over the year, and eventually, it was matte black. They either skimped on quality or on the layers of paint. Hopefully that isn't the case for you.
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