DCW Firestorm FRS

[Hawk77FT]

Originally Posted by doggy

Hmmm - almost everything what he said + :

thin layer of resin, let It dry a bit - till it gets tacky, then lay down fabric... Once CF layed down - put another 2-3 coats of resin - let ir dry till it gets hard, but still sticky - lay another layer... or two

Once its dry - sand down with 80 / 150grit - till you get the desired shape - DO NOT oversand - and damage CF... Better just sand down all the roughness - and clean everything really really good - use some pressured air - to get all the dusts out of the CF.Lay down another layer of Resin, let ir dry - and sand it with 150-220grit. Once again - if still not flat / nice surface - use some soft brush and lay down another thin layer of resin And finish everything off with 800 wet grit. After this - layer or 2 of clear coat

As for the parts being to big - just TEST them out after first 2 layers of resin. once you sand down first time - just go and test them. And you will see all the places where they need to be timed / sanded...

To be honest - if you never did anything like this - it will be hard enouth to do such parts as interior for the first time...

Thanks Doggy, but I didnt want to get into details too much. I was gettign ready for work and I was on my phone. On a big surface the CF is layered straight after the first layer so it gives you room to play, but yes, on a small part like this, let the first layer to dry till it gets tacky but not sticking to your hands.
Make sure you use the right resin/epoxy and hardner ratio as well. I think on a 5:1 you need to leave it about 2-4 hours to get tacky. Have a separate test area so you dont touch the part to check whether is dry or not.

I think too many layers of resin could make the part look too big but each to their own. On the other hand, sanding down the part to an even surface is more important I reckon, and that also depends on the grit you're using. But yeah, 3 coats, sand down, and than clear coats should do the trick just fine.

[doggy]

Originally Posted by Hawk77FT

Thanks Doggy, but I didnt want to get into details too much. I was gettign ready for work and I was on my phone.

I think too many layers of resin could make the part look too big but each to their own. On the other hand, sanding down the part to an even surface is more important I reckon, and that also depends on the grit you're using. But yeah, 3 coats, sand down, and than clear coats should do the trick just fine.

One more thing I found that does wonders - once you sand down to even surface lets say using 220grit, just take very very soft drawing brush - bigger one - and brush light coat of resin on the sanded surface, just to cover as much sanding marks as possible - this way - you will not get sanding marks later on the run after clear coat (cuz resin doesn't sag as much as clear does then heated) and it will be easyer to sand donw with the last 800 wet grit

Too much resin will give not clear surface and in some places there will be too much resin - CF MIGHT look yellow'ish...

[Hawk77FT]

Originally Posted by doggy

One more thing I found that does wonders - once you sand down to even surface lets say using 220grit, just take very very soft drawing brush - bigger one - and brush light coat of resin on the sanded surface, just to cover as much sanding marks as possible - this way - you will not get sanding marks later on the run after clear coat (cuz resin doesn't sag as much as clear does then heated) and it will be easyer to sand donw with the last 800 wet grit

Too much resin will give not clear surface and in some places there will be too much resin - CF MIGHT look yellow'ish...

Hence I am not a big fan of having too many coats of resin. You can always throw in some bits to make the resin look a bit blue like the Zonda tricolore one
Now depending on the clear you're using: I would look for a polyurethane UV clear coat in a spray can so it does not interact with the resin.

[ichitaka05]

Man, reading the "how-to" is VERY helpful... but reconfirm me that, it's not for me. I don't have the patience. You have my full respect.

[Sutty]

@doggy @Hawk77FT

You guys are 'steely eyed missile men' no way I would attempt this.

[doggy]

Originally Posted by Hawk77FT

Hence I am not a big fan of having too many coats of resin. You can always throw in some bits to make the resin look a bit blue like the Zonda tricolore one
Now depending on the clear you're using: I would look for a polyurethane UV clear coat in a spray can so it does not interact with the resin.

No spray can! Stay away from single component clears! They are good for few months that's it...

What im using is ceramic based 2 component clear coat. Its as hard as resin, and its UV protective, and NO yellowing / no cracking with it!

And for people who never tried this - be prepared for massive itching, smell, and mess at first few times You need practice before you will get desired result

[doggy]

Originally Posted by Cody

Doggy, i would greatly appriciate any info on how you did your brake lights. I did my headlights the other day and want my brake lights to match, and here in south cali any tinted brakes is an instant ticket.

Also i want to give you props on your work thus far, the car looks very nice. Looking in it is obviously modded, but in a tasteful and pleasing way.

Also what would you reccomend practicing on before attempting the interior cf work? I want to get a look similar to yours, but im attempting to keep my car all black/whiteish gray. And cant exactly afford to mess up to often.
Any tips are greatly apriciated.

There's a good how-to here on the tails. I just used it to get my tails apart, but I did glued them a bit differently: used soldering gun to solder both plastic together - and then sealing cut line with hotglue gun. I will be doing my second set - so I will try and do a proper how-to on this soon.

As for the CF - firstly - buy small CF wrap kit (there's bunch of places to buy this from) and find a something you would want to wrap - pretty simple shape, something even from house hold items. And try on it Don't mess with car pieces straight - it will be expensive way to learn then

[doggy]

Originally Posted by Cody

okay, im blind because i have yet to find the diy and have been looking for a while :/, what did you search to find it?
An did you just melt the plastics together with the solder? and have you had any moisture problems?
i tried to bake the brakes like the headlights and ended up breaking the plastic so am now having to buy a new passanger side housing =(

Yes, I did used solder to weld both plastics together after cutting them. Nope, never had any moisture in them after black out.

Heres the DIY:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12312

[doggy]

Originally Posted by Cody

from the diy it is difficult to tell, but are any of the cuts visible when you ae looking from the outside in (other than the vanity piece)?? I dont want to do this and then be able to see all of my cut marks through the lens.

Also rouphly how much clearanc eis the between the black housing and the chrom reflector?? would hate to slice through it.

I think i am going to do it with a soldering iron instead of a dremel so that i can keep the decorative trunk piece. There is another DIY on that a page after thi DIY, found them last night.

You have to be careful on the bottom once cutting. Also - cut at the bottom need to be around 1inch from the glass - other way it will be visible. You can cut with dremel to the point where you will not be able to reach this place under the decorative piece - and use solder to cut under the decorative piece. Thats what I did.

[Hawk77FT]

Originally Posted by Cody

Okay how far away should i cut on top and sides?

I apriciate all the advice, Also i am skeptical about trying the carbon fiber myself, so would like to give you some business in return ( if the price is right). i messaged you in facebook, could you please message me how much it would cost for the ss square thing in white and cf interior in white?

CF in white? There is silver CF but white?

[SkAsphalt]

Originally Posted by Cody

Haha idk silver is close enouph white would be dope though

White, it is what's for dinner

[Hawk77FT]

Originally Posted by SkAsphalt

White, it is what's for dinner

too bad that's rigid CF. Silver would probably look nice too.
I have never digged the interior colour matching the exterior. It looks too rice, show car...but hey maybe I am just getting old.

[Hawk77FT]

Originally Posted by doggy

No spray can! Stay away from single component clears! They are good for few months that's it...

What im using is ceramic based 2 component clear coat. Its as hard as resin, and its UV protective, and NO yellowing / no cracking with it!

The ceramic 2 component clear coat can be transfered into a presurised spray can as well. Well, the atomisation might not be the same as if it comes out of gun with 300-3000 PSI but it is good enough for small surfaces. On a bigger surface, you need air gun for sure. All clear coats (urethane 2 components for automotive use) would have a UV protection (more or less effective depending on the money you spend on the clear/hardner).

[doggy]

Cody - please stop spamming this tread... If you read carefully - you will see that if not VENDOR - im not support to talk about prices and so on. And this tread isn't about pricing or DIY help one...

You have my email - which is on FB page - and you can mail me / get info there if you really needed.