05-14-2015, 03:36 PM | #239 | |
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2) Drone & Rasp are a component of header & exhaust wall thickness, and your exhaust's ability to cancel out high frequency waves. Cats eliminate drone, and proper resonators eliminate drone. The header is cheap thin wall. Without good resonators any header, especially a thin wall header will drone & rasp like mad. Your Topspeed, eBay, thin wall, poor resonated exhaust is the last thing in the world that I would expect to correctly manage drone. 3) You get what you pay for. Would I buy this header if I didn't already have one, yes. Would I expect it to perform the same as a header & exhaust 3-4 times the price, no.
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Last edited by Hyper4mance2k; 05-14-2015 at 04:07 PM. |
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05-14-2015, 04:03 PM | #240 | |
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I figured this was going to be difficult for the Nameless header when they announced the 3" flange to go with their 3" DP/OP making it more difficult to use other offerings. |
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05-14-2015, 06:47 PM | #241 | |
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[ame]http://youtu.be/Qcz-XJCMOUU[/ame] This is with a horribly restrictive 2.25" inlet - 2.5" outlet Ebay Topspeed Pro 1 overpipe, an Ebay Topspeed Pro 1 catless resonated front pipe, stock midpipe, and topspeed pro 1 axle-back dual exit muffler. My "Topspeed, eBay, thin wall, poor resonated exhaust" handles the drone just fine. Your either rubbing the frame, and/or your tune has too much AVCS overlap. Not to start a flame war, but it's your tune, dude. |
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05-14-2015, 07:08 PM | #242 |
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Someone should make oval shaped/flattened cross-section OP to fix that. After all, if aceheader managed to pass two pipes side by side in overpipe section for their header, there should be clearance to pass through for wider one, that will be both less restrictive AND have less rubbing/fitting issues vs one welded from round tubes.
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05-14-2015, 10:58 PM | #243 | |
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05-14-2015, 11:04 PM | #244 |
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Please don't ever correct me again. I wasn't addressing you. If I want to address you, I will call you out by name.
You have never been right when you have made something up to try and explain something you don't understand. Your exhaust will quiet down if you mess with cam timing. If it gets quieter, you can obviously eliminate drone. If your car is tuned correctly, which yours obviously is not, then drone is caused by exhaust wall thickness and resonance not tuned out by the resonators, or adequate wall thickness exhaust components. I have been building race cars longer than you have been alive.
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05-14-2015, 11:10 PM | #245 | |
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05-14-2015, 11:26 PM | #246 | |
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05-14-2015, 11:43 PM | #247 | |
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Yeah, the tune could (it does) have an affect on "drone", but you're addressing it the wrong way if you're editing the way the car runs to get rid of a noise that isn't an actual problem.
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05-15-2015, 12:58 AM | #248 | |
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05-15-2015, 01:03 AM | #249 | |
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And for those with YEARS of experience, if you think you know it all, then those years of experience haven't taught you a thing. Last edited by KoolBRZ; 05-15-2015 at 11:56 AM. |
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05-18-2015, 01:34 PM | #250 |
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Update. Having tried tunes that were 2 points lower, and 4 points lower, I can say that I found that the flat spot is less noticeable with the intake safe table modded to reduce overlap. See pics below;
I started with a customized UEL tune, (top pic) to find out whether it was intake or exhaust that needed modification. That showed me that the intake table actually needed to be changed to compensate for an exhaust modification!? Crazy, right. Then, just to be sure I wasn't overlooking the possibilities of shiv's EL tune. I copied the intake safe table from that, (2nd pic) and compared that as well. Turns out it works pretty good. It seemed better, in fact, then the UEL tune, except for a dreadful flat spot. With what I learned previously from the mods to the UEL tune, I felt sure I could get rid of the flat spot and keep the other advantages of the EL tune. So, I modded the EL tunes' safe table in the same areas I'd modded the UEL tune, and that's pic 3. This is the best tune I have so far for the PLM long tube header. |
05-18-2015, 02:46 PM | #251 | |
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05-19-2015, 12:09 AM | #252 | |
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With shiv cutting the write time in half it isn't too inconvenient to switch tunes. With the knowledge gained from driving and switching between tunes today I wrote 2 changes to the best tune. Small changes a little bit higher and a little bit lower then they were in the best tune help me to decide where I can make changes and how much in which direction. Having an automatic means it's not just about peak horsepower. Because I don't clutch, or even let off the throttle, between gears, the tune has to prevent hesitation after a shift. This is primarily to prevent annoying me, because after shift whiplash probably isn't harmful, but it is annoying. Smoothing out the power-band to eliminate as much of the flat spot as possible is also annoyance prevention, because the transmission loves to shift right between 3000 and 4000 RPMs in the absolute worst place possible. I usually shift manually because I get more response in the lower gears, but when I'm in stop and go traffic, or driving my wife around I'll use automatic mode. My wife doesn't like me to drive scary, see youtube video. [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fX_sQt3i2IQ"]YouTube[/ame] People drive really fast around here! Especially souped-up Prius owners. I would like to work with like-minded people to tune out the flat spot, and I'm open-minded about other peoples input. Come on, it isn't rocket science. Last edited by KoolBRZ; 05-19-2015 at 12:25 AM. |
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