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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous


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Old 02-11-2019, 02:50 AM   #2969
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My leak was small enough that my idle was not much higher than normal. The car would very slightly stumble when accelerating under very light throttle.
Just logged mine for the first time and on cold start had ~23% STFT. So looks like I do have a small leak in my bypass valve like you. I do have the small silicone hose per your recommendation, I guess I should install that first to see if it helps. Or are the valve bodies themselves typically the leak location?
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Old 02-11-2019, 10:26 AM   #2970
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The valve bodies are generally regarded as the leak source, but again even with a new one once it was on the car the connection made a leak.

If this is a new install I would make sure you have everything clamped and if you have a catch can make sure that isn't leaking.
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Old 02-17-2019, 12:42 AM   #2971
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Any one know the belt length for the 2.75" pulley or the 2.65" pulley.
Second anyone know how to do the math to calculate the speed the super changer is spinning I don't want to over spin the super changer with too small of a pulley at 9k.
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Old 02-22-2019, 11:45 AM   #2972
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Fixed!

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Originally Posted by toast View Post
What kind of 'trouble'? Are you using the Edelbrock tune or did you go with Delicious?

I found that after each Delicious update the car still ran like garbage for a few days when trying to smoothly leave a stop. I felt like I was learning to drive all over again because the dead pedal that occurs after a reset gets compounded by the fact that the instant you go a little too far with the throttle the bypass valve starts to open and the power ramps up very fast. In my case it takes about 4-5 days of daily driving before all the learning fills in the various trouble spots from 1500-3000 rpm. Zach said that the 13-14 manual cars were the worst for the dead pedal as well.
Sorry for slow response but I wanted to make absolutely sure everything was fixed before I gave an update. TL-DR : It was a bad custom tune. With the tune replaced, my car runs great now.

Regarding the original issues, FTs were high at idle, usually around 21% and the car ran rough. It would bog down and stall when giving it gas to take off from a dead start. It evened out at cruise and the FTs would get considerably better but the car would break up and give me crazy logs if I went WOT. Pedal dead zone and feeling the ECU working through re-learning everything was definitely a thing that was present, but I'm used to that from having flashed my car quite a few times in the past. There was way more going on than the usual quirks of a re-flash. About five weeks of my car sitting useless in my driveway, logging and re-flashing a few times for my tuner, many hours of me checking every single thing I could myself, and three trips to two different garages to verify that I wasn't missing something all got me nowhere. Mechanically, the car seemed solid and the Edelbrock install looked perfect.

Eventually, as I used the weeks of not driving my car to research more about tuning and what to look for in how an ECU thinks (I knew virtually nothing when I started, but now I know slightly more than virtually nothing), I started to notice some things that had me doubting the custom tune that I was using. I ended up switching over to Delicious and Zach hooked me up with a solid tune. Even the initial tune was leaps and bounds ahead of what I was using and now that everything is dialed in, the car runs amazingly well. Thanks to Delicious and Zach, this story has a happy ending.
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Old 02-24-2019, 03:30 AM   #2973
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I'm getting a loud knocking sound when in 4th-6th below 2krpm and light throttle. Logs don't indicate any knock detected, so what could it be? The header heat shield bouncing off of the skid plate? Valve slap? DI seal failure? This wasn't happening before the EBSC got installed.
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Old 02-24-2019, 08:46 AM   #2974
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I'm getting a loud knocking sound when in 4th-6th below 2krpm and light throttle. Logs don't indicate any knock detected, so what could it be? The header heat shield bouncing off of the skid plate? Valve slap? DI seal failure? This wasn't happening before the EBSC got installed.
You are lugging the engine

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Old 02-24-2019, 02:21 PM   #2975
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You are lugging the engine

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Thanks. This is on an AT on really light throttle. Shouldn't it not happen during normal operation of the TCU? Or should my tune be updated somehow?
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Old 02-24-2019, 02:54 PM   #2976
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Thanks. This is on an AT on really light throttle. Shouldn't it not happen during normal operation of the TCU? Or should my tune be updated somehow?
I haven't driven an 86 with the auto. Are you manually holding the gear with the paddle shifters? Does this happen while idle? How close is the SC pulley to the alternator? Any signs of contact there?
You might also have part of a harness hanging loose near the SC pulley. All signs point to lugging, imo. I hope someone else can chime in.


From personal experience, if I lug my engine (MT), there is noticeable movement in the engine bay, and I can hear faint squealing from the supercharger belt. That's why I try to keep the revs above 2k.


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Old 02-24-2019, 10:23 PM   #2977
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I haven't driven an 86 with the auto. Are you manually holding the gear with the paddle shifters? Does this happen while idle? How close is the SC pulley to the alternator? Any signs of contact there?
You might also have part of a harness hanging loose near the SC pulley. All signs point to lugging, imo. I hope someone else can chime in.


From personal experience, if I lug my engine (MT), there is noticeable movement in the engine bay, and I can hear faint squealing from the supercharger belt. That's why I try to keep the revs above 2k.


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Happens in normal AT mode. It shifts into 6th by 35 mph and ends up at 1.5krpm. Does not happen in idle.

No signs of wear anywhere from what I can see. Alt is close to SC pulley, but stays clear. No harnessing in the way.

If it's pre-igniting, wouldn't it show up in logs?
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Old 02-26-2019, 10:35 AM   #2978
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Anyone else find that with the Edelbrock installed this car is a bitch to drive smoothly when it is cold? It's fine pulling out of the driveway when it has just started running but once the temp needle starts to move up until it gets past the low temp bar on the gauge it bucks and snorts from every stop sign, no matter how smooth I try to be with the clutch.
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Old 02-26-2019, 12:17 PM   #2979
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Toast, how cold are we talking?
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Old 02-26-2019, 03:49 PM   #2980
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Anyone else find that with the Edelbrock installed this car is a bitch to drive smoothly when it is cold? It's fine pulling out of the driveway when it has just started running but once the temp needle starts to move up until it gets past the low temp bar on the gauge it bucks and snorts from every stop sign, no matter how smooth I try to be with the clutch.
Yeah, toast, it's fairly cold here 20-40F in the mornings and I noticed that as well. I had an ACT XT street clutch put on at the same time, so I was assuming it was the new clutch. Figured it was slipping a bit when cold and grabbing more when warm, causing me to jump and lurch. It's taking me time, but I'm slowing getting a handle on it. I'm basically having to re-learn how to drive my car. It wants to take off like a rocket every time I let out the clutch.
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Old 02-26-2019, 05:31 PM   #2981
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Toast, how cold are we talking?
30-40 degrees. Since it is fine right after startup it feels like the cold temp enrichment is fine initially and then it unloads too fast, like it needs more fuel correction for a longer time. Once the car is warm it is fine (it does want to take off, but once warm I can compensate by feathering the pedal - that is impossible to do when cold).
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Old 02-28-2019, 08:14 PM   #2982
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Anyone have any stock parts that I can borrow so that I can put my car back to stock I and get my valve spring recall completed? I’m an idiot and don’t have my stock parts.
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