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Old 02-02-2020, 10:34 PM   #3375
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Speaking of bypass valves, im at about 5k miles since install and starting to have weird idle issues directly after cold starts. After letting the cold start idle stabilize after 30 seconds, Idle drops to 500, shoots back up to 2000 and then either goes back to 500 then normalizes or it will stall. Stalled like 3 times at a light leaving work. No check engine light but ST fuel trim was like -20%. No error codes. Tried blowing into the rubber hose going to the bypass valve and felt resistance, though i havent tried that pinch test yet.
The pinch test is easier. Sounds 99% like a bypass failure. Again.

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Old 02-06-2020, 11:53 AM   #3376
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Is there any long term solution for the bypass valve issue in the pipeline?

I've eyed this kit for as long as it's been on the market and as is, there's no way that I would touch this kit until the bypass valves are no longer a concern.
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Old 02-06-2020, 03:27 PM   #3377
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Is there any long term solution for the bypass valve issue in the pipeline?

I've eyed this kit for as long as it's been on the market and as is, there's no way that I would touch this kit until the bypass valves are no longer a concern.
I'm roughly in the same boat... thinking very seriously about the Edelbrock, but I rely on my car as a daily driver and could not tolerate the multiple failures a year that some people report.

I know one user (@toast?) claims to have solved the problem by tapping the brake booster line so the actuator only sees vacuum, not boost... but I am very curious if others have duplicated his success.
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Old 02-07-2020, 10:02 AM   #3378
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Some of us have had complaints about the performance of the car leaving a stop in first gear. Especially when cold. If you try and feed in gas while simultaneously letting out the clutch (as one does when driving a manual) you will sometimes get a little stumble in rpms and then a fast overshoot as it recovers. Makes you feel like you can't drive a stick. Last night I verified this is entirely due to the action of the bypass valve. With even light throttle application the valve begins to move, so when you go to 20-25% throttle to leave a stop the valve closes a significant amount, the engine registers extra air but the plenum is not really stuffed with air and the car goes rich for a beat. I removed the bypass valve actuator and held the valve open with a zip tie and this behavior totally went away.

Now that I know that I'm going to get back into my electronic valve actuation project. The last obstacle was how to reliably use cable actuation for the valve since I was thinking I would have to have the cable push to get the valve open. I've realized all I need to do is reverse the direction of motion. I will spring load the valve closed and run the actuator cable in from the front and have the linear actuator pull when it is time to get boost. Going on a ski trip next week, but I'm diving in hard when I get back.
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Old 02-07-2020, 10:33 AM   #3379
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Am I reading the specs for the TMAP sensor for this kit correctly? There is only 1 output signal and temperature information is in resistance and pressure is in voltage?

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pr...oducts_id/1721
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Old 02-07-2020, 10:41 AM   #3380
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Looks like it. They use a Negative Temperature Coefficient resistor to indicate temperature which is nonlinear.
Pressure supposedly linear and a voltage output.
I'm interested in this project. I'm an EE/controls engineer.

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Old 02-07-2020, 01:35 PM   #3381
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Ah, no then I wasn't reading it right. I thought the temp and pressure were somehow encoded on one output. The NTC line is the temp; That is great. Any idea if it is measured between the line and ground or line and 5v?

Since moving the MAP sensor to a separate box that isn't affected by the runner resonances I'm worried that I won't get good IAT measurements. I want to take the temp signal from the sensor in the runner and the pressure from the sensor in the closed box.
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Old 02-07-2020, 01:56 PM   #3382
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I would assume it would be between ground and the ntc output but you could easily measure it with a multimeter to be sure. There is a table of temp vs resistance. Measure at room temp then throw it in the freezer for a while and measure it again, or any way to get a known temp change that you can reference to that chart. Even body heat would be enough to see the change. The rest of the measurement circuitry must be in the ECU, probably a resistor divider. Most signals end up as a voltage into an analog to digital converter at some point.

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Old 02-07-2020, 01:58 PM   #3383
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Out of curiosity where did you move the MAP sensor to? I have thought about doing something with that, or even some sort of snubber on the sensor to smooth stuff out. Just end up with some sort of phase delay, but I'm sure a little doesn't hurt.

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Old 02-07-2020, 02:07 PM   #3384
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Old 02-07-2020, 02:09 PM   #3385
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Also, while I had my actuator off...

For anyone removing and reinstalling the actuator the nylock nuts on it are 8-24 nuts. The one on the left comes with the kit, the one on the right is from Home Depot. Having a lot more thread to engage should help with stripping the threads on the shaft. You don't have to make them very tight just snug.

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Old 02-14-2020, 06:38 PM   #3386
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Damned MAP sensor is reading pegged to maximum. bought new MAP sensor and same issue. ugh
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Old 02-15-2020, 01:10 PM   #3387
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Pull out the Edelbrock extension harness that goes to the MAP and check for continuity across all the pins.
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Old 02-15-2020, 01:31 PM   #3388
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Pull out the Edelbrock extension harness that goes to the MAP and check for continuity across all the pins.
Everything checked out fine unfortunately, going to plug it back in and see if maybe something was loose

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