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Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing. |
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06-24-2019, 04:47 PM | #29 |
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$180+tax labour to replace pads+rotors.
I asked him since it's all off already if replacing calipers would be included, guess not "The calipers will require some additional time, with bleeding the brake system it will be an additional $112.50+tax". Guess there's no advantage to doing it all at once after all then. |
06-24-2019, 06:29 PM | #30 | |
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Calipers are also like $250 each and aren't a wear item... zero reason to replace them unless something has failed on one, and then you'd still only replace the one that was failed. IMO, unless you just want to go to the dealership and pay the premium I'd find a friend or other shop that'll actually tell you what needs replacing and what is fine.
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06-24-2019, 08:39 PM | #31 | |
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Since you don't seem to be comprehending, I suggest you follow ol @wparsons advice and go to an independent brake shop for a brake inspection and have done what they suggest. humfrz |
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06-24-2019, 10:11 PM | #32 | |
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also, any shop is going to have markup on items. most importantly, this means that if anything were to go wrong, the shop would be fully responsible for the parts that they supplied. while the risk of bad parts is generally low from any source, they do happen, and for someone like the OP, who isn't extremely mechanically inclined, that extra cost is likely money well spent for warranty if anything were to go wrong. it's always important to not only look at the raw cost, but also what a slightly higher cost gets you--not everything that costs more is a ripoff. in this case, the extra cost is due to shifting the liability from the vehicle owner supplying the parts to the repair shop. i say $130 each for rotors and pads isn't too bad.
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06-24-2019, 11:17 PM | #33 |
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When I do brake work myself, I always replace the rotors and pads together. In the grand scheme of things, rotors are relatively cheap, especially compared to my time and hatred of doing brake work. Plus, I have no way to machine rotors and putting new pads on worn rotors will just wear out the new pads faster.
If you have a shop do the work and they're comfortable machining the rotors, then changing the rotors every second pad change works fine. To reiterate, just in case it needs saying again... CALIPERS are not really wear items. Replace them if they are sticking or leaking (or rebuild them if you're cheap and like frustration), otherwise just clean'em up, make sure you lube any guides/slide pins, and forget about'em.
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06-25-2019, 08:32 AM | #34 | |
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Upfront edit:. Ignore me, I missed the "+tax labour" in the quoted post. Probably because it's spelled wrong. Is it just me or do those prices seem rather low. I don't live in Canada, but the cheapest pads and rotors I could find on rockauto came out to about $110 US plus tax and shipping. Distribution costs money plus mark-up, and that doesn't include fluid yet. I suppose with labor $180 is possible, but the brakes probably won't feel the same with economy-grade parts. The dealership would use original equipment parts. |
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06-25-2019, 09:17 AM | #35 |
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From the pictures, I'd replace pads, and rotors.
If you have a local mechanic, or even a friend who is mechanically inclined, just buy these and ask him to put them on. $130 for all the parts you need, just doesn't include labor. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...504002&jsn=384 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...sn=383&jsn=383
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06-25-2019, 10:32 AM | #36 | ||
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I think you caught it, but the $180 is just the labour, before tax. Parts for just the rotors was over $500. Quote:
Rockauto isn't worth it up here unless you're driving across the border to pick it up. I was going to order my rotors from there but shipping was over $100cdn just for the 4 rotors. When I added calipers it was like $250 in shipping.
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06-25-2019, 10:40 AM | #37 | |
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I've overheard first hand many times a service advisor telling a customer over the phone that their car needs a full brake job before the car has even been pulled into a bay or put on a hoist. The best one was when the service advisor was asked by the technician if he wanted him to pull it in to check and he said "nah, we'll just tell them it needs pads and rotors all around". My mom was also told by a dealership that her car needed new pads and rotors all around when there was a rock stuck in the dust shield. The written estimate even states that replacing the REAR rotors is required to stop a noise from the front left wheel. If you read what I said in a later post, it's to have it checkout out by someone else before throwing $1000+ at it unless he just wants to pay the dealership premium for peace of mind. It's $130 each rotor (before tax), not rotors and pads. My front rotors were ~$70 each and rears were ~$40 each. 140% markup isn't a little bit.
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06-25-2019, 02:54 PM | #38 | |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Lynxis For This Useful Post: | wparsons (06-25-2019) |
07-25-2019, 06:46 PM | #39 |
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So I got the new pads & rotors put on, the ones from ft86motorsports
I really thought replacing them (especially the pads) would resolve an issue I was having for the past few months when I would slow/stop at under 5km/h. It makes this sound: https://vocaroo.com/i/s1xvYaRSaLZK It's actually much louder in person, and I can even make it start to squeak if I really try and take my foot off the brake pedal or put it on the pedal very slowly. It's worse in rain. It only happens again, when I'm braking under 5km/h at very very slow speed, almost not even moving. Almost any time I take my foot off or put it on the pedal. Did the people that installed them miss something? I shall mention they inaccurately quoted me ($180+tax) and then when I got me told me that was PER axle, so I compromised and did 180+another 40 out of my pocket, thus getting a "deal". Any suggestions on how I should proceed before I bring it back to them Tuesday? |
07-26-2019, 10:22 AM | #41 | |
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Is the car an automatic? What noise exactly are you talking about in the video? The thumps, or the slight buzz?
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07-30-2019, 05:23 PM | #42 |
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After bringing it back from the mechanic shop (reputable place), they said there's "too much space" and something about the brake pads not making contact properly.. which is what is causing this, yadda yadda. Now remember, I went to them telling them that the noise started after they installed the pads/rotors. The issue I was having (thumping sound like in the video) was happening even before they installed these pads/rotors, and continued happening after. So, no difference. Making them believe it started happening only after they installed the new stuff.. I was hoping they'd do a quick fix to the actual problem, instead they tried telling me it's these pads! I left very quickly lol. Can't Trust Anybody!
Now I'm back to square one not sure what to do or where to go , didn't trust mechanics before this.. TL;DR: Thumping brake issue old pads/rotors when coming to full stop/release off pedal --> Replace old pads/rotors --> Still hear sound, but leave out the part that it was happening before the replacement implying new pads/rotors is causing it (but they're mechanics, they should know what's working and not working) --> them confirming they're dishonest or don't diagnose properly or make assumptions and tell me I need to put on different pads even though it was happening before these pads... Last edited by becausethexo; 07-30-2019 at 05:46 PM. |
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