Full throttle Electric Supercharger Build Thread

[BlueDubbinTDI]

4.7 PSI from this thing?! Subscribed!!!!

[Robftss]

Originally Posted by neutron256

@Robftss since it seems like a lot of us have different ideas about how to improve/modify this have you considered selling a 'Tuner' kit that just had the compressor and motor at a discounted price?

Just a thought.

Presently the compressor head and electronics are matched. Thermal, voltage, rpm and load limits in the controller provide a relationship with the brushless motor to achieve safe, efficient operation.

[mid_life_crisis]

Originally Posted by neutron256

@Robftss since it seems like a lot of us have different ideas about how to improve/modify this have you considered selling a 'Tuner' kit that just had the compressor and motor at a discounted price?

Just a thought.

Originally Posted by Robftss

Presently the compressor head and electronics are matched. Thermal, voltage, rpm and load limits in the controller provide a relationship with the brushless motor to achieve safe, efficient operation.

Someone who's more concerned with putting out a safe, reliable product than making a buck.
@Robftss did you ride in on a unicorn stallion?

[Grantmac]

Originally Posted by Calum

Grant, that is brilliant! Do you have any plans to take it beyond the design phase? I'd love to see that come to market.

I'm more of an "ideas" rather than "plans" guy
I tried to learn CAD once and it didn't go so well. I keep being told that Sketch-up is decent and I should give it a try but computers aren't really my thing.
I was looking at adding it to a relatively small power diesel and I wasn't that worried about intake restriction.

Look at the secondary venturi in a big carb. Something like that within a straight section of tubing would likely do the job. Or even a slightly flared section of tubing if you were worried about flow.

Or find an old side-draft carb then wire it open, plug everything but the main-jet, remove the needle and pressure feed the float bowl (floats removed). Only problem might be finding one large enough to not be a restriction since most of those applications were ITB.

Of course if you are willing to pressurize the tank then you really don't need much for a pump. Even a washer pump will do. It's not like this is a high-boost application.

-Grant

[neutron256]

Originally Posted by Grantmac

I'm more of an "ideas" rather than "plans" guy
I tried to learn CAD once and it didn't go so well. I keep being told that Sketch-up is decent and I should give it a try but computers aren't really my thing.
I was looking at adding it to a relatively small power diesel and I wasn't that worried about intake restriction.

Look at the secondary venturi in a big carb. Something like that within a straight section of tubing would likely do the job. Or even a slightly flared section of tubing if you were worried about flow.

Or find an old side-draft carb then wire it open, plug everything but the main-jet, remove the needle and pressure feed the float bowl (floats removed). Only problem might be finding one large enough to not be a restriction since most of those applications were ITB.

Of course if you are willing to pressurize the tank then you really don't need much for a pump. Even a washer pump will do. It's not like this is a high-boost application.

-Grant

Too funny because when you fist explained it I was thinking isn't that basically just a carburetor.

[jamesm]

Originally Posted by Grantmac

I'm more of an "ideas" rather than "plans" guy
I tried to learn CAD once and it didn't go so well. I keep being told that Sketch-up is decent and I should give it a try but computers aren't really my thing.
I was looking at adding it to a relatively small power diesel and I wasn't that worried about intake restriction.

Look at the secondary venturi in a big carb. Something like that within a straight section of tubing would likely do the job. Or even a slightly flared section of tubing if you were worried about flow.

Or find an old side-draft carb then wire it open, plug everything but the main-jet, remove the needle and pressure feed the float bowl (floats removed). Only problem might be finding one large enough to not be a restriction since most of those applications were ITB.

Of course if you are willing to pressurize the tank then you really don't need much for a pump. Even a washer pump will do. It's not like this is a high-boost application.

-Grant

Sketch up is alright, but its super basic to the point that a more flexible tool is actually easier to use. I'd recommend you try out autodesk inventor. I had been using solidworks at work for a couple years when we switched over, and I find it a lot easier to make multipart assemblies (and do cool things with them) in inventor than in solidworks. Solidworks still has better tools for building individual parts though IMHO.

I believe autodesk has a free version aimed at DIY types.

[TIE Pilot]

Here's an article about pump-less meth kit.

http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.c...icle_info.html




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[zohare]

Originally Posted by Wild Weasel

Technically, it would provide a little control but I have my doubts as to how noticeable it would be. The difference in the restriction of the TB between 75% and WOT is probably somewhat negligible compared to the difference in power you're going to get when the FTS kicks in. I think the bigger advantage will be simply in the feel of it. You won't have to feel like you're mashing the pedal to the floor to get the power boost you want.

OK, so I'm only on like page 39/1000000asdfjklashdf so If this is answered later, I apologize. I think it's a big deal for us AT guys because of the shift points. If I WANT the low end torque, and the sluggish bla and unlocked torque converter of AT non sport in D mode, its just nice to have that diesel style application of torque? Wow this sounds so dumb, don't know how to explain it better though. Ok, so zipping around, I want to hold about 4k rpm and the car accelerates. TCs allow that, it sort of rubberbands. With the car N/A, it makes noise, but doesn't really accelerate. I love the relentless low end surge of turbo'd AT cars. I know it's odd, but diesels, and I drive an F150 ecoboost from time to time, and it's just fun. The f150 in particular is more fun to keep at say 60-70% throttle, below 4k. (scale that from a 5500rpm redline to 7500rpm, and we're talking below 5.5-6k) I just don't want to have to be in TC locked, or jumping gears trying to get to power, since I want forced induction specifically so I DON'T need to jump gears all the time. I mean, simple solution, I could just punch it in manual mode.

Also, I'm in CO Springs.... SO about 6200ft. This car is SLOW at this altitude. Especially off the line. The AT really wasn't bad in Tucson, I could still get sideways from a stop making a right turn or whatever, spun up to only 3k rpm. Now? almost impossible on pavement without have balls much bigger than mine, and using momentum. Just drove to Salt lake, and even there, HUGE difference in low end power. This freaking intake manifold man... SUBARU!!! FIX IT. anyhow. Would the part throttle, ug, forgot what you guys called it, My brain is overload with awesomeness, been reading for a few hours now. But the pulsing to maintain Atm., would that be able to negate the effects of altitude? could it be adjusted a bit higher to see that it does?
@fenton , @Robftss

And lastly, Since flooring below 3000 rpm can't be done on stock tune... does this completely screw me having an auto essentially? Haha. The torque possible at 2200rpm (about where the auto stall is) is immensely intriguing!! I wouldn't have to wait 5 seconds to go anywhere.... I can keep up with other N/A cars in this area (further supporting how shitty altitude is -.- Took a 4.6 Mustang to about 105 from 50) but really off the line, I can floor it, and other "normal" cars just walk away, that aren't even racing... No joke, I seriously was thinking of electric power after being beat to about 35 by an Effin PRIUS. HELP ME.

Thanks a ton for the new product and choice!

[fenton]

Originally Posted by zohare

OK, so I'm only on like page 39/1000000asdfjklashdf so If this is answered later, I apologize. I think it's a big deal for us AT guys because of the shift points. If I WANT the low end torque, and the sluggish bla and unlocked torque converter of AT non sport in D mode, its just nice to have that diesel style application of torque? Wow this sounds so dumb, don't know how to explain it better though. Ok, so zipping around, I want to hold about 4k rpm and the car accelerates. TCs allow that, it sort of rubberbands. With the car N/A, it makes noise, but doesn't really accelerate. I love the relentless low end surge of turbo'd AT cars. I know it's odd, but diesels, and I drive an F150 ecoboost from time to time, and it's just fun. The f150 in particular is more fun to keep at say 60-70% throttle, below 4k. (scale that from a 5500rpm redline to 7500rpm, and we're talking below 5.5-6k) I just don't want to have to be in TC locked, or jumping gears trying to get to power, since I want forced induction specifically so I DON'T need to jump gears all the time. I mean, simple solution, I could just punch it in manual mode.

Also, I'm in CO Springs.... SO about 6200ft. This car is SLOW at this altitude. Especially off the line. The AT really wasn't bad in Tucson, I could still get sideways from a stop making a right turn or whatever, spun up to only 3k rpm. Now? almost impossible on pavement without have balls much bigger than mine, and using momentum. Just drove to Salt lake, and even there, HUGE difference in low end power. This freaking intake manifold man... SUBARU!!! FIX IT. anyhow. Would the part throttle, ug, forgot what you guys called it, My brain is overload with awesomeness, been reading for a few hours now. But the pulsing to maintain Atm., would that be able to negate the effects of altitude? could it be adjusted a bit higher to see that it does?
@fenton , @Robftss

And lastly, Since flooring below 3000 rpm can't be done on stock tune... does this completely screw me having an auto essentially? Haha. The torque possible at 2200rpm (about where the auto stall is) is immensely intriguing!! I wouldn't have to wait 5 seconds to go anywhere.... I can keep up with other N/A cars in this area (further supporting how shitty altitude is -.- Took a 4.6 Mustang to about 105 from 50) but really off the line, I can floor it, and other "normal" cars just walk away, that aren't even racing... No joke, I seriously was thinking of electric power after being beat to about 35 by an Effin PRIUS. HELP ME.

Thanks a ton for the new product and choice!

You have to go wot for the system to engage. Yes Drag reduction will help a bit but it references atmospheric pressure to match... so it would match the shity altitude and performance.

I'm intrigued to see how this will work on a auto. It should be pretty seem less. Want to go faster, go wot and you get a quick gear change and your off.

If you want to roll around like a diesel car would you need to lock in gear and just go wot everywhere, you would have a nice surge of torque non stop and is actually surprisingly smooth. Keep in mind with that much torque you will be breaking the speed limit very quickly even if leaving the revs low.

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[Toma]

Originally Posted by mr_m

Here's an article about pump-less meth kit.

http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.c...icle_info.html

Attachment 48613


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1400 $... omg. Someone is on crack.

[zohare]

Originally Posted by fenton

You have to go wot for the system to engage. Yes Drag reduction will help a bit but it references atmospheric pressure to match... so it would match the shity altitude and performance.

I'm intrigued to see how this will work on a auto. It should be pretty seem less. Want to go faster, go wot and you get a quick gear change and your off.

If you want to roll around like a diesel car would you need to lock in gear and just go wot everywhere, you would have a nice surge of torque non stop and is actually surprisingly smooth. Keep in mind with that much torque you will be breaking the speed limit very quickly even if leaving the revs low.

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Hahaha not SOO concerned about that. Thanks for the fast reply. Yeah it'd be fast as hell with the auto... I'm curious with taller gears, and seamless torque how it'd drive. On one hand, other than from a stop, I don't think I'd have to worry about a below 3k CEL because the kickdown, and if I'm driving in M than I'm not at 3k rpm.... Really want to try this, I wish I was closer. I think the AT is going to prove to be really strong. All the FI AT guys have had no issues, and for being N/A I've been plain mean to mine, and it's fine. You guys should find an AT tester. I'd love to, but I'm sure I'm also not the first to volunteer. Note: I am more intelligent than I appear, but I've been on the road since 7am. (I seriously DRIVE my car, so as a tester, not a bad option?) Sweet product though, I can't wait to see the final release, I'm definitely down. I'd probably see what I could do with UniChip and this, I think they'd make a pretty cool budget outta the box type deal. I mean off the showroom floor, you could drop the two in, and off you go!

[sw20kosh]

I wouldn't worry about charge temp at 4.7 psi on a centrifugal compressor.

The meth will allow more timing though so you will make power there.

[fenton]

Originally Posted by sw20kosh

I wouldn't worry about charge temp at 4.7 psi on a centrifugal compressor.

The meth will allow more timing though so you will make power there.

Ya I wouldn't expect much other than its increased octane rating. But 15 to 20 HP would be worth it if the price was right

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[sw20kosh]

Originally Posted by fenton

Ya I wouldn't expect much other than its increased octane rating. But 15 to 20 HP would be worth it if the price was right

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4

Check my build thread in my sig for the system I am using. It is working well.

The 400 cc/min flow rate I am using on the twin screw is allowing for 3-4 more degrees of timing advance.

The problem with this simple inexpensive system is that I must keep it off until boost is at 4-5 psi which translates to about 3.5k rpms WOT. If it comes on sooner the engine loses power and "bogs" untill the airflow gets high enough. I assume the spark is being quenched by the water concentration.

Since this ESC makes 4.7 psi instantly I see you having the same problem with a boost switch or a WOT switch.

You can spend 200 more $ on a MAF based progressive controller if it turns out you are quenching the spark in the lower rpms.