$600 Brake retrofit, Cadillac ATS brembos, STI rotors.

[gtslow]

Originally Posted by ryoma

it is kind of helpful. figure out the offset on the stock wheels and add 20 to it. then you'll know a rough minimum offset needed. obviously other factors need to be considered as well such as whether or not the spokes curve, etc etc

He's posted it 3 times in this thread.

[Tokay444]

Yet people still ask...
Adding a 20mm spacer +53 offset nets you a +33 offset.

[Cockatoo]

Dont know why people are still looking at this setup, RR Racing is the best value

[gtslow]

Originally Posted by Tokay444

Yet people still ask...
Adding a 20mm spacer +53 offset nets you a +33 offset.

There is more at play than just offset and I'll say it again that your response isn't helpful. I'll spell out why it isn't because you don't seem to get it or are enjoying trolling this thread. The sizing of the caliper itself means that it may clear the barrel of some 17" wheels but the spokes may hit the caliper. Different wheels have different spoke designs, hence why people may want to know what specific wheels will clear this caliper.

[turbocat]

Originally Posted by Cockatoo

Dont know why people are still looking at this setup, RR Racing is the best value

It depends what your goals are.

If all out track machine, RR is hard to pass up for the low cost of entry.

The OEM Brembo ATS caliper swap fits a niche that falls into the sti brembo category. It provides oem reliability, a look people are going for, larger than stock rotor/heat sink.

[Cockatoo]

Originally Posted by turbocat

It depends what your goals are.

If all out track machine, RR is hard to pass up for the low cost of entry.

The OEM Brembo ATS caliper swap fits a niche that falls into the sti brembo category. It provides oem reliability, a look people are going for, larger than stock rotor/heat sink.

And that all sounds good, until you realize in order to fit the caliper adapter you have to modify your OEM parts, kinda defeats the purpose of using an adapter if it doesn't really "adapt"...

[Tokay444]

Originally Posted by gtslow

There is more at play than just offset and I'll say it again that your response isn't helpful. I'll spell out why it isn't because you don't seem to get it or are enjoying trolling this thread. The sizing of the caliper itself means that it may clear the barrel of some 17" wheels but the spokes may hit the caliper. Different wheels have different spoke designs, hence why people may want to know what specific wheels will clear this caliper.

Put it this way, you're not going to get a template for this brake setup unless you make it yourself. Knowing that they fit the stock wheels with a 20mm spacer is extremely helpful, in that now you have a crude set of confines to compare other wheels to.
I'm sorry if you failed to see that originally.

[gtslow]

Originally Posted by Tokay444

Put it this way, you're not going to get a template for this brake setup unless you make it yourself. Knowing that they fit the stock wheels with a 20mm spacer is extremely helpful, in that now you have a crude set of confines to compare other wheels to.
I'm sorry if you failed to see that originally.

LOL cool story bro. Just keep trying to justify your rudeness.

[Tokay444]

And now I'm rude?
Whatever man.

[turbocat]

Originally Posted by Cockatoo

And that all sounds good, until you realize in order to fit the caliper adapter you have to modify your OEM parts, kinda defeats the purpose of using an adapter if it doesn't really "adapt"...

I totally understand your point of view about drilling the spindles. It was the same view I've had for the past year trying to decide which BBK to buy. I' was looking at a bunch of nice BBKs. All very track oriented. Some with really great testing and easy fitment. I went back and forth over easy bolt on race setup, or More OEM-like setup that required drilling metal. I even mention my concerns in this thread a page or two back.

I like an OEM Plus style of modification with my builds. I'm always cost conscious. I'll pay premium if the parts fit all my needs. Most of the time I find parts have pluses and minuses. I wanted STI Brembos but they had a few problems I did't like. I considered RR, Essex, StopTech, Brembo, Innovative Z06 swap. I liked the ATS swap option for my goals.

RR/Wilwood brakes are affordable, light, easy to fit, and race ready. Great! So is an Essex Kit, just more money and more benefits than RR's kit. I could go on with comparisons, but you get the idea.

ATS Brembo swap is a legit answer to STI Brembos, that have a lot of the OEM benefits I want. I understand the limitations of tracking an OEM style caliper. I also understand the downsides of running race parts on the street. Not my first Rodeo.

I'm willing to sacrifice my Stock spindle/brake mounting knowing once I buy these brakes I don't intend to replace them with some other brand. If I find its not a great option over the long haul, I'll buy another set of spindles and go from there. Not concerned about it.

I want my car to be a good road car that can handle all the elements including the occasional salty road. Maybe an occasional HPDE. I'm basically building the BRZ STI that I couldn't buy off the shelf from Subaru. In that train of thought, I'm trying to do things in that OEM Plus way. Modification is almost always a compromise. Good luck with your car, the RR setup is very nice.

[churchx]

You mention OEM/salty roads, and then eg. BBKs like Essex without dust boots from salt salt and you seem not concerned with possible non OEM brake bias change due other car brake retrofit. OEM, eh?

[Tokay444]

There is less than a 5% change in brake bias which is near as makes no difference. All but the most discerning professional race drivers wouldn't even be able to tell the difference.

[sickmint79]

Originally Posted by Tokay444

There is less than a 5% change in brake bias which is near as makes no difference. All but the most discerning professional race drivers wouldn't even be able to tell the difference.

i recently wrote an article on this comparing a bunch of kits - http://sickmint79.kinja.com/ats-and-...brz-1786142903

i don't understand the dismissal of bias given that a lot of r&d and testing goes into getting it right. and we are talking about brakes here. do people spend money on heavy wheels, crappy all seasons, and make their cars perform worse all the time? yes. but i find that particularly egregious when done so with brakes. why pay money for an upgrade that is really a downgrade?

the calculations i had resulted in the OEM bias of 0.697 going to ATS bias of 0.738. 0.738-0.697 is 0.041. 0.041 / 0.697 = 5.88% deviation from stock more forward. in terms of Front:Rear ratio, 2.3 to 2.8.

this is audi 2001 s4 data, but look how large a swing "only" 5.88% of a change can make moving 0.5 along the F:R ratio.



at least with heavy wheels maybe someone is naive about how that stuff works. but with brakes, people knowingly dismiss that the bias is off based on arbitrarily deciding 5% is a problem or not. something 5% off in your engine blows it up. how is anyone deciding that 5% can/should be ignored or not?

would a 10% swing suffice? that would be 0.7667 forward or 0.6273 rear. or for F:R, 3.29 and 1.68. it's "only 10%" but it's starting to reach the extremes of both ends of the stoptech chart.

[Tokay444]

Use a different pad compound in the rear and call it a day.