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Old 03-22-2018, 09:54 AM   #29
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bump.. for what it's worth.. i had a similar experience with blowing a hole through my crankcase similar to above... I have a 2014 BRZ that was manufactured in 2013. I ended up going with a used 2015 moto and I ended up using the 2014 harness and the 2014 ECU since that ecu has my ecutek license flashed on it..... haven't started it up/tried turning it on; but all connectors/plugs plugged right in for whatever it's worth.

I don't believe you will have any problems with ECU, they are all same even manual/auto all years.


you just need to flash in compatable ecu calibration. But your not changing that so should be fine.


done a few ecu swaps now
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Old 03-22-2018, 09:55 AM   #30
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I don't believe you will have any problems with ECU, they are all same even manual/auto all years.


you just need to flash in compatable ecu calibration. But your not changing that so should be fine.
yea the old ECU is going to be tuned by HRI tuning with my JDL turbo kit so other than that it should be good to go. thanks!
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Old 04-11-2018, 07:36 PM   #31
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I just did this. 2017 FA20 into a 2013 FRS. Is not a plug and play replacement...infact you have to do a lot of unplugging and swapping of parts to make it work. Basically the complete engine wire harness and the items listed below.




Crank reluctor wheel is different as well as the crank sensor and crank sensor mount which bolts in from behind the engine under the flywheel.




Pass side fuel rail is different and uses a different sensor


Coolant sensors are different

Ignition coils are different 2017 uses a 3 terminal connector 2013 uses a 2 terminal connector


OH BOY, the irony of this post. I'm still working on this guys "swap". You did a HORRIBLE job, and I hope no FT86 member ever takes another car to you. You completely screwed this poor kid over, and it has been one hell of a time getting this car back to running.

You should NOT have swapped anything from the 13' car. And you gave the car back to him with nearly every fault code in history, on the car, with the engine barely running. He then limped the car to another shop who tried to rip him off, claiming the o2 sensors were in the wrong place(Mann Engineering $1200!!!) You used the wrong bolts for the intake manifold, there are cross threaded bolts everywhere. You are a complete joke. You even charged him $200 to flash his ECU back to stock. I hope your LS swap blows up...

This car fired up for the first time TODAY "properly", however I am still convinced it isn't possible now, without the bulkhead harness too. After swapping back, and having to purchase a bunch of new 2017 parts(the old ones were not provided back to the customer, minus the ECU, which we obvisously had to bypass the immobilizer in) the car will start and idle but hunts, throwing a p0193 code. My guess at the moment, is that the 4-wire fuel pressure sensor, does not have a proper ground. Even though, the Engine harness plugs into the old bulkhead harness, there isn't a provision for the extra wire to make it back to the ECU. This code is common with fuel pressure regulator failures, so to rule that out, I swapped in a good regulator and even tried turning the code off in Ecutek(which will not allow the car to start) I need to get my hands on a 2017 pinout, so I can see about individually grounding the sensor now.

At this point, I would not recommend anyone try and do this swap without having an entire donor car to do it.
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Old 04-11-2018, 10:51 PM   #32
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I hope your LS swap blows up...
Oh... that's gold.
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Old 04-11-2018, 11:05 PM   #33
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OH BOY, the irony of this post. I'm still working on this guys "swap". You did a HORRIBLE job, and I hope no FT86 member ever takes another car to you. You completely screwed this poor kid over, and it has been one hell of a time getting this car back to running.

You should NOT have swapped anything from the 13' car. And you gave the car back to him with nearly every fault code in history, on the car, with the engine barely running. He then limped the car to another shop who tried to rip him off, claiming the o2 sensors were in the wrong place(Mann Engineering $1200!!!) You used the wrong bolts for the intake manifold, there are cross threaded bolts everywhere. You are a complete joke. You even charged him $200 to flash his ECU back to stock. I hope your LS swap blows up...

This car fired up for the first time TODAY "properly", however I am still convinced it isn't possible now, without the bulkhead harness too. After swapping back, and having to purchase a bunch of new 2017 parts(the old ones were not provided back to the customer, minus the ECU, which we obvisously had to bypass the immobilizer in) the car will start and idle but hunts, throwing a p0193 code. My guess at the moment, is that the 4-wire fuel pressure sensor, does not have a proper ground. Even though, the Engine harness plugs into the old bulkhead harness, there isn't a provision for the extra wire to make it back to the ECU. This code is common with fuel pressure regulator failures, so to rule that out, I swapped in a good regulator and even tried turning the code off in Ecutek(which will not allow the car to start) I need to get my hands on a 2017 pinout, so I can see about individually grounding the sensor now.

At this point, I would not recommend anyone try and do this swap without having an entire donor car to do it.
The context clues I'm gathering is that you guys had to undo whatever the other fellow had done?
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Old 04-12-2018, 12:03 AM   #34
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OH BOY, the irony of this post. I'm still working on this guys "swap". You did a HORRIBLE job, and I hope no FT86 member ever takes another car to you. You completely screwed this poor kid over, and it has been one hell of a time getting this car back to running.

You should NOT have swapped anything from the 13' car. And you gave the car back to him with nearly every fault code in history, on the car, with the engine barely running. He then limped the car to another shop who tried to rip him off, claiming the o2 sensors were in the wrong place(Mann Engineering $1200!!!) You used the wrong bolts for the intake manifold, there are cross threaded bolts everywhere. You are a complete joke. You even charged him $200 to flash his ECU back to stock. I hope your LS swap blows up...

This car fired up for the first time TODAY "properly", however I am still convinced it isn't possible now, without the bulkhead harness too. After swapping back, and having to purchase a bunch of new 2017 parts(the old ones were not provided back to the customer, minus the ECU, which we obvisously had to bypass the immobilizer in) the car will start and idle but hunts, throwing a p0193 code. My guess at the moment, is that the 4-wire fuel pressure sensor, does not have a proper ground. Even though, the Engine harness plugs into the old bulkhead harness, there isn't a provision for the extra wire to make it back to the ECU. This code is common with fuel pressure regulator failures, so to rule that out, I swapped in a good regulator and even tried turning the code off in Ecutek(which will not allow the car to start) I need to get my hands on a 2017 pinout, so I can see about individually grounding the sensor now.

At this point, I would not recommend anyone try and do this swap without having an entire donor car to do it.


Wow, that's a lot loud noises coming from you. Surprising really because my interaction with the owner of that car was transparent, straight forward and all the details were agreed upon. My part in this deal between two enthusiast goes as follows; I sold him a 2017 motor with around 800 miles on it for $4000.00, stock air box for $150.00, supplied a missing ignition coil $120.00 and paid for a tow $70.00 - $4340.00. I installed the engine and swapped over all the parts for free to help us both out. The car was previously equipped with a supercharger, other aftermarket items and possibly had a tune and ecutek controller? The original engine was very broken, parts of the engine were stuck in the catalytic converter.


The '17 engine was installed but it was not a finished product and required other work to be performed. It seemed to run good, but did not idle properly, the conclusion the owner and I came to was that it had a tuning issue and needed attention I couldn't provide. The owner decided to take it to another shop that he thought had the ability to tune it. Any additional items he requested, that I did not need, he was welcome to have. Any stripped out or missing parts happened before or after I did my part.


Not sure if you were his original mechanic...but I'm glad you have it just about figured out, great job pal...too bad you decided to throw a bunch of dirt at me without being sure to have accurate facts, a shame too since we are local to each other and enthusiast of the same platform, I'm sure our paths will cross sooner or later, would have liked it to be on better terms.

Here is a video of it running when I last saw it.


Last edited by ILLSMOQ; 04-12-2018 at 01:13 AM. Reason: Removed screen shots until I have permission to post.
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Old 04-12-2018, 02:30 AM   #35
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This is the shit I get for deleting my Facebook account. Now I gotta go to forums for my socializing at 11:30 at night. Fuck me.
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Old 04-12-2018, 10:00 AM   #36
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Old 04-12-2018, 10:22 AM   #37
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Wow, that's a lot loud noises coming from you. Surprising really because my interaction with the owner of that car was transparent, straight forward and all the details were agreed upon. My part in this deal between two enthusiast goes as follows; I sold him a 2017 motor with around 800 miles on it for $4000.00, stock air box for $150.00, supplied a missing ignition coil $120.00 and paid for a tow $70.00 - $4340.00. I installed the engine and swapped over all the parts for free to help us both out. The car was previously equipped with a supercharger, other aftermarket items and possibly had a tune and ecutek controller? The original engine was very broken, parts of the engine were stuck in the catalytic converter.


The '17 engine was installed but it was not a finished product and required other work to be performed. It seemed to run good, but did not idle properly, the conclusion the owner and I came to was that it had a tuning issue and needed attention I couldn't provide. The owner decided to take it to another shop that he thought had the ability to tune it. Any additional items he requested, that I did not need, he was welcome to have. Any stripped out or missing parts happened before or after I did my part.


Not sure if you were his original mechanic...but I'm glad you have it just about figured out, great job pal...too bad you decided to throw a bunch of dirt at me without being sure to have accurate facts, a shame too since we are local to each other and enthusiast of the same platform, I'm sure our paths will cross sooner or later, would have liked it to be on better terms.

Here is a video of it running when I last saw it.

Installed the parts and motor for free huh? Is that your go around so he can't hold your SHOP accountable for the poor work done? The reason I am coming at you so aggressively, is that you took advantage of a young, uninformed customer, and then let a car leave your BUSINESS in the kind of shape I'd expect from someone working out of their garage with no experience on this platform.

You are sharing a high dollar build on the forum, yet can't manage to differentiate simple bolts that need to go in correct places, proper torque procedures, and even forgetting the damn ground straps on the engine! This kind of work is inexcusable from a shop owner/mechanic. You didn't even bother to remove the intercooler or piping?! 5 mins extra work...

BTW, he was a previous customer of mine, before this car.(his other car, I had worked on was totaled) This car had Evasive's spare Pikes Peak motor in it, and Vortech Supercharger, which blew. He called me frantically when it happened, and I had him tow the car in to me. We discussed options, and when he told me the deal you offered him, I said "sure, great, as long as the guy knows what he's doing". It is apparent, that you didn't. If you had pulled the codes from the car, you would have seen over a dozen cam/crank correlation codes, fueling codes, and MAP/MAF correlation codes. I don't care what kind of mechanic you are, you don't send a car home like that. And convincing a young kid, that the car just needs some tuning work, is a joke.

I'm not sorry for throwing dirt at you. This profession is getting smaller and smaller, and shop's need to be held accountable for their work. People don't trust auto shops as it is, you're not helping...

Edit: I will give you a pass on some of the extra parts. The other shop he took the car too, had the old block I guess. After their crazy quote for work, he decided to have the car towed back up to me instead, but apparently left the block at their shop. (most of the towing was done without him present) After multiple emails and calls, they ignored, he got ahold of them, and they said "uh, sorry we threw it away." Absolute joke.
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Old 04-12-2018, 11:05 AM   #38
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Installed the parts and motor for free huh? Is that your go around so he can't hold your SHOP accountable for the poor work done? The reason I am coming at you so aggressively, is that you took advantage of a young, uninformed customer, and then let a car leave your BUSINESS in the kind of shape I'd expect from someone working out of their garage with no experience on this platform.

You are sharing a high dollar build on the forum, yet can't manage to differentiate simple bolts that need to go in correct places, proper torque procedures, and even forgetting the damn ground straps on the engine! This kind of work is inexcusable from a shop owner/mechanic. You didn't even bother to remove the intercooler or piping?! 5 mins extra work...

BTW, he was a previous customer of mine, before this car.(his other car, I had worked on was totaled) This car had Evasive's spare Pikes Peak motor in it, and Vortech Supercharger, which blew. He called me frantically when it happened, and I had him tow the car in to me. We discussed options, and when he told me the deal you offered him, I said "sure, great, as long as the guy knows what he's doing". It is apparent, that you didn't. If you had pulled the codes from the car, you would have seen over a dozen cam/crank correlation codes, fueling codes, and MAP/MAF correlation codes. I don't care what kind of mechanic you are, you don't send a car home like that. And convincing a young kid, that the car just needs some tuning work, is a joke.

I'm not sorry for throwing dirt at you. This profession is getting smaller and smaller, and shop's need to be held accountable for their work. People don't trust auto shops as it is, you're not helping...

Edit: I will give you a pass on some of the extra parts. The other shop he took the car too, had the old block I guess. After their crazy quote for work, he decided to have the car towed back up to me instead, but apparently left the block at their shop. (most of the towing was done without him present) After multiple emails and calls, they ignored, he got ahold of them, and they said "uh, sorry we threw it away." Absolute joke.
Initially, there were items that were stripped, missing (that ignition coil is probably still floating around your shop somewhere) or falling off on this car, the owner and I talked about those things and everything else, every step of the way...including the intercooler and piping which he wanted to leave in place for a possible future turbo.


Once the engine was in the car was in and running, it wasn’t supposed to be going home, the owner took it to be tuned. Who knows what happened from there. Everything the car had originally and all the ‘17 items went with it, safely boxed or strapped to the back of the tow truck . At the time, I even offered to take the ‘17 engine back out and work with him to install another engine if tuning it didn’t work out. That was 6 months ago. And here you are handing out report cards.

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Old 04-12-2018, 11:30 AM   #39
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Initially, there were items that were stripped, missing (that ignition coil is probably still floating around your shop somewhere) or falling off on this car, the owner and I talked about those things and everything else, every step of the way...including the intercooler and piping which he wanted to leave in place for a possible future turbo.


Once the engine was in the car was in and running, it wasn’t supposed to be going home, the owner took it to be tuned. Who knows what happened from there. Everything the car had originally and all the ‘17 items went with it, safely boxed or strapped to the back of the tow truck . At the time, I even offered to take the ‘17 engine back out and work with him to install another engine if tuning it didn’t work out. That was 6 months ago. And here you are handing out report cards.
The car was not "torn apart".lol It was getting ready to have the engine pulled, when he decided to have it towed to you. You're really stuck on that one coil pack missing. It was pulled to test in another car. He then picked the car up to take to you. He texted me about the coil pack, I told him I would mail it to you, he said no worries, I'll pay for a new one. He's since been re-imbursed. That was totally my fault, but has nothing to do with the car not being assembled properly in the end.

How about the missing ground straps, or the bottomed out strut tower bolts in the manifold, or the loose bell housing bolts, or the red-locktited flywheel bolts, or the stripped airbox mounting bolts, the list goes on.

It's not a report card man, you just don't get it. You came into this thread, claiming to have performed this swap. It doesn't work, plain and simple. To add insult to injury, the actual worked performed, is not something you expect from a professional shop. You want the motor back now? It's got a bunch of new parts on it.(which if you see above, I said, was the fault of the other shop)
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Old 04-12-2018, 11:32 AM   #40
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Old 04-12-2018, 11:46 AM   #41
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The car was not "torn apart".lol It was getting ready to have the engine pulled, when he decided to have it towed to you. You're really stuck on that one coil pack missing. It was pulled to test in another car. He then picked the car up to take to you. He texted me about the coil pack, I told him I would mail it to you, he said no worries, I'll pay for a new one. He's since been re-imbursed. That was totally my fault, but has nothing to do with the car not being assembled properly in the end.

How about the missing ground straps, or the bottomed out strut tower bolts in the manifold, or the loose bell housing bolts, or the red-locktited flywheel bolts, or the stripped airbox mounting bolts, the list goes on.

It's not a report card man, you just don't get it. You came into this thread, claiming to have performed this swap. It doesn't work, plain and simple. To add insult to injury, the actual worked performed, is not something you expect from a professional shop. You want the motor back now? It's got a bunch of new parts on it.(which if you see above, I said, was the fault of the other shop)
Not really stuck on that, your the one who started throwing dirt, I just tossed a little back. The motor was practically new, the rest of the car was not.

I get what you’re saying about the ‘17 swap into the earlier car, at the time nobody had definitive answers and today we still don’t. I’ll concede that my posting to the swap of a later engine into and earlier Car was premature. As far as I knew it worked out or was being worked out.

Keep up the good work, you are obviously a professional.
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Old 04-12-2018, 09:36 PM   #42
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2017 fa20 engine into 2013 car?

...and they all lived happily ever after!

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