Full Blown Turbo Kit Owners Topic

[GsxrMe]

I recently had a turbo air filter failure with my Vibrant filter that shipped with my kit just over one year ago. Summer heat and daily driving started to almost melt this pig and I didn't want it to come apart and have my turbo eat it.

I found a perfect replacement that fits without any clearance issues. The BMS Universal Cone Filter with a 4" Outlet and only 4.5 inches long. It's physically bigger but doesn't touch a damn thing. Go to find out it's made for the BMW 135i and 335i.

I'm able to run my hand completely around the filter without it toughing the turbo piping, oil cooler. This filter also retains the cone shape inside.

Again this only applies to people who are running the GTX3076r as we have a 4" inlet. I haven't tested this with anything else such as the GTX3567r, although if turbo placement is the same it might work.

Failing Vibrant


BMS

[Eazy-V]

Originally Posted by Eazy-V

The spring is 8.5psi with Greddy Profec with a 0 setting is reporting 8.6psi

So, with the supplied 550c injectors and fuel pump on the FBM stage 1 kit GTX2867R, I have this street tuned to 12PSI (Greddy Profec) on Shell 91 fuel with zero knock.

I also have the ACT SB8-HDG6 clutch/flywheel and everything seems to be holding up for now.

I might get the flex fuel kit and try E85 in the future, but how much boost can the stock engine/rods handle?

[Dipstik-sportech]

I wouldn't push it much past 400hp if it's a daily on e85 and you better have a good tune.

[GsxrMe]

Save for a short block. When you get greedy on a factory block you blow your shit up. Ya sure some are still on stock blocks but... can you afford to replace it if you get a failure?

[DHitHim]

Is there a reason for AFRs to be all over the place like a zigzag motion on data logs while cruising? I was told it was possible exhaust leak near the primary O2 and I can't find the leak. Even took the turbo off and there were no leaks between the manifold to turbo and turbo outlet to down pipe has no signs of leak either. I looked under the block and didn't see any sut or blacking where the manifold meets the head. I've been sending logs for the past week to Zach of Delicious and I can't figure it out.

I did find a leak at the Vaccuum hose for the BOV in which I T'd to the brake booster. The hose was too big for my T so at idle I was able to hear the Vaccuum sucking. I fixed that with a hose reducer. Next was maybe my FIC 1100cc injectors needed to be clocked like the stock ones to the 4 o'clock position? (Plug at 4 o'clock as you face the fuel rail).

I'll be damned if it is an exhaust leak. I'm about to take it to a shop to reinstall the turbo kit with new gaskets and resurface the flanges just incase.

[GsxrMe]

Originally Posted by DHitHim

Is there a reason for AFRs to be all over the place like a zigzag motion on data logs while cruising? I was told it was possible exhaust leak near the primary O2 and I can't find the leak. Even took the turbo off and there were no leaks between the manifold to turbo and turbo outlet to down pipe has no signs of leak either. I looked under the block and didn't see any sut or blacking where the manifold meets the head. I've been sending logs for the past week to Zach of Delicious and I can't figure it out.

I did find a leak at the Vaccuum hose for the BOV in which I T'd to the brake booster. The hose was too big for my T so at idle I was able to hear the Vaccuum sucking. I fixed that with a hose reducer. Next was maybe my FIC 1100cc injectors needed to be clocked like the stock ones to the 4 o'clock position? (Plug at 4 o'clock as you face the fuel rail).

I'll be damned if it is an exhaust leak. I'm about to take it to a shop to reinstall the turbo kit with new gaskets and resurface the flanges just incase.

What MAP are you using? Fullblown 4 bar? Or Delicious Tuning 2 bar with the Delicious Tuning tune? Delicious Tuning is a speed density tune that uses the MAF as a intake temp reading only and a 4 bar might not be scaled correctly.

If you have ECUTEK, You might want to try to run the base map from FullBlown before you pull your hair out. That it is your running everything FullBlown recommends.

[DHitHim]

How do you like your intake air filter there instead of the loop that goes across the radiator support and behind the bumper?

Originally Posted by GsxrMe

What MAP are you using? Fullblown 4 bar? Or Delicious Tuning 2 bar with the Delicious Tuning tune? Delicious Tuning is a speed density tune that uses the MAF as a intake temp reading only and a 4 bar might not be scaled correctly.

If you have ECUTEK, You might want to try to run the base map from FullBlown before you pull your hair out. That it is your running everything FullBlown recommends.

I'm running an OMNI 3 BAR MAP and Delicious Tuning is tuning it with Flash and Go remotely.


Also does anyone here run a JDL 3 inch FP+OP with the FBM Base kit? I have a leak at the flange bolt holes. It seems to be on the FBM side since the holes for the bolts on the flange sit so close to the exhaust piping. I think its a 2.5in downpipe? I have a 2.5in tommy kaira exhaust and I am sure it has a decent amount of back pressure so its pushing the leak as the bolt holes on the FBM 2.5 downpipe flange where it is mated to the 3in flange. I believe part of the bolt hole has enough to slip an exhaust leak from the 3 inch OP.
I've already put copper rtv on the mating surfaces too. I hope this makes sense.

[GsxrMe]

Im using red rtv on my 2.5" to 3" flange because no matter what, it was slipping in the past and allowing a leak.

I found a sweet 3" vband with t3 undevided I want to use to make my downpipe a true 3" downpipe. The 2.5" 4 bolt was leaking and the 2.5" to 3" flange like i mentioned above did suck until the rtv glued it in place.

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...Category_Code=

[DHitHim]

Originally Posted by GsxrMe

Im using red rtv on my 2.5" to 3" flange because no matter what, it was slipping in the past and allowing a leak.

I found a sweet 3" vband with t3 undevided I want to use to make my downpipe a true 3" downpipe. The 2.5" 4 bolt was leaking and the 2.5" to 3" flange like i mentioned above did suck until the rtv glued it in place.

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...Category_Code=

You were leaking at the housing to dp?

I really just want to convert it all to vband because it's so much easier trying to diagnose or solve leak issues. Maybe once I upgrade to a gtx30 but that's a maybe as I'm not sure how much lag that will have. I'm on a gt2871r, how much of a difference of an upgrade is the gtx28 vs the gt2871r? If I am going to upgrade should I just jump to the gtx30?

[GsxrMe]

That would be a fantastic question for Fullblown. I agree if i would of known the flanges was going to be a pain in the ass I would of paided for the same exact system aka premium kit for a few hundred more, V-Bands!

[DHitHim]

What airfilter model number should I replace my gt2871 FBM base kit with. ?

[AZ_Racer_1]

Hey could someone help me with installing my boost controller? Does anyone have pics of how the lines runs in the engine bay and where they all connect to? I can't find any diy or instructions or anything.

Thankyou

[GsxrMe]

Its easy as pie. Time to redo your vacuum lines.

First things first is to connect your WG directly to the tea supplied by full-blown Motorsports goes all the way to the back side of your intake.

Purchase a GrimmSpeed WRX boost controller. Mount the boost controller on one of the tabs sticking out of the intake manifold. I purchased a 8/32 screw that was 1" long and used a lock nut to hold it in place.

The GrimmSpeed WRX boost controller is far left part is going to be vent atmosphere so you'll just leave that alone.

The Center barb on the Boost controller will be a brand new vacuum line to your Turbo compressor housing. If you don't have a Inlet tapped on your compressor housing then buy a quick tap and tap one of the tubes directly after the turbo.

On the far right nipple on your Boost controller connect to your wastegate.

Leave your evap hooked up and do not connect your Boost controller until your tuner is ready. You can drive your car with the Boost controller connected with the vacuum lines and just not the electrical and it will drive perfectly fine and safe.

If this is too complicated and you need pictures I can upload them.

[AZ_Racer_1]

Thankyou for the response! It helped, but I bought the kit used and it already has a boost controller that came with the kit but it's not the grimmspeed one It's the turbosmart street series, its blue and black lol. Pictures would be great too tho! Also what about the port from the bov?