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Old 07-26-2018, 06:38 AM   #141
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How long from first time you heard it squeal to when it grenaded?
About 4 months.
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Old 07-26-2018, 03:44 PM   #142
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Originally Posted by ermax View Post
I'm only annotating the parts of the video that aren't obvious. If you see something else in the video that you are unsure of let me know the timecode and I will look at it and annotate it.

Unbolt two bolts on the slave cylinder and push it to the side:
https://youtu.be/ZhjIXU5GRcc?t=4m2s

Unbolt ground wire and then disconnect 2 wiring connectors:
https://youtu.be/ZhjIXU5GRcc?t=4m21s

Mark prop shaft with paint pen or nail polish and then unbolt:
https://youtu.be/ZhjIXU5GRcc?t=13m46s

This car is already missing the anoying rubber boot. I sugest saving some hair and cutting this boot off with a knife:
https://youtu.be/ZhjIXU5GRcc?t=16m27s

Rotate locking tabs up on both sides of the linkage with a flat head and then slide the pins out. This one is hard to explain in words. You sort of have to put your hands on the linkage to understand it.:
https://youtu.be/ZhjIXU5GRcc?t=16m48s

Unbolt tranny. Do not worry it will not fall off. It is supported by the lower studs. There are 8 bolts total. Two of them run through the starter:
https://youtu.be/ZhjIXU5GRcc?t=17m12s

Pull the starter out and push it to the side. It will rest nicely on the over pipe. Make sure it's not going to fall in your face.:
https://youtu.be/ZhjIXU5GRcc?t=20m34s

Critical part I missed. Support the front of the engine so it doesn't tip forward. I used the jack from the trunk with a small 2x4 block and jacked from the water pump housing (not the actual pulley!).:
https://youtu.be/ZhjIXU5GRcc?t=21m19s

Pry the tranny off the lower studs. You may need to lift on the tail and you may also need to raise or lower the jack on the front of the engine so the studs aren't binding at all:
https://youtu.be/ZhjIXU5GRcc?t=22m44s
Well after a couple of days working on my car, I'm finally done. But my clutch & shifter is all out of wack now

When I step in my clutch it just stinks to the floor and stays there. And my shifter is impossible to move into gear (except 3rd gear). Any ideas what the cause could be?

I did the slave cylinder swap that others are doing to improve clutch pedal feel, and when I tried to bleed the clutch, no fluid comes out when I pump the clutch pedal. It's stuck to the floor so u have to raise/press it by hand.

I didn't plan to do this clutch cylinder swap right away, but when I tried to install the original one, it was already broken.. the pin couldn't be pushed back into the cylinder no matter how hard I tried, there was something obstructing it on the inside.

It's just been a frustrating experience so far. Any suggestions on what could be wrong is greatly appreciated. It's the first major work I've done on my car besides basic maintenance/ brakes/fluids, so I'm not used to diagnosing problems like this.
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Old 07-26-2018, 03:59 PM   #143
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Originally Posted by reeves View Post
Well after a couple of days working on my car, I'm finally done. But my clutch & shifter is all out of wack now

When I step in my clutch it just stinks to the floor and stays there. And my shifter is impossible to move into gear (except 3rd gear). Any ideas what the cause could be?

I did the slave cylinder swap that others are doing to improve clutch pedal feel, and when I tried to bleed the clutch, no fluid comes out when I pump the clutch pedal. It's stuck to the floor so u have to raise/press it by hand.

I didn't plan to do this clutch cylinder swap right away, but when I tried to install the original one, it was already broken.. the pin couldn't be pushed back into the cylinder no matter how hard I tried, there was something obstructing it on the inside.

It's just been a frustrating experience so far. Any suggestions on what could be wrong is greatly appreciated. It's the first major work I've done on my car besides basic maintenance/ brakes/fluids, so I'm not used to diagnosing problems like this.
If your clutch isn't disengaging (because you need to properly bleed the line) then clearly it's not going to go into gear. Will it go into gear while the engine is off?

Did you follow these directions for bleeding?
https://demos.starbase7.net/t3Portal...38726092437403

It's very important that while bleeding that you keep the fluid level between min/max. If it runs dry you are literally starting all over.

I also assume you didn't mess with anything related to the shifter on the inside of the car. If you did, it's possible you didn't get the reverse lockout lined back up properly.

I would also double check that you got the linkage under the car back together properly.

Regardless of what is wrong, don't stress out too much. There's really not much that can really go wrong here. Nothing that can't be fixed for free. You may need to buy more fluid but that's about it.
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Old 07-26-2018, 04:08 PM   #144
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Originally Posted by Phantobe View Post
Anyone know of any good dealers in Southern California to get this done?

I took it to cabe Toyota in long Beach and they pretty much said I have to bring it in during the week get confirmation from Toyota, and if Toyota says yes then they start doing the work if they find anythong wrong with the clutch other than the throwout bearing then none of it is covered and I have to pay for everything.

Seems kinda sketchy to me.

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I'm at ~45k miles and I just got this done at DCH Toyota in Torrance. Dropped it off first thing on Saturday and picked it up Tuesday with new TOB covered under warranty.


They gave me the same schpiel but I was pretty certain it was the TOB because of all the videos of the exact same noise out there.


Good luck homie
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Old 07-26-2018, 04:16 PM   #145
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Originally Posted by ermax View Post
If your clutch isn't disengaging (because you need to properly bleed the line) then clearly it's not going to go into gear. Will it go into gear while the engine is off?

Did you follow these directions for bleeding?
https://demos.starbase7.net/t3Portal...38726092437403

It's very important that while bleeding that you keep the fluid level between min/max. If it runs dry you are literally starting all over.

I also assume you didn't mess with anything related to the shifter on the inside of the car. If you did, it's possible you didn't get the reverse lockout lined back up properly.

I would also double check that you got the linkage under the car back together properly.

Regardless of what is wrong, don't stress out too much. There's really not much that can really go wrong here. Nothing that can't be fixed for free. You may need to buy more fluid but that's about it.
I can't shift even with the engine off. I didn't even bother trying to start the engine yet with the clutch not working.

And unfortunately I did mess with the inside of the car. I followed the DIY about installing a clutch. I didn't mess with the inside until I got to a point where I could take off the transmission, so I took everything off on the inside just to be sure something wasn't stuck.

About the linkage, I secured the rod going from the bottom of the shifter to the transmission if that's what you mean. If there's something else about the linkage that I didn't do, let me know.

I don't think I reinstalled the reverse lockout correctly because nothing happens when I pull up on the shifter to go into reverse.
I just hope I don't have to pull apart the transmission again
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Old 07-26-2018, 04:41 PM   #146
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I can't shift even with the engine off. I didn't even bother trying to start the engine yet with the clutch not working.

And unfortunately I did mess with the inside of the car. I followed the DIY about installing a clutch. I didn't mess with the inside until I got to a point where I could take off the transmission, so I took everything off on the inside just to be sure something wasn't stuck.

About the linkage, I secured the rod going from the bottom of the shifter to the transmission if that's what you mean. If there's something else about the linkage that I didn't do, let me know.

I don't think I reinstalled the reverse lockout correctly because nothing happens when I pull up on the shifter to go into reverse.
I just hope I don't have to pull apart the transmission again
I warned you not to mess around inside the car. :P

So this is good news then. You just need to fix the lockout which is very easy. Here are the directions from the service manual but I didn't even follow them. I just loosened it up so it could slide around a little and then a moved the shifter around until it would go into 1st and 2nd but not reverse and the tightened the bolts.

https://demos.starbase7.net/t3Portal...59894263533865

Once you get the shifter working correctly then you can focus on bleeding the clutch. Two rules when bleeding is, don't run dry and don't let the clutch up unless the bleeder valve is closed. If either of those things happen you are just putting air back in the system. Get a friend to help out with this process. Just have them top off the reservoir as it drops and maybe open/close the valve for you.
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Old 07-26-2018, 11:20 PM   #147
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I warned you not to mess around inside the car. :P

So this is good news then. You just need to fix the lockout which is very easy. Here are the directions from the service manual but I didn't even follow them. I just loosened it up so it could slide around a little and then a moved the shifter around until it would go into 1st and 2nd but not reverse and the tightened the bolts.

https://demos.starbase7.net/t3Portal...59894263533865

Once you get the shifter working correctly then you can focus on bleeding the clutch. Two rules when bleeding is, don't run dry and don't let the clutch up unless the bleeder valve is closed. If either of those things happen you are just putting air back in the system. Get a friend to help out with this process. Just have them top off the reservoir as it drops and maybe open/close the valve for you.
Ok I think I may have the lockout situation figured out (not quite fixed, but I'm not worried bout it as much).

As for the clutch, when I try to bleed it... ugh.
When I step on the clutch pedal, it springs really fast to the floor and stays there. I guess that's the helper spring in action when there's no hydraulic pressure from the fluid...?
And it doesn't engage the slave cylindar either. When I switched out the slave cylindar, I might've gotten air in the system, but it's like there's no pressure at all now. So basically I can't pump fluid out to bleed the system, and I'm not sure how to tell if it's the cylindar/fluid is at fault or the if I messed up elsewhere.

The only thing I did during my clutch/TOB install was unbolt the slave cylinder to pull off the tranny. After putting the tranny back on, is when I discovered the slave cylindar's rod couldn't be pushed back in. It's a pretty simple swap replacing it, I can't imagine I screwed that up. Any advice on how to diagnose what's wrong now?
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Old 07-28-2018, 12:58 PM   #148
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There aren’t any visual changes other than a little paint dot if I recall.
There are obvious visual differences, it's more than just a white dot.

Old #30502AA051, New #30502AA150.





Last edited by Trueweltall; 07-28-2018 at 01:13 PM.
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Old 07-29-2018, 07:39 PM   #149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ermax View Post
There arenít any visual changes other than a little paint dot if I recall.
There are obvious visual differences, it's more than just a white dot.

Old #30502AA051, New #30502AA150.




I just swapped mines out the other day.. There was no obvious difference to me.
Not sure what the old part number was though.


The old one appears identical to the new #30502AA150 part. Minus the white dot and a ton of gunk.






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Old 08-06-2018, 06:28 PM   #150
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I just swapped mines out the other day.. There was no obvious difference to me.
Not sure what the old part number was though.
The old one appears identical to the new #30502AA150 part. Minus the white dot and a ton of gunk.
There were mines in your transmission?! That sounds pretty dangerous...
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Old 08-07-2018, 09:19 AM   #151
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There were mines in your transmission?! That sounds pretty dangerous...
LOL no but if you leave a defective TOB in for too long it'll seem like there is. Just ask Tcoat if it can blow up.
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Old 08-07-2018, 09:52 AM   #152
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LOL no but if you leave a defective TOB in for too long it'll seem like there is. Just ask Tcoat if it can blow up.
I have heard mines go off. I have also heard the TOB let go. The noise is surprisingly similar!
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Old 10-01-2018, 02:43 PM   #153
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2018+ has part number 30502AA130 for the TOB. will that work?
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Old 10-01-2019, 12:50 AM   #154
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2018+ has part number 30502AA130 for the TOB. will that work?
This website shows that its not for a BRZ:
https://www.subaruparts.com/oem-part...RzJms9MQ%3D%3D

AA150 seems to apply to BRZ:
https://www.subaruparts.com/oem-part...ing-30502aa150

Whats your source? Mine might not be correct either, but I'm to tired to confirm.
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