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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.


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Old 07-08-2019, 10:43 PM   #15
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@kev0 I see that your ABS and TC light is also on. I had a broken ABS sensor once, and it put the car into limp mode- not only could I not rev much over 4000 rpm, any time I tried to come to a complete stop the car would nearly stall itself in this mode, even with the clutch in. I see you are in an AT but I imagine it would exhibit a similar behavior.

Are you experiencing any problems with limp mode?
Hey there. I'm actually not in limp mode. Those lights are just on..I don't know why. They wern't on before I flashed my Moto East tune. Driving seems normal so far. I'll replace ABS sensor if the tune can't get it off.
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Old 07-08-2019, 10:46 PM   #16
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@kev0 I think there would be a CEL (actual CEL and not just your ABS/trac lights) with readable codes for broken ABS module if it was there.

Is there any part of your tune that might disable CEL or limp mode? I think you might look to your tuner for support on this.
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Old 07-08-2019, 10:58 PM   #17
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@kev0 I think there would be a CEL (actual CEL and not just your ABS/trac lights) with readable codes for broken ABS module if it was there.

Is there any part of your tune that might disable CEL or limp mode? I think you might look to your tuner for support on this.
I do have a code for those lights. It's C1288. I could NOT figure out, for the life of me, what it means. Only thing I've seen about it is an ECU mismatch, which is probably from the tune.
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Old 07-08-2019, 10:59 PM   #18
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Best of luck, but given your post history here @kev0, I'd advise you against modifying your car further. You simply do not have the knowledge or the budget to do it correctly, and you are only going to cause yourself heartache, as you have been doing so continuously already.
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Old 07-08-2019, 11:00 PM   #19
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@kev0 well that's revealing.

Contact tuner, tell them to make sure you've got the right files.
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Old 07-08-2019, 11:04 PM   #20
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@kev0 check this post by @steve99 :

"The lost comms with transmssion computer​ is [n]ormal on auto cars when you reflash the engine ecu.

TheC1288 code seems to indicate a problem with a pressure sensor that feeds into abs\vcs conputer. Posibly brake pressure sensor.

The engine and abs computers are likely ok

Check the brake lights and see if the brake switch is working, failed brake switch xan upset the abs computer as it doesnt know when pedal is pressed"

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...98&postcount=3

thread link

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=120129

Seemed to have tracked it down to a bug in ecutek.
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Old 07-09-2019, 09:41 PM   #21
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I know the EJ motors are fairly different from the FA motors, but my WRX would flicker the oil light when coming to a stop after it ate through a quart of oil. The pickup was being starved by braking because my oil level was too low. I imagine your situation is the same. You still haven't answered, so I'll ask again, have you checked your oil level, properly? Explain how you check your oil level, too. Pay attention to if the vehicle is level, how ling the vehicle has been sitting, and wipe first, dip second, check third. It's worth looking at, especially if it means not having to deal with a mechanic.

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Old 07-09-2019, 10:33 PM   #22
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I know the EJ motors are fairly different from the FA motors, but my WRX would flicker the oil light when coming to a stop after it ate through a quart of oil. The pickup was being starved by braking because my oil level was too low. I imagine your situation is the same. You still haven't answered, so I'll ask again, have you checked your oil level, properly? Explain how you check your oil level, too. Pay attention to if the vehicle is level, how ling the vehicle has been sitting, and wipe first, dip second, check third. It's worth looking at, especially if it means not having to deal with a mechanic.

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Oh I'm sorry! Yeah, oil level is 100% fine. I check everytime I go out for a drive. I let it cool down for 10 minutes after driving. It's actually a teeny bit past the second hole, so it's probably overfilled. Funny how it didn't do that the day after changing my oil though.

I let it cool down for 10 minutes, take out the dipstick, wipe it, insert it fully, take it out and read side with the lower reading. Oil temps got up to 208 today which worried me. Going to get it switched out to 5w30 because I am boosted now.. not sure if that will fix the problem.
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Old 07-09-2019, 10:38 PM   #23
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Do you have OpenFlash tablet, or ECUtek? Depending on your tune revision, Racerom 10 has a bug that causes a couple CELs like that. Sorry, this has nothing to do with your oil light, but I have to leave B01C and go back to A01C to use Racerom10, since it has built in boost control without needing customer maps to accomplish it.
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Old 07-09-2019, 10:44 PM   #24
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Do you have OpenFlash tablet, or ECUtek? Depending on your tune revision, Racerom 10 has a bug that causes a couple CELs like that. Sorry, this has nothing to do with your oil light, but I have to leave B01C and go back to A01C to use Racerom10, since it has built in boost control without needing customer maps to accomplish it.
Yup I'm on EcuTek. Got the lights right when I flashed. The file my tuner gave me was 'ZA1JB01D'. He might be able to get the codes off because his last email to me was 'i'll get rid of the c1288 code tomorrow'. I'm just hoping that it really is from the code and not a hardware issue.
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Old 07-09-2019, 11:03 PM   #25
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Oh I'm sorry! Yeah, oil level is 100% fine. I check everytime I go out for a drive. I let it cool down for 10 minutes after driving. It's actually a teeny bit past the second hole, so it's probably overfilled. Funny how it didn't do that the day after changing my oil though.



I let it cool down for 10 minutes, take out the dipstick, wipe it, insert it fully, take it out and read side with the lower reading. Oil temps got up to 208 today which worried me. Going to get it switched out to 5w30 because I am boosted now.. not sure if that will fix the problem.
I know the sump design is completely different, but supposedly the same techs made it, so

The next thing I might look ar if it's only coming on with brakes is grounds to the motor and the sensor itself. Is the light dim or very present? Constant? The sensor uses only one wire and is just a simple pressure switch that's normally open, meaning it will light if that wire finds ground anywhere.

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Old 07-09-2019, 11:18 PM   #26
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I know the sump design is completely different, but supposedly the same techs made it, so

The next thing I might look ar if it's only coming on with brakes is grounds to the motor and the sensor itself. Is the light dim or very present? Constant? The sensor uses only one wire and is just a simple pressure switch that's normally open, meaning it will light if that wire finds ground anywhere.

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It's very dim! It's not completely lit. It is very dim and will almost never become fully lit. It only happens after the about 15 minutes of driving.
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Old 07-09-2019, 11:25 PM   #27
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It's very dim! It's not completely lit. It is very dim and will almost never become fully lit. It only happens after the about 15 minutes of driving.
Replace the sensor. That's the most likely culprit as its mechanical. Mine did the dance thing when I killed the sensor with simple green (affter rejoicing ther front timing cover - so you can imagine my concern). It's a $20 something part from the dealer. If that doesn't work though, it still sounds electrical. If the sensor were actually switching from pressure it would be a very bright light almost instantly. No way your oil pressure is perfectly sitting right on the edge if that sensor's pressure threshold for even a full second.
That said, driving without a reliable oil pressure light, even if it's a false alarm is scary, so not a dumb idea to not drive it until it's fixed.

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Old 07-09-2019, 11:30 PM   #28
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Yup I'm on EcuTek. Got the lights right when I flashed. The file my tuner gave me was 'ZA1JB01D'. He might be able to get the codes off because his last email to me was 'i'll get rid of the c1288 code tomorrow'. I'm just hoping that it really is from the code and not a hardware issue.
Make sure to mention the Racerom10 bug. I don't know if it affects B01D, but I'll bet that if they switch you to A01D it'll go away.
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