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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.


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Old 02-10-2019, 01:11 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by solidsnake11 View Post
I would not worry so much with the suction side of the pump. The vacuum should pull the plate down tight. I used gasgacinch on mine to seal the plates and oil pump cover. I also machined a new plate for the driver side which is 10mm thick, this is the maximum or it will hit the chain guides. I had no air leaking from the oem passenger side plate. I did get the engine in and started just haven't hooked a oil pressure gauge up, but the oil light goes out before it fires so that's a good sign. Another trick to help prime a new engine is fill the outside hole up with oil, underneath the oil filter in the front cover. This hole leads directly to the oil pump.

Switching the hubs to 114.3 on 5 so its not drivable.

I did this on mine. I also filled the filter up and then I turned it over with the throttle pressed all the way down (which disables fuel so it will not start) for about 10 secs. When I fired it up it sounded nice and smooth. It can be nerve wracking on first crank when itís all dry for the first few secs and sounds like it wants to come apart. Itís was easy to combat this on this engine.
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Old 02-10-2019, 03:01 PM   #86
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the oil light goes out before it fires so that's a good sign.
This is truly impressive.
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Old 02-24-2019, 11:11 AM   #87
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Bump, any update?
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Old 02-25-2019, 09:39 AM   #88
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Cavatation also has a side effect of heating the fluid. Seems Fa20 cooks the oil pretty fast when its pushed hard.
What oil weight were you using that caused cavitation & metal erosion?
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Old 02-25-2019, 09:46 AM   #89
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cavitation .. wasn't it more of boiling/evaporating of fluids due low pressure that lowers boiling temp of fluid, not rising temps themselves or my memory fails me?
At least IIRC it was that way for boat propellers, especially high speed ones, with water evaporating for fast spinning propeller, thus high pressure gradient on one side of blade ..
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Old 02-25-2019, 09:53 AM   #90
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What oil weight were you using that caused cavitation & metal erosion?
I don't think oil weight is the cause, it's a shit design causing it.
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Old 02-25-2019, 02:05 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solidsnake11 View Post
I would not worry so much with the suction side of the pump. The vacuum should pull the plate down tight. I used gasgacinch on mine to seal the plates and oil pump cover. I also machined a new plate for the driver side which is 10mm thick, this is the maximum or it will hit the chain guides. I had no air leaking from the oem passenger side plate. I did get the engine in and started just haven't hooked a oil pressure gauge up, but the oil light goes out before it fires so that's a good sign. Another trick to help prime a new engine is fill the outside hole up with oil, underneath the oil filter in the front cover. This hole leads directly to the oil pump.

Switching the hubs to 114.3 on 5 so its not drivable.
Thanks for this. I just took my engine apart due to a spun bearing. It's a 2013 BRZ (I was hoping a valve spring broke!). The engine has less than 35k on it, but I've been tracking it and it has an OFT tune and header back.

Is it OK to use the gasgacinch on all of those plates? Subaru put SO MUCH SEALANT everywhere that I would expect they would've put some here too!









Sealant galore




Last edited by fika84; 02-25-2019 at 05:12 PM.
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Old 02-25-2019, 07:23 PM   #92
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On the topic of oil stuff, I just tried a mod to my sandwich plate that helped out. I had a pressure drop after my oil cooler install. The manufacturer assured me the loss was normal and they have way more experience than me. Anyways, I drilled a hole through the sandwich plate. I started small and kept increasing the size of the hole until my redline oil pressure was close to where it was prior to the oil cooler install. I don't know a thing about thermodynamical stuff but the idea was that at all rpm's, some oil could bypass the cooler to increase flow but not enough to reduce cooling significantly. Max temps are 10į hotter but I gained 8psi even with the slightly higher temperatures. I started with a 3/16 hole and ended up with 5/16. Oil lines are an10.
Iím interested in this, you just drilled right through the sandwich plate? Any specific area? Also what oil cooler kit are you running? Iím going to get my feed for turbo from another location and cap off the feed by the a/c compressor, relocate my own oil temp sensor to oil pan and since Iíll have it off, add the killer bee pick up tube. I already have a blue moon lower oil pan baffle.
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Old 03-26-2019, 10:24 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solidsnake11 View Post
I would not worry so much with the suction side of the pump. The vacuum should pull the plate down tight. I used gasgacinch on mine to seal the plates and oil pump cover. I also machined a new plate for the driver side which is 10mm thick, this is the maximum or it will hit the chain guides. I had no air leaking from the oem passenger side plate. I did get the engine in and started just haven't hooked a oil pressure gauge up, but the oil light goes out before it fires so that's a good sign. Another trick to help prime a new engine is fill the outside hole up with oil, underneath the oil filter in the front cover. This hole leads directly to the oil pump.

Switching the hubs to 114.3 on 5 so its not drivable.
Is this thing on the road yet? Any updates on how effective your modifications are?
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Old 03-27-2019, 06:51 AM   #94
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Originally Posted by churchx View Post
cavitation .. wasn't it more of boiling/evaporating of fluids due low pressure that lowers boiling temp of fluid, not rising temps themselves or my memory fails me?
At least IIRC it was that way for boat propellers, especially high speed ones, with water evaporating for fast spinning propeller, thus high pressure gradient on one side of blade ..


I always understood it to be that the fast spinning propeller causes sufficient vacuum at the leading edge to cause the cavitation.


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Old 03-27-2019, 07:00 AM   #95
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I've always thought vacuum cleaners were an oxymoron.
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Old 04-06-2019, 01:55 PM   #96
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Is this thing on the road yet? Any updates on how effective your modifications are?
It is not but it is getting closer. But it does have a 3 bar map sensor, 1150 injectors, walbro pump 13.5 inch rear and 14 inch front brembos.
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Old 04-29-2019, 03:23 PM   #97
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I finally got rid of the factory pickup tube after finding it half stopped up with what looked to be sealant. I think it was the gasgacinch that got pushed out from the oil pump plate from deflecting. I used a sc300 pickup from a 2jz which has about ~ 8 times the screen of the factory. I have not had a chance to drive it, been busy building the turbo assembly.
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Old 04-29-2019, 04:21 PM   #98
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This has been a very good read. Thank you @solidsnake11 for your excellent research and information. I'd love to see the community come together and put out some parts for those of us who don't have the fabrication skills to replicate this, but are also concerned with oiling under race conditions. Oil pressure issues on this platform are probably my main concern right now, and I'm mostly prepping by figuring out my engine swap plans, but I'd just as soon resolve them so I can keep the FA20 as the heart of the beast.
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