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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.


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Old 03-10-2017, 02:25 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by xsnapshot View Post
How are you guys all handling the rev limiter with the increased power?

I'm asking because at least on my JRSC + HBP+ E85 car, I will hit the limiter before the trans is able to shift from 1st to 2nd in automatic mode.

Normally I'm in manual mode when I want to have fun and I shift it when needed to account for that.

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Yup, dam rev limiter always getting in the way. And I wish it had a soft limiter before the full cut out.
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Old 03-10-2017, 05:24 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by Stimmed View Post
Im sitting at 400hp on quite a low reading dyno. And its having no issues.

And at 400hp it is just quite absurd to be quite honest! anything above half throttle in auto mode to get on it a bit from a roll and your spinning wheels.

In manual mode getting on it decently it just spins 1/2/3 if your really into it. Fun but a bit scary!.

Driving in auto mode is actually realllllly sketchy if you are rolling along and decide do lay into it. You will just go sideways. SC might be a bit diff to turbo in that respect though as its not a rush of boost all at one time.
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Originally Posted by Lunatic View Post
250 @ 5800 rpm.

At what RPM are you making 400whp?

Cause at peak torque you're only making 276hp.

Assume you hit peak HP at 7k, You'd need 300 torque.
Even at 8k your cars torque would need to be higher than what you stated as your peak torque.

Your numbers don't add up.
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Old 03-10-2017, 05:27 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by x808drifter View Post
At what RPM are you making 400whp?

Cause at peak torque you're only making 276hp.

Assume you hit peak HP at 7k, You'd need 300 torque.
Even at 8k your cars torque would need to be higher than what you stated as your peak torque.

Your numbers don't add up.
You have quoted 2 different peoples cars in there Drifter :P.
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Old 03-10-2017, 05:30 PM   #46
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Heres a pic of one of my Dyno runs for reference.
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Old 03-10-2017, 06:29 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xsnapshot View Post
How are you guys all handling the rev limiter with the increased power?

I'm asking because at least on my JRSC + HBP+ E85 car, I will hit the limiter before the trans is able to shift from 1st to 2nd in automatic mode.

Normally I'm in manual mode when I want to have fun and I shift it when needed to account for that.

Just wondering.

I also notice that there is a slight delay in the shift from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd when I'm full out. As in I click the paddle but I stay in gear still accelerating for a split second longer. The shift itself seems pretty quick once it starts.
Yeah I get the same thing but not all the time it seems. Auto mode 1-2 can hang in high revs for a bit but seems fine for me after that. Manual mode can take a second or less 1-2-3 I just try and shift a bit earlier then I would normally to make sure im not hitting 8k (which my tuner laughed at me when he had seen I had a couple of times.)
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Old 03-10-2017, 07:30 PM   #48
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You have quoted 2 different peoples cars in there Drifter :P.
I will go hang myself.
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Old 03-28-2017, 06:50 PM   #49
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Now that I'm pretty close to having the funds for the edelbrock kit I'm contemplating about a 2002 996 Carrera s I saw in an add..
it's priced the same with the resale value of my gt86.. and the funds for the edelbrock kit can go to any maintenance issues

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Old 03-31-2017, 08:54 AM   #50
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I too have noticed late shifting and some slippage when going form 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. When really on it I have to shift a good 1-2 seconds before I want it to actually shift. I'm currently in the 350-380 WHP range on 265s and I'm trying to figure out what all I can do to beef up the trans.
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Old 02-10-2019, 01:38 PM   #51
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What trans fluid are you boosted guys using?
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Old 12-02-2019, 06:34 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by killsafkat View Post
What trans fluid are you boosted guys using?
I've been using the stock WS but overheated the tans twice (very hot days on track) costing me 2 sets of clutch packs. This time I'm going to add a friction modifier which also reduces temp (according to claims) add a temp gauge, and change fluid more frequently. Also considering switching to Amsoil Signature series or OE; both of which are replacements for WS.

Last edited by North_GA_FRS; 12-02-2019 at 08:54 PM. Reason: added trans fluid
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Old 12-02-2019, 07:42 PM   #53
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I've been using the stock WS but overheated the tans twice (very hot days on track) costing me 2 sets of clutch packs. This time I'm going to add a friction modifier which also reduces temp (according to claims) add a temp gauge, and change fluid more frequently.
How much was labor on clutch packs? You go with SSP? How much WTQ you making?
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Old 12-02-2019, 09:00 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17 View Post
How much was labor on clutch packs? You go with SSP? How much WTQ you making?
Yes, replacements were SSP and labor was $1200 but also included the stage 2 valve body install; haven't installed the second set yet. Car is making 350/275 on a Mustang dyno.

Last edited by North_GA_FRS; 12-02-2019 at 09:03 PM. Reason: forgot tq
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Old 12-02-2019, 11:25 PM   #55
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Yes, replacements were SSP and labor was $1200 but also included the stage 2 valve body install; haven't installed the second set yet. Car is making 350/275 on a Mustang dyno.
How long/many track days did the ssp clutch pack last? Do you think the heat was more responsible then the power for destroying the clutch packs?

The next big purchase for my build is building the trans. But I really want to swap in a ZF 8HP having 6 close ratio usable gears instead of the 4 capable of handling plenty of power and swapping to a 3.7 FD with 400whp+ would be amazing. Just donít know what would all be necessary for the ZF swap.
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