Koyo Radiator vs Oil Cooler

[OrbitalEllipses]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

Winter will be a different story...

A) thermostatically controlled kits;
B) piece of cardboard over the cooler for warmup or operation.

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by jasper

If you guys call parker hydraulics and tell them what your looking for they normally have really good prices on lines and fittings and they sell some really good quality stuff.

Sent from my Q10

Can they put together stainless lines too if you pick the barbs and length?

[Accurate Race Shop]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

Can they put together stainless lines too if you pick the barbs and length?

If you want the tfe lines (better than tube in some ways) they should be pretty simple to put together it's $7 a foot for 5,000 psi 400 degree heat rated hose. If you have some decent grip strenght a vise and some wrenches you can put these together. You have to call to make sure they will assemble for you if not you can do it in about 10 min. It's a handy skill to have for this and brake lines, clutch lines, and even fuel lines. The price of what perrin has in lines and fittings cost me well under $100.

Edit: not bashing perrin at all they have a great product I just have some years in aircraft hydraulics that has shown me were to get the best deals.
Sent from my Q10

[Accurate Race Shop]

[ame="http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=3tjRsbSDA48"]Phenix AN Hose End instalation on Teflon Hose made easy - YouTube[/ame]

Here is a video of how it's done pretty simple stuff. I don't use a screw driver to flare I use a brass pick less chance of damaging the hose. Also rubber hoses have an expiration date these do not. These also handle heat and pressure better. Granted this is a tiny hose be ready to but some muscle on that wrench when you get up to a -8 or -10 line.

Sent from my Q10

[iketeru]

I'm intrigued by this discussion... being a total noob, I didn't know these components were available for way cheaper than the kit price. would be nice if someone could put together a DIY, with mounting options on our car.

for example, found one for 350z's here:
http://my350z.com/forum/engine-drive...n-a-na-hr.html

[Accurate Race Shop]

Originally Posted by iketeru

I'm intrigued by this discussion... being a total noob, I didn't know these components were available for way cheaper than the kit price. would be nice if someone could put together a DIY, with mounting options on our car.

for example, found one for 350z's here:
http://my350z.com/forum/engine-drive...n-a-na-hr.html

Once I get all the parts in I can do one. I am moving across the country in 2 weeks so no promise it's going to get done before I finish the move.

Sent from my Q10

[iketeru]

Originally Posted by jasper

Once I get all the parts in I can do one. I am moving across the country in 2 weeks so no promise it's going to get done before I finish the move.

Sent from my Q10

that would be sweet, looking forward to it! hope the move goes smoothly, had to do that as well not too long ago.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

What I don't understand is why the oil cooler kits cost 2x as much as a big ass aluminum radiator from Koyo...

Radiator Parts:
-Aluminum core
-2 Aluminum end-tanks

Oil Cooler parts:
-Adapter spacer
-Thermostat
-Lines and fittings (SS or clamp on rubber)
-Aluminum core
-2 Aluminum end tanks
-Mounting solution (ie not built into the car like the radiator)

That's basically why. The actual cooler isn't that expensive, the thermostat and other bits bring up the cost quite a bit.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by kmbkk

I went with a radiator first. My thinking is if the coolant cools faster, and more, it'll help cool the engine better, in turn helping keep the oil a little cooler. I have no empirical data to back this up, just my opinion. Also, I have a vented CF hood to help the hot air escape better.

Thermostat in the engine will just close quicker. Big radiators are great when you need to kill larger amounts of heat, too big and the engine doesn't heat up as well, we've had to remove mechanical fans on race cars back in the day because water temps would go from warm, to too cold, back to warm, back to too cold, etc from excessive cooling while the system was closed, etc.

In the end though, a larger capacity radiator won't have nearly the effect on oil temps as an oil cooler.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by wootwoot

I guess I'll ask: what it the optimum oil temp in everyones opinion?

I think perrin mentioned they saw a performance loss at 230F. But too cool is just as bad as too hot. So where so we draw the line?

I prefer 250 or less, I see 235 on the track with a 19 row mocal cooler in Florida....

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

I talked to a few more people involved in spec teams. 215-235 seems to be the magic number for track. If you are running 0w20 obviously lower is better. if you start seeing higher temps switch oil weight.

Winter will be a different story...

I know this wasn't the point of your statement, but just to add some more..

Thinner oils run cooler, which reduce the need for a cooler slightly. However, the flip side is that they have less oil pressure which is even worse hot. So you will likely find (once you start measuring pressure) that 0w20 results in low oil pressure on the track (IMO anyways, less than the 10psi per 1,000rpm and it DROPS from 7,000 up...) so switching to 0w30/5w30 etc bumps up pressure as desired, at an increase of oil temps (slight but being at 300 stock...) which can suggest a cooler, which then drops pressures a few PSI.

Fun stuff right.

Oh and for winter, just block off (or remove) the cooler.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses

A) thermostatically controlled kits;
B) piece of cardboard over the cooler for warmup or operation.

The thermo units are partial bypass generally (and that includes the mocal one people use here), so oil still flows through the cooler, just not full flow. You knew that already, clarifying for others.

[Accurate Race Shop]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

I prefer 250 or less, I see 235 on the track with a 19 row mocal cooler in Florida....

I was told the car starts to pull load at 230 not entirely sure how accurate that info is but it came from a reliable source that has never given me bad information before.

Sent from my Q10

[OrbitalEllipses]

Dave!