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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for! |
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06-02-2016, 01:09 PM | #43 | |
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The Following User Says Thank You to renfield90 For This Useful Post: | Pat (06-02-2016) |
06-02-2016, 01:13 PM | #44 |
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It's the Hoosier A-compound competitor, or at least was when introduced. They fall off dual driving in autox for 10 runs -- can't imagine they're happy to do a 20min session on track.
Yes, you need a hoosier r7 or BFG R1. |
The Following User Says Thank You to e1_griego For This Useful Post: | Pat (06-02-2016) |
06-02-2016, 03:44 PM | #45 |
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Thanks. I am learning this. I've never had a tire in this class before so it's all new to me. It certainly isn't my first choice given how I use the car, but I got a set from a friend for cheap so figured it was worth a shot.
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06-02-2016, 04:11 PM | #46 |
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If you've got antoher cheap set I'm looking for take-offs
hahaha. |
06-03-2016, 05:30 PM | #47 | |
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0a) To determine the optimum tire pressures for your car and your driving, take tire temperatures with a probe pyrometer, and take them as instructed by the pyrometer manufacturer. Unless blessed with unusual talent, there is no shortcut. 0b) For road courses, the manufacturer's recommended pressure ranges virtually always apply. This assumes a conventional-style setup and driving, which you have. Anecdotal autocross data is not likely to be useful in this regard. 1) "[as of 2015] They are four years old..." Throw 'em out and get something fresh(er). I say this as someone who has many hundreds of laps on these tires, in time trials and in extended time trial practice sessions. These are 4-5 HC tires to start with, and with a noticeable change in response from HC to HC. They may be approaching hockey puck status by now. Use the fingernail test to verify current softness. You could use a durometer, but you'd need base data for comparison. 2) Above 80-degrees ambient, these get pretty iffy for road course work. I should have, but never checked track surface temps to correlate the two (i.e., track surface temp is the data point that governs). 3) Yes, that was OPR. Have probe pyrometers been mentioned yet? Seriously, the probe pyrometer will speed your way through the minefield. I use this one because it will record a full set of twelve temps and four pressures in one pass around the car: http://www.longacreracing.com/produc...21&prodid=7339. It will pay for itself with a better set-up car. You can find the pyrometer/pressure gauge for $100 off in Longacre's refurb catalog, which is where I've bought every piece of Longacre equipment that I own. It's on page 16: http://www.longacreracing.com/Userfi...BC_catalog.pdf. Grab it before someone else does! Last edited by dradernh; 06-04-2016 at 02:11 AM. |
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06-04-2016, 12:10 AM | #48 | |
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06-04-2016, 02:37 AM | #49 |
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I actually have a full set of R1 S take offs available. They're 235/40R17 (I'll double check the size to be sure).
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04-30-2019, 06:14 PM | #50 | |
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I ran a season of road racing in my previous race car (ITA prepped CRX) with BFG R1S and Hoosier R7. That was a 225 on a 7" wheel and what I learned was that the R1S needed to be driven with more slip angle compared the R7 and at about 2-3 fewer PSI when hot. My R7 was fastest on that car at 38ish and the R1S like 34-36 (27ish cold). As for their durability as a track or road race tire - the T4 national runoffs champion (Oscar) was on R1S's. I like them about as much as I liked the R7, it just took me some time to adjust the slightly greater slip angle necessary to reach their peak G. Now that I have a heavy car (FRS) and I'm squeezing 245's onto a 7" wheel (because rules) I've need to relearn the tire and how to maximize that width on that rim. I have 3* of camber all around and ran the tires at 37-40 hot and wasn't happy. I think I may add another half degree up front (3.5*) and pull 3-5 psi out of them on my next go around and see how that goes.
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04-30-2019, 07:08 PM | #51 |
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Unfortunately I don't have any more experience with them.
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