My experience after spinning a bearing

[Capt Spaulding]

Originally Posted by humfrz

Yep, your story will need some work:

San Antonio, Texas, August, during the heat wave of 20XX, at least 112 degrees F.

One car, unventilated garage with uncured, rough concrete floor.

Wrenches were from K-Mart, with pieces missing; screwdrivers from Target, with broken handles.

Water was "gray" water, the wife had bottled up to use to water the plants.

There, that ought to keep your story moving along .......


humfrz

If you actually drink the water more than the story will be moving along ... and swiftly.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by TEWwild

Air Force

Originally Posted by humfrz

Thanks for serving our country .........

Ok, enough chit chat, ladies. Add yourself to the duty roster.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Ok, enough chit chat, ladies. Add yourself to the duty roster.

Ladies my ass, back in the day, this army soldier could whip, 4 sailors or 3 airman or 2 marines ......


humfrz

[Icecreamtruk]

Cool story, really good doc and glad you pulled it off. Nothing like being able to fix something seemingly too hard by yourself.

By the way, for those asking about oil consumption, mine uses around 1qtz every 2 month more or less, which is usually 3 to 6 track days. And for those suggesting to change oil before/after track, what do you think my pockets are made of? I cant change oil twice a week cant I?

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by humfrz

Ladies my ass, back in the day, this army soldier could whip, 4 sailors or 3 airman or 2 marines ......

Regular army? Oh, please.

[TEWwild]

Well the saga continues...went to the track as planned. Took it easy for the first session, came in reviewed data, saw no issues. Shot the shit for a couple hours, went back out, 3 laps in and something broke.... Consensus there is most likely a rod bolt let go, apparently you're not supposed to reuse them.... So here I sit back in the garage (this time they let me borrow a suburban and trailer). Pulling the motor tonight to see what broke, don't have to be at work until tomorrow night..... If I don't respond to comments, please understand I'm going to be busy for awhile....

[Ultramaroon]

Shiiiiiiiit! Too late but study the parts breakdowns carefully. The big black dot is the key.

https://demos.starbase7.net/t3Portal...00T4V07IX.html

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Regular army? Oh, please.

Yep......Infantry


humfrz

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by TEWwild

Well the saga continues...went to the track as planned. Took it easy for the first session, came in reviewed data, saw no issues. Shot the shit for a couple hours, went back out, 3 laps in and something broke.... Consensus there is most likely a rod bolt let go, apparently you're not supposed to reuse them.... So here I sit back in the garage (this time they let me borrow a suburban and trailer). Pulling the motor tonight to see what broke, don't have to be at work until tomorrow night..... If I don't respond to comments, please understand I'm going to be busy for awhile....

Well, that's too damn bad .....

However, it's all part of the learning process.

The first large engine I overhauled, at about age 14, was a gas, inline 6, Oliver tractor engine.

When I put the rod caps with new bearings back on, I tightened them down good-n-tight. The engine wouldn't turn over (hand cranked engine).

The fellow at the parts store made me aware of shims that are needed between the rod caps and the rods. Yep, gave me a handful of shims and a length of the red, plastic string stuff and a gauge to determine how much the rod bearing was being squished when tightened down.

OK, my father was not happy with me, because he thought it was going to be a simple, relatively inexpensive valve job ........ NOT a rebuild of the lower end .... so, I got carried away ......

Well, TEWwild, at least the second tear down and rebuild should go faster.....


humfrz

[TEWwild]

here we go again




Found the culprit, no broken bolts.... #3 rod cap cooked

[TEWwild]

#3 Rod cap removed, 2 halves of the bearing seem to have overlapped

[TEWwild]

Crank Journal.... Now I have a question here. It is my understanding the bearing material is softer than the journal and will go before damaging the journal. Is it possible the ridges are all bearing material and can be removed to reveal an undamaged journal. I wiped some with a rag and there seems to be a nice polished surface beneath. I understand if the rod contacted the journal there may be damage but I did shut her down pretty quick this time... Any thoughts

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by TEWwild

Crank Journal.... Now I have a question here. It is my understanding the bearing material is softer than the journal and will go before damaging the journal. Is it possible the ridges are all bearing material and can be removed to reveal an undamaged journal. I wiped some with a rag and there seems to be a nice polished surface beneath. I understand if the rod contacted the journal there may be damage but I did shut her down pretty quick this time... Any thoughts

If you managed to cut it before the journal got mangled too badly you may very well be able to save it.


Just spit balling here and I didn't go back and read your write up to see what parts from what engine you actually used but you did mention that the new engine was from a car with fire damage. Is it possible that some of the parts of the new engine suffered heat damage? Unlike heat from when the engine is running a fire can create very isolated hot spots which could cause damage that isn't obvious with an examination. Such hot spots could explain the mystery "weld splatter" material you found in the valve seats. This could be way off base for your current issue but thought it was worth mentioning since other things could fail down the road.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by TEWwild

Crank Journal.... Now I have a question here. It is my understanding the bearing material is softer than the journal and will go before damaging the journal. Is it possible the ridges are all bearing material and can be removed to reveal an undamaged journal. I wiped some with a rag and there seems to be a nice polished surface beneath. I understand if the rod contacted the journal there may be damage but I did shut her down pretty quick this time... Any thoughts

Unless you just get a kick out of rebuilding that engine, I suggest you take the crank into a machine shop and have them resurface that journal. If, after they clean it up, it measures to within specs, you should be good to go.


humfrz