Direct Injector Seal Installation | Video and Issues

[suaveflooder]

Just checked mine @xjohnx, I'd be interested to know the failing injector number too. Mine say "2" on the side as well

[xjohnx]

Originally Posted by suaveflooder

Just checked mine @xjohnx, I'd be interested to know the failing injector number too. Mine say "2" on the side as well

just to clarify, we don't know if the issue is isolated to one set or not yet. I don't believe it has either been proven or disproven yet.

[suaveflooder]

Originally Posted by xjohnx

just to clarify, we don't know if the issue is isolated to one set or not yet. I don't believe it has either been proven or disproven yet.

Oh, yeah, yeah . I am just curious, like you, if the failure have a particular injector (since the video states they are specific and can't be swapped for a different number). There should be no reason why those who have had theirs fail can't check. It can be seen without removing anything.

[wootwoot]

I like the thinking here. Perhaps one of the numbered injectors were poorly sealed and/or machined. This would account for the variance we see in the video in terms of seal fit. Some seals seemed to fit better than others.. Perhaps it is just a bad batch... Hence why Toyota isn't making a big deal of it because they know it is an isolated issue.

The above is PURE speculation!

[suaveflooder]

Mine. Pretty easy to see the number if you know what you are looking for. Drivers side front injector's number can be seen easily from the front of the car with a light.



Just need @CSG Mike and @track_warrior to see what their numbers are.

[Porsche]

Dezoris,

Thank you for your splendid videos. They are professional looking, polished, interesting, and helpful. They're a pleasure to watch.

Now, about that injector seal installation: I suspect that you may have done it wrong. I cannot be certain, of course, since I've never had my hands on that tool or injector, so … what do I know, eh?

Still…

I cannot believe that's the way that installation tool is supposed to work. After seeing the instruction diagrams, I can understand why you guys THOUGHT you were doing it right, but I think the technical writer and illustrator may need to look for a different line of work, because their description was ambiguous at best and misleading at worst.

There are two parts to the injector seal installation tool: the male part that is the shaft, and the female part that is the cylindrical disk with the hole in the center.


My thought is that it should be employed as follows:


*****


Lube the shaft and the hole in the cylinder.


Stand the shaft upright, fat end at the bottom.


Slide the seal down the shaft gently, aligning it, but NOT pressing down on it. Leave it where it comes to a stop.


Slide the cylindrical disk down the shaft ABOVE the seal. The seal is now holding the cylinder up.


Perch this assembly atop the injector.


Press the cylindrical disk downwards, PRESSING THE SEAL DOWN ONTO THE INJECTOR with the cylindrical disk. The DISK is the PRESS … not your fingernails.


*****





Pressing the seal down onto the injector tip will take all of two seconds. The disk will press it evenly and smoothly downwards onto the injector. The seal will not be stretched out for a long time, as it was with your method, and thus be loose-fitting when we want a snug fit; and the seal will not be chewed up by one's fingernails.

What do you think?

I’m trying to be helpful here.

I respect and appreciate your enthusiasm, time, effort, and skills devoted to helping others on these forums. You're a real asset here, and you deserve recognition for your efforts.


Thanks again.

[regal]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

I am pretty positive the African TSB is real as posted. It would be a very elaborate fake.

Going to say this based on experience, take it for what its worth. I have a very close friend who works for a large Japanese company, in the American division in the engineering complaint department. .

I have much experience with Japanese OEM automotive engineering also. One thing they are very disciplined about is standardization. With Toyota its either a TSB or it isn't no grey area this is very much their philosophy.

What we have from South Africa is a memo from a field engineer (more of a sales guy), knowing Toyota as I do my guess is they are not happy this is public as I have been told personally that Toyota OE Engineering doesn't recognize the memo. No one is saying its a fake, but it isn't endorsed by corporate. Like you say Toyota is very methodical and they will solve the problem but that memo is not to be taken seriously yet.

Also the post above mine is correct you didn't use the tool properly.

So when you have time should edit all of that where you have are using the tool backwards and correct saying there is a TSB.

We do appreciate the videos, DI is new to the world so don't cancel Turbosky's check for the lack of insight with the tool

[romin]

My journey started with CEL 0351.
I then had the popping intake noise and some misfire codes.
I replaced my coils with better after market coils and the codes, misfires, and popping sounds went away.
No issues at all for multiple days on the track.

Then Track Warrior blew his engine.
Talked with him and found he had a missing seal.
Pulled my DIs and found I also had a missing seal (cylinder 1) and a fouled plug.

My injectors had a #2 on them.
We replaced all of the seals and one injector.
The dealer sold me a 16611JB010 replacement DI - Later I learned about the 1,2,3 DI numbers.
I have since added an oil cooler, and the South African flash fix.
Two days on the track and everything is working well now.

[Dezoris]

@regal @Porsche

I read your post Porsche and I was thinking that I hope I did not do it wrong. Because we looked at the service manual about 20 times during and before.

It's partially my fault for not posting the service manual up in the first place so here it is:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...06&postcount=2

I reviewed it and it is done correctly so I don't want to cause confusion here.

The circular disk with the bevel cannot be slid down the cone or seal holder as the cone is larger than the hole of the circular press.

As you can see on this picture it will not slide past that part of the holder. Its a bottom up press procedure.
Makes good common sense why you would think it could be done in reverse but the tool is not designed that way.

[suaveflooder]

Originally Posted by romin

My journey started with CEL 0351.
I then had the popping intake noise and some misfire codes.
I replaced my coils with better after market coils and the codes, misfires, and popping sounds went away.
No issues at all for multiple days on the track.

Then Track Warrior blew his engine.
Talked with him and found he had a missing seal.
Pulled my DIs and found I also had a missing seal (cylinder 1) and a fouled plug.

My injectors had a #2 on them.
We replaced all of the seals and one injector.
The dealer sold me a 16611JB010 replacement DI - Later I learned about the 1,2,3 DI numbers.
I have since added an oil cooler, and the South African flash fix.
Two days on the track and everything is working well now.

Just curious how you got your hands on that tune? My dealers (I went to multiple) said they had never heard of it. We went down the lists of TSB's and there wasn't one that looked like the south african one. Closest we got was a re-flash for the DI relay.

[Tim_Asphalt_FRS]

Originally Posted by suaveflooder

Just curious how you got your hands on that tune? My dealers (I went to multiple) said they had never heard of it. We went down the lists of TSB's and there wasn't one that looked like the south african one. Closest we got was a re-flash for the DI relay.

x2


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[romin]

Originally Posted by suaveflooder

Just curious how you got your hands on that tune? My dealers (I went to multiple) said they had never heard of it. We went down the lists of TSB's and there wasn't one that looked like the south african one. Closest we got was a re-flash for the DI relay.

I got the fix though a third party tuner (Visconti).
Subaru hasn't helped me at all on this, or any, issue so far.
If my engine blows I know they aren't going to warranty it.

[Kodename47]

Copied from the UK forum:
Seems that most of the nurburgring rental firms that had Brz's / GT86's have withdrawn them (e.g. they are now no longer listed or available with rent4ring for instance).

Bit of digging round on the internet seems to suggest it was due to frequent engine issues (basically going pop) - the DI issue seems to be the main culprit

[DJCarbine]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

@regal @Porsche

I read your post Porsche and I was thinking that I hope I did not do it wrong. Because we looked at the service manual about 20 times during and before.

It's partially my fault for not posting the service manual up in the first place so here it is:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...06&postcount=2

I reviewed it and it is done correctly so I don't want to cause confusion here.

The circular disk with the bevel cannot be slid down the cone or seal holder as the cone is larger than the hole of the circular press.

As you can see on this picture it will not slide past that part of the holder. Its a bottom up press procedure.
Makes good common sense why you would think it could be done in reverse but the tool is not designed that way.

Just to add to this, I thought you used the circular tool to press the seal further down the shaft as well. It makes more sense using it below the seal area... once the seal is on the injector its most likely stretched out a bit. The circular tool may help conform it back to its original shape, as evidenced by the bevel that is on the tool. It expects something slightly larger, and the act of sliding it past the seal should make sure that the seal is the correct shape/size.

Again, pure speculation but it makes more sense than using it to help press the seal down the shaft