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Old 01-08-2015, 12:26 PM   #29
wootwoot
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Originally Posted by Enalband24 View Post
Well, I've been in the market for an oil pressure gauge recently, figured it would be a good idea to monitor the pressure, especially with the tendency of the oil temps to rise so easily in this vehicle. So I picked up an AEM digital oil pressure gauge and mounted it in the CravenSpeed flexpod mount after seeing the flexpod in @Dezoris and @Tye300's 86's. So here are my thoughts on both.

CravenSpeed Flexpod Mount:

I found this pod set up to be excellent overall. The adjustable pods allow the gauges to be right where you need them to be visible, and out of the way of vital instrumentation on the cluster (depending on your steering wheel height). The mount is stout and made out of aluminum which has a black matte finish (very clean in my opinion). I had two small issues. 1. The bolts they supplied were too long and allowed the pods to be loose when the bolts were fully tightened into the mount (I ended up sourcing my own shorter bolts). 2. When properly tightened, the steering would hit the bezel on the AEM gauge, there was not enough clearance (I found some small washers and placed them on the bolt in between the pod and mount to set the gauges back a bit farther). As I said though, I am very happy with the flexpod mount, solid mounting solution.





AEM Oil Pressure Gauge:

I'm not really sure what to think yet. I love that it is digital. However, my oil pressures seem to be pretty jumpy, it is never just on a number. It is constantly changing numbers with a range of +/- 10psi from the ideal pressure. I can't imagine my pressure is ACTUALLY fluctuating this much. I am wondering if this is due to having the sensor mounted in the oil galley plug, or simply because it is a digital gauge, or bc it is a POS. Not sure. I sourced the proper extension bolt to use the TRD sandwich sensor plate in conjunction with the mocal thermostatic sandwich plate. I will try moving the sensor to the sandwich plate and see if that helps. I will report back.

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v...07945125781915

**I will post pictures up later, no pics, no proof**
I think you should see something very low at idle and then the pressure should rise about 10psi per 1000rpm. Is that about what you see? I think the oil gallery is considered the best location for the pressure sender as it gives your reading right where the bearings are at. Also, I had all kinds of fitment issues with that pod as well. Had to hack and grind on it to make it fit. It is a good concept but it's executed very poorly I think. I got it to work and am ok with it now, much like you.

Last edited by wootwoot; 01-08-2015 at 12:41 PM.
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Old 01-08-2015, 03:36 PM   #30
Enalband24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wootwoot View Post
I think you should see something very low at idle and then the pressure should rise about 10psi per 1000rpm. Is that about what you see? I think the oil gallery is considered the best location for the pressure sender as it gives your reading right where the bearings are at. Also, I had all kinds of fitment issues with that pod as well. Had to hack and grind on it to make it fit. It is a good concept but it's executed very poorly I think. I got it to work and am ok with it now, much like you.
I am indeed seeing that from what I can make out on the fluctuating gauge. I have read that as well, that the gallery plug is the best place to measure from due to its location relative to the bearings. However, I am wondering if we can read from a sandwich plate and just take into consideration the difference in pressure between the locations. So add Xpsi to whatever the readings are, and that is *roughly* what is at the bearings. I just want a more stable reading so I can actually read the damn thing.

Ahhh, it sounds like you might have had more fitment issues than I did. Mine wasn't too too bad. I did consider dremeling the steering wheel a bit to add clearance before I thought about sticking the washers in there. Glad to hear you made it work though.
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Old 01-08-2015, 06:15 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enalband24 View Post

CravenSpeed Flexpod Mount:

I found this pod set up to be excellent overall. The adjustable pods allow the gauges to be right where you need them to be visible, and out of the way of vital instrumentation on the cluster (depending on your steering wheel height). The mount is stout and made out of aluminum which has a black matte finish (very clean in my opinion). I had two small issues. 1. The bolts they supplied were too long and allowed the pods to be loose when the bolts were fully tightened into the mount (I ended up sourcing my own shorter bolts). 2. When properly tightened, the steering would hit the bezel on the AEM gauge, there was not enough clearance (I found some small washers and placed them on the bolt in between the pod and mount to set the gauges back a bit farther). As I said though, I am very happy with the flexpod mount, solid mounting solution.





AEM Oil Pressure Gauge:

I'm not really sure what to think yet. I love that it is digital. However, my oil pressures seem to be pretty jumpy, it is never just on a number. It is constantly changing numbers with a range of +/- 10psi from the ideal pressure. I can't imagine my pressure is ACTUALLY fluctuating this much. I am wondering if this is due to having the sensor mounted in the oil galley plug, or simply because it is a digital gauge, or bc it is a POS. Not sure. I sourced the proper extension bolt to use the TRD sandwich sensor plate in conjunction with the mocal thermostatic sandwich plate. I will try moving the sensor to the sandwich plate and see if that helps. I will report back.

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v...07945125781915

**I will post pictures up later, no pics, no proof**
Your pod is backwards thats why you have screw length isssues. I did the same thing.

Here is a pic of how the pod should be, kind of hard to see but you get it


Last edited by Dezoris; 01-08-2015 at 06:34 PM.
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Old 01-09-2015, 08:51 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dezoris View Post
Your pod is backwards thats why you have screw length isssues. I did the same thing.

Here is a pic of how the pod should be, kind of hard to see but you get it

@Dezoris, thanks for the picture! It all makes sense now, haha.

It's funny, here I am thinking I'm clever putting the washers there to make it work....nope, just have it backwards!
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Old 01-09-2015, 06:08 PM   #33
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@Dezoris, thanks for the picture! It all makes sense now, haha.

It's funny, here I am thinking I'm clever putting the washers there to make it work....nope, just have it backwards!
No issue like I said I did the same crap and was like what is wrong this piece of shit. And I just looked at it for a while and was like, ooohhh it's impossible this could be my fault.
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Old 01-10-2015, 12:18 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Enalband24 View Post
@Dezoris, thanks for the picture! It all makes sense now, haha.

It's funny, here I am thinking I'm clever putting the washers there to make it work....nope, just have it backwards!
Haha don't worry! I had the same experience. Once I saw the steering wheel hit the gauges, I tried flipping it and boom! Good call on the washers though!
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Old 01-16-2015, 01:55 PM   #35
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Update:

Driveshaft shop axles, and Kaaz 2 way Super Q diff installed along with the Weir Performance 4.56 final drive. Still in the process of breaking in the new gears. It's so hard not to get on the gas...especially when I am only going 58mph on the highway.

The assembly of the differential went pretty smooth. As mentioned earlier, I followed @Dustin's DIY. I ended up with 0.051" of pinion shimming, and 0.237" of carrier shimming. My backlash was approximately 0.006 - 0.0088". The FSM states a required backlash of ~0.005 - 0.007". The Weir Performance instructions states a required backlash of 0.008 - 0.010". I went with a happy medium as suggested by Spence at Weir. No whining so far, so it seems as though the backlash was OK, time will tell however. I don't think I will have any problems, but will report back after break in. My final numbers while checking the torque at the pinion nut was ~32-34 in*lbs. This was in the range for all new bearings. After checking the contact, it seems the pinion could have been a bit deeper, however, I did not have the proper shims to adjust the depth. At the end of the day, I was fairly happy with the contact, especially after checking it against multiple pictures of acceptable contact patterns.

FYI, the pinion nut torque values @Dustin has listed in his DIY are for USED bearings, just be aware. I was going off his values, and when everything was preloaded, I was getting numbers way higher than his, I started to worry. I then checked the FSM and found I was within the range for new bearings. So again, just an FYI.











Now, installation of the diff into the car was a bit more difficult in my opinion. Ran into a few snags during. First, for whatever reason, someone did not lube the axle splines that interface with the hub on the drivers side - had to beat the axle out. The biggest issue though, was the fact that my perrin 3" cat back had issues clearing the larger MAP rear diff cover. We had to heat up the exhaust pipe and beat a good 1/4 - 1/2" radius into it as well as dremel some of the fins off the back left corner of the cover. Still, at the end of the day, it all got put together and I couldn't be happier.





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Old 05-15-2015, 11:19 AM   #36
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Sorry, haven't updated in a while. But, in short, there has been much going on with the car. I will post a more detailed update soon, but for now, here's what we have. I recently added the Ptuning water methanol kit, soon to be tuned by moto-mike. I threw on the 3.15" vortech pulley and had moto-mike tune the car, finally adding in my flex fuel kit from him. Damn, this car PULLS on E85. I cant wait to see how it does with the wmi. I also added the VIS vented hood. Love it, will post pics soon. Also plan on switching out the trunk for the VIS AMS carbon fiber trunk soon. More to come!
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Old 05-15-2015, 11:23 AM   #37
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OH! And I am installing KW V3's today along with Vorshlag camber plates in the front, and SPL LCA's and Toe Arms in the rear. Will post pics!
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Old 05-16-2015, 04:16 PM   #38
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are the toe arms necessary in the rear with lca's? Looks good man, although many of the pictures do not work.
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Old 07-20-2015, 09:22 AM   #39
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are the toe arms necessary in the rear with lca's? Looks good man, although many of the pictures do not work.
Long story short, it depends. Mainly on how much you lower the car. Toe and camber affect one another, so if you lower the car enough that you need the LCA's to correct camber, you will more than likely need the toe arms to correct toe, when correcting camber. Do a search, you should find the limits of the stock suspension with regards to adjustment. I took the "why not" attitude. I like the idea of having full adjustment over the suspension, allowing me to fine tune it.
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Old 07-20-2015, 09:28 AM   #40
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Again, sorry for very little posting lately. Again, much going on with the car. Finally got the VIS Racing AMS carbon fiber trunk installed, changed the spark plugs out for the HKS super fire plugs (same heat range as stock), swapped my perrin oil cooler for the FBM version, swapped my perrin shift knob for a Raceseng one, and bought a couple 55 gallon barrels of E98 (actual E85, when you can get it, is INSANE).

In the works: Front and Rear STi Brembo swap with DBA T3 5000 series lightweight rotors (next month or so), built motor and heads from element tuning (winter), and sadly, swapping the vortech kit for FBM's stage 2 turbo kit (winter). Going for high HP/torque next spring, stay tuned!
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Old 01-07-2016, 09:06 AM   #41
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Update!

Pulled the engine over the holidays. Being sent out today to Element Tuning for a full build!



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Old 01-07-2016, 12:29 PM   #42
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Woah! Was your engine going out, or did you just decide to get it built?
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