STX Rules and Setup Questions

[ksconekiller]

Setup question... My car is pushing (understeers) in medium to high speed transitions (I notice it most in elements that are like offset slaloms with ~100 ft. spacing). It seems okay in slower stuff. I'm looking to have better front end bite for sharper turn-in. The car has 7k/6k springs with a front Strano bar and stock rear bar. 17x9 Enkeis & 245 Bridgestones running 30/29 pressure on good concrete. My gut says to start with a larger adjustable rear bar. Thoughts?

[jbailey8748]

Hows your alignment?

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[strat61caster]

@ksconekiller

Seconded on the alignment, I went from wicked understeer to some oversteer to neutral just by adjusting camber over two events.

[trippinbillies40]

For the transitional stuff, I would worry less about camber and more about toe. Smidge toe out up front does a turn in good.

[ksconekiller]

Camber is -3.1f/-2.0r. Toe is 1/16" out front and 0 rear.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by ksconekiller

Setup question... My car is pushing (understeers) in medium to high speed transitions (I notice it most in elements that are like offset slaloms with ~100 ft. spacing). It seems okay in slower stuff. I'm looking to have better front end bite for sharper turn-in. The car has 7k/6k springs with a front Strano bar and stock rear bar. 17x9 Enkeis & 245 Bridgestones running 30/29 pressure on good concrete. My gut says to start with a larger adjustable rear bar. Thoughts?

Originally Posted by ksconekiller

Camber is -3.1f/-2.0r. Toe is 1/16" out front and 0 rear.

I'm honestly afraid to post this since I'm a n00b and everything I'm saying can totally be easily contradicted but this is my gut on what I'd do if I was handed your car for the day.

First off bump up the rear pressure, or better yet drop the fronts so they are even, that should get you a bit better bite up front and some more rotation out of the rear, this one I'm totally certain of. You could also try bumping the rear pressures up to be greater than the fronts but I think that while it may help get the characteristics you are looking for going more than +1 or +2 psi would be slowing you down.

My understanding is a stiffer sway bar serves to reduce roll, you keep the car flat and weighted evenly, in a sense this can lessen the potential grip you could achieve. Given that you have big sticky tires in a relatively light car I'd be trying to lean on them hard, I'd pull the strano bar off and go back to stock for a session if you have that kind of time to monkey around.

Our setups are very different and I have less grip than you but when my camber was up at -2.7 degrees I struggled with turn in as well (especially on slaloms), there was inconsistency, reducing the camber to ~-2.5 degrees really helped the front end find itself. Check your tire temperatures coming off to see if you're overworking the inside edge, coincidentally this could yield a lot of other info too, but if the inside edge is much higher on your fronts I would assume you've got too much camber. Hell, it might tell you that you don't have enough for all I know, what I am sure of though is that tire temperatures never ever lie. But they can be misinterpreted.

http://949racing.com/using-a-tire-py...49-Racing.aspx

[autoXracer]

Originally Posted by ksconekiller

Setup question... My car is pushing (understeers) in medium to high speed transitions (I notice it most in elements that are like offset slaloms with ~100 ft. spacing). It seems okay in slower stuff. I'm looking to have better front end bite for sharper turn-in. The car has 7k/6k springs with a front Strano bar and stock rear bar. 17x9 Enkeis & 245 Bridgestones running 30/29 pressure on good concrete. My gut says to start with a larger adjustable rear bar. Thoughts?

The rear swaybar fixed the understeer in mine. We have a similar setup; spring rates, front bar, wheels & tires and alignment. Ended up using a whiteline 18mm rear bar on soft setting with a touch of rear toe in.

[ksconekiller]

Originally Posted by autoXracer

The rear swaybar fixed the understeer in mine. We have a similar setup; spring rates, front bar, wheels & tires and alignment. Ended up using a whiteline 18mm rear bar on soft setting with a touch of rear toe in.

Kinda what I was thinking. I'm going to try the 18mm bar and see if that takes care of it. Thanks.

[Jawnathin]

I am considering going STX for next year. Currently a C Street car.

Looking up parts now to get a ballpark estimate in what it will cost me to prep the car. Lots of coilover options with wildly different price points. Any recommendations on which coilovers to buy or warnings of which ones to stay away from?

Thanks.

[RTR]

Originally Posted by Jawnathin

I am considering going STX for next year. Currently a C Street car.

Looking up parts now to get a ballpark estimate in what it will cost me to prep the car. Lots of coilover options with wildly different price points. Any recommendations on which coilovers to buy or warnings of which ones to stay away from?

Thanks.

My homework led me to RS-R sports i. And I couldn't be happier. Just remember that you get what you pay for.

[Jawnathin]

Thanks. Completely agree that you get what you pay for. Would love to hear if there are certain setups to get or avoid, even with the more expensive sets.

For example, MCS and Ohlins are all around $3k mark. Unclear to me if there is a 'best' between those two and if its worth it over STs or KW v3s for $1500~ or $2000~.

[e1_griego]

I'm also new to STX (and in week 2 of BRZ ownership) -- been playing in SM with my S13 for the last 5-6 years, though.

I'm putting in my MCS order today, fwiw. Drove an NA miata with a set and they are lovely. My friend has a set of doubles on his ESP '15 Mustang and the car is incredible: he pax'd 5th or so at the Packwood Tour event. They're within spitting distance of a set of Tarmac IIs so good enough for me.

My BRZ is mostly going to be a street driven car, but my 17x9 +35 rpf1s will be here next week, I have a set of 255 RS3s already laying around from my last car, and I figure MCS and a few other bits and bobs will set me down the path. I'll wait a bit for the header and tune but for local (rougher) lots that I won't take my 240 to (because it's a full spherical car and the rough lots tend to wear out bearings quickly) it'll be fine and should be plenty of fun.

[Jawnathin]

Thanks. Where are you finding the 17x9 +35 RPF1s? TireRack only has the +45s.

I would want the +35s so they can clear a BBK, right?

[TallTerror13]

Originally Posted by Jawnathin

Thanks. Where are you finding the 17x9 +35 RPF1s? TireRack only has the +45s.

I would want the +35s so they can clear a BBK, right?

I ordered mine from Oakos Automotive. Great selection, awesome price!

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