05-12-2014, 02:31 AM | #127 | |||
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10 days now and no resolution? Have you tried "tightening everything properly" as recommended by the Phantom's #1 salesman? |
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05-12-2014, 03:00 AM | #128 |
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Thanks Freddy for your insightful and thoughtful comments. Car is still not running and I have run out of ideas. I've removed the ESC and put most everything back to stock. I'm sure it has nothing to do with the ESC. It seems to be a fuel delivery problem but the fuel pump seems to be OK and I don't have the tools to delve deeper into the matter. Probably will have to take it back to the dealer.
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05-12-2014, 03:49 AM | #129 | |
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I asked this a few days back, then @Sojhinn asked a couple of days ago as well, you never replied to either.
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05-12-2014, 07:26 AM | #130 | |
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If your in a clean enviroment open air box remove filter spray a bit of engine start or petrol in atomiser spray bottle into intake while someone cranks car if it kicks and fires it is probably fuel problem if its still dead it likely ignition spark. Re check the easy stuff batt volts under cranking load, fuses then just bite the bullet and take it to another dealer now its back to stock. Hopefully privacy laws will stop them sharing info :-):-) |
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05-12-2014, 10:55 AM | #132 |
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Everything is back to stock including the battery location.
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05-12-2014, 11:12 AM | #133 |
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Sorry but you need to try the old basic troubleshooting steps:
1 - Does it have spark? Pull a plug wire (coil pack) and stick a spare spark plug in it. Lay the plug on a metal surface so it touches (grounds). Crank the engine and have someone watch for spark. 2 - Does it have Fuel Either try the starting fluid trick ( a tiny spray) and see if it kicks. If it does not, dont keep spraying Or you can connect what is known as a "noid light" to one of the injector connectors and see if if blinks when cranking ( I think these cars use the DI injectors to start - you need to know which injector to check). You can usually borrow one at a FLAPS. You never answered my questions about your log above. It could be something as simple as the clutch engagement switch (if stick) or neutral/park lockout (if auto). Please tell us exactly what is happening now. Cranks & sputters, but no run? No crank? Crank but no sputter, etc? |
05-12-2014, 11:15 AM | #134 |
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Cranks and sputters. Doesn't run for more than two seconds.
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05-12-2014, 01:02 PM | #135 |
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05-12-2014, 01:21 PM | #136 |
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Big Problem
Chances are slim but try blowing out your filter. I doubt it's clogged but worth a shot.
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05-12-2014, 03:17 PM | #137 |
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What stugray suggested are great starting points. Fuel, ignition and oxygen is the basic needs of an engine, I think it's at least worth a try before taking it back to the dealer.
Hope out all works out for you.
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05-12-2014, 05:14 PM | #138 |
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agreed, If it runs for up to 2 seconds you are getting spark(unless the ecu is cutting it). I would have to lean tward fuel(or ecu control of fuel). did you ever run e85? try the starting fluid or take it to a new dealer and cross your fingers.
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05-12-2014, 07:00 PM | #139 |
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Also, from that freezeframe data it looks like it was taken at the very end of an attempt to start the car, the battery voltage reads ~5 volts and only ~8 when the starter relay goes off. It almost looks like a bunk battery, pretty sure you are looking for 10+ volts even while cranking
The battery current is also weird, -7 amps? I would think the starter would draw a lot more than that Have you tried a brand new battery?
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05-12-2014, 07:21 PM | #140 | |
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But it shouldn't crank over and start at all right?
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