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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous


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Old 03-28-2016, 02:40 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrk1 View Post
I run a VTA can and just replaced the valve with a hose fitting of the correct threads, boom done.

I did it just for simplicity, one less thing to fail.
We did the same thing with both our race cars.
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Old 03-28-2016, 03:11 PM   #16
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Most factory turbo cars get around this by having the PCV vent before the compressor inlet so the valve never sees boost, only atmospheric pressure or vacuum. Many people still install catch cans to avoid sucking oil into the turbo and ultimately coating the intercooler with oil. It's possible to install a catch can that does not vent to atmosphere though. That's what I did on my MR2.
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Old 03-28-2016, 03:54 PM   #17
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The problem is not the material of the valve, plastic, metal, solid gold. The problem is the circuit was never intended to see positive pressure. Its not rocket science but it needs to be rearranged for boost.

Drilled out stock piece, no plastic



Plunger is metal, sticks to a magnet just fine

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Old 03-29-2016, 11:20 AM   #18
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If people are paying for a "metal upgrade" what can I sell this High Flow Fully Ported valve for?

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Old 06-25-2016, 07:53 PM   #19
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Where is this pcv located?

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
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Old 09-07-2016, 05:21 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by The Racers Line View Post
You don't replace the stock one because it is plastic, you replace it because it was never meant to see boost, so it opens up(under even 1psi from my testing) and lets boost into the crank case (bad)

A 19mm deep socket and a medium extension will get the old one out (it will be tight, but comes out) Screw the new STI one in by hand and then tighten down with the socket/ratchet.
Do I retain the stock one of I have a boomba valve. I'm running with a radium dual catch can set up


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Where is this pcv located?

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The passenger side hose on the intake manifold cover, follow it down and on the block is the factory PCV.
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Old 09-07-2016, 05:22 PM   #21
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Do I retain the stock one of I have a boomba valve. I'm running with a radium dual catch can set up
Yup you are good with the boomba valve.
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Old 09-08-2016, 03:58 PM   #22
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Yup you are good with the boomba valve.

So leave the stock valve in place and run the Boomba inline with it?


Also thanks!
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Old 09-08-2016, 04:23 PM   #23
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So leave the stock valve in place and run the Boomba inline with it?


Also thanks!
Yes
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Old 12-08-2017, 07:04 PM   #24
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Yea idk who said the stock PCV is plastic; it is very much metal. I put in the one from the FA20F WRX.

Any reason they say to use the STI one? Is it better? Didn't even realize those were compatible.
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Shouldn't be much difference. WRX/STI, both were made to see boost, so they both work for the application.
I bought the STI PCV valve for the EJ PN 11810AA040 and the spout was much smaller than the hose. PN 11910AA141 for the FA in the WRX has a proportionally fatter spout based on pics. Can anyone confirm the part numbers?
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Old 02-05-2019, 09:36 PM   #25
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Got a few private messages about this. Confirming part number 11810AA141 fit when I installed it.
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Old 07-28-2020, 03:10 AM   #26
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should this the right part#? 11810AA131

https://www.blingstrom.com/diy-proje...0the%20vehicle.
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Old 04-06-2022, 10:52 PM   #27
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Got a few private messages about this. Confirming part number 11810AA141 fit when I installed it.
So we should get the FA - 11810AA141 and not the EJ 11810AA040, am I correct?

Thanks!
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Old 04-07-2022, 07:30 AM   #28
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You guys should just consider just modifying the PCV system so it's the same as on a WRX/STi. VTA is going to create unwanted crankcase pressure vs vacuum. I definitely recommend managing the blow-by with a can or AOS to scrub clean before going back into the engine. Many more benefits to running a closed loop system.

Nice thing about the FA is the internal baffling is pretty good. The venting capacity could be better (and changing some parts can help that), but it spews WAY less than an EJ engine!
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