Any mods planned?

[iDriveFast]

I/H/E

[Levi]

My FT-86 is getting Powerhose Amuse CF hood, lid, roof, doors and titanium headers and catless full exhaust system.

[Random_Art]

Stage 1: Driver Education-
Team O'Neil Rally school

Stage 2: Suspension and IHE-
Polyurethane bushings
Tein SS Coilovers
Hotchkis Street Sway Bars
Whatever ebay intake most closely resembles the name brand with the best gains and doesn't pull air from under the car. Its a tube with a filter, I don't need to pay $200+ for it.
PPE Engineering EL Headers (assuming they make one)
The rest of the exhaust I'll probably fabricate myself until I decide to go for Titanium for more weight savings.
Stand alone CPU so I can actually tune it.
Wheels: depends on what I like that's reasonably priced and under 18lbs that will fit this car
Tires: Falken Ziex512 or g-Force T/A KDW 2
Adjustable camber links/bolts. No sense in blowing through tires just because the car was dropped an inch.
Shorter tranny gears.
Short Shifter
Slotted Brake rotors
Goodridge Steel brakelines
EBC Yellowstuff Brake pads

Stage 3: Weight savings
Rip out rear seats
Swap out fronts for reclining racing buckets
Rip out interior paneling and sound deadening material
Relocate battery to behind passenger seat
Carbon Fiber Fenders, trunk, hood, roof, doors(maybe), and body kit (depending on if carbon fiber bumpers are actually lighter than stock or not)
Carbon/titanium Drive shaft.
Fidanza lightweight Flywheel
Southbend Clutch


Stage 4: More Powah!
Cams
Titanium valves, springs, and retainers
Bore out the block to a higher displacement (ultimately depends on how much it can safely be bored) with pistons to match.
Connecting rods, depending on how beefy the originals are
Upgrade bearings
High Flow intake manifold
Port and polish the heads
Rotrex C30-94
Upgrade fuel pump?
Front mount intercooler
Transmission and oil coolers
Dual Core aluminum radiator
Rip out AC (maybe)

Other things that may get added if needed:
Carbon Fiber front splitter
APC GTC-200 Adjustable Wing
Strut tower bars
Rear Diffuser
Big brake kit

[bofa]

^ That's a lot of stuff. How long are you planning on taking to do all of this? Did I miss the FI? Saw FMIC but no FI. Why rally school? Not trying to sound critical - just curious.

BTW I hate my BFG KDW 2s... loud as hell for a DD. Tread life seems decent though and traction is pretty good dry/wet around town. Not sure how well they hold up at the track.. maybe someone else here does.

One thing you mentioned that could be interesting is to see how much it can be bored out and the potential gains to be had. I think previous subie 2.0 were typically pushed to 2.2. I'd really like to see 2.5. I've seen some 350Zs bored to 4.2 and TT... craziness.

[Random_Art]

Originally Posted by bofa

^ That's a lot of stuff. How long are you planning on taking to do all of this? Did I miss the FI? Saw FMIC but no FI. Why rally school? Not trying to sound critical - just curious.

BTW I hate my BFG KDW 2s... loud as hell for a DD. Tread life seems decent though and traction is pretty good dry/wet around town. Not sure how well they hold up at the track.. maybe someone else here does.

One thing you mentioned that could be interesting is to see how much it can be bored out and the potential gains to be had. I think previous subie 2.0 were typically pushed to 2.2. I'd really like to see 2.5. I've seen some 350Zs bored to 4.2 and TT... craziness.

The FI (assuming you mean Forced Induction) is the Rotrex unit. http://www.rotrex.com/Home.aspx
I chose the O'neil rally school because they train you to drive FWD, RWD, and AWD through some of the roughest road conditions you can encounter. The skills can translate well to just about any other type of driving you can encounter. And I love rally racing

As for the Tires, I've never actually had a set of the BFG KDW's It was one of the tires that I decided on a while back, but ended up not coming in the size for my car, I think it was back when I had my protege5. That's when I ended up with a set of the Falkens which I've been using ever since. Its reasonably priced, decent grip, and doesn't wear down too fast for a street car.

How long this is going to take? Years. I'm not going to do all this at once unless I win the lottery.

[bofa]

Sorry, I totally overlooked the Rotrex. I wonder how good the stock differential will be. I had about 8k in parts for my first Z sitting in my garage when it was lemon lawed... I was traveling 100% then so I didn't get another car for about a year. I ended up selling it all for my second bike. Ended up selling that and can't remember for the life of me what I spent that money on... wished I had saved those parts. It's so easy to get into mod mode, especially when you frequent forums like these though. Should be fun...

[Levi]

For the EJ20 there is a 2.2l kit, and for EJ25 a 2.6l kit.

[ichitaka05]

Originally Posted by Levi

For the EJ20 there is a 2.2l kit, and for EJ25 a 2.6l kit.

You mean 2.7L? iirc Crowford, Cosworth or somewhere did make 2.7L upgrades

[Dimman]

Originally Posted by Random_Art

Stage 1: Driver Education-
Team O'Neil Rally school

Stage 2: Suspension and IHE-
Polyurethane bushings
Tein SS Coilovers
Hotchkis Street Sway Bars
Whatever ebay intake most closely resembles the name brand with the best gains and doesn't pull air from under the car. Its a tube with a filter, I don't need to pay $200+ for it.
PPE Engineering EL Headers (assuming they make one)
The rest of the exhaust I'll probably fabricate myself until I decide to go for Titanium for more weight savings.
Stand alone CPU so I can actually tune it.
Wheels: depends on what I like that's reasonably priced and under 18lbs that will fit this car
Tires: Falken Ziex512 or g-Force T/A KDW 2
Adjustable camber links/bolts. No sense in blowing through tires just because the car was dropped an inch.
Shorter tranny gears.
Short Shifter
Slotted Brake rotors
Goodridge Steel brakelines
EBC Yellowstuff Brake pads

Stage 3: Weight savings
Rip out rear seats
Swap out fronts for reclining racing buckets
Rip out interior paneling and sound deadening material
Relocate battery to behind passenger seat
Carbon Fiber Fenders, trunk, hood, roof, doors(maybe), and body kit (depending on if carbon fiber bumpers are actually lighter than stock or not)
Carbon/titanium Drive shaft.
Fidanza lightweight Flywheel
Southbend Clutch


Stage 4: More Powah!
Cams
Titanium valves, springs, and retainers
Bore out the block to a higher displacement (ultimately depends on how much it can safely be bored) with pistons to match.
Connecting rods, depending on how beefy the originals are
Upgrade bearings
High Flow intake manifold
Port and polish the heads
Rotrex C30-94
Upgrade fuel pump?
Front mount intercooler
Transmission and oil coolers
Dual Core aluminum radiator
Rip out AC (maybe)

Other things that may get added if needed:
Carbon Fiber front splitter
APC GTC-200 Adjustable Wing
Strut tower bars
Rear Diffuser
Big brake kit

Or you could save yourself some money and just buy a used Ferrari F430...

That's some serious dollars you're spending there!

[Random_Art]

A good portion of that list probably won't ever happen. But, if I'm going to have a fast car, I'd rather it be something that I built or modded to make fast with my own hands and tools. I've never been that interested in super cars. The always seemed like it was less "hey, look my car is awesome and I know every bolt on it and how to drive it" and more "Hey look, I have boat loads of cash and no taste!"

[Dimman]

Originally Posted by Random_Art

A good portion of that list probably won't ever happen. But, if I'm going to have a fast car, I'd rather it be something that I built or modded to make fast with my own hands and tools. I've never been that interested in super cars. The always seemed like it was less "hey, look my car is awesome and I know every bolt on it and how to drive it" and more "Hey look, I have boat loads of cash and no taste!"

I just saw "titanium" everywhere and immediately thought $$$$$$. Heh.

Here's an exhaust tip if you're going to fab your own: A weight/cost compromise between titanium and 'ordinary' 16 gauge 304 stainless steel is to use 20 gauge 321 stainless steel. It is far more corrosion resistant and stronger at high temp than 304. This allows you to use thinner wall tubing and thinner flanges. 16 gauge is about .065" thick wall, whereas 20 gauge is .035" thick wall. It's not going to be quite exactly half the weight, but it will be much less.

But more expensive than 304.

[serialk11r]

Hey why don't people use aluminum exhaust? It's not like the pipe needs to be strong, even at higher temperature, aluminum is corrosion resistant, and weighs close to nothing...if you polish it well it looks just as shiny as stainless steel, probably more shiny since it has lower coefficient of absorption.

[Dimman]

Originally Posted by serialk11r

Hey why don't people use aluminum exhaust? It's not like the pipe needs to be strong, even at higher temperature, aluminum is corrosion resistant, and weighs close to nothing...if you polish it well it looks just as shiny as stainless steel, probably more shiny since it has lower coefficient of absorption.

Expands and contracts too much with temp changes. Weak when hot. Probably severe corrosion issues when hot, too.

There are aluminum race mufflers, but a full exhaust wouldn't last very long.

[Random_Art]

Originally Posted by Dimman

I just saw "titanium" everywhere and immediately thought $$$$$$. Heh.

Here's an exhaust tip if you're going to fab your own: A weight/cost compromise between titanium and 'ordinary' 16 gauge 304 stainless steel is to use 20 gauge 321 stainless steel. It is far more corrosion resistant and stronger at high temp than 304. This allows you to use thinner wall tubing and thinner flanges. 16 gauge is about .065" thick wall, whereas 20 gauge is .035" thick wall. It's not going to be quite exactly half the weight, but it will be much less.

But more expensive than 304.

Thanks for the tip!