Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[cruizin01]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

They're designed around stock rears, which can also be swapped with the Brembo 2 piston rear. In theory, you could also use the Brembo 2 piston rear with the stock front, although I don't think anyone would actually do this; the system is designed to retain stock bias, regardless of how you "lego" the system together.

If you're used to driving properly bedded race pads on the street, the included pads with the CSG Brembo GT kit will be no problem for you. You'll get minor squeaks here and there at very low speeds, but no banshee howl. If you'd prefer, you can exchange those pads for pure street pads at no cost, to reduce noise and dust further.

Pads for the CSG Brembo GT are shared with every major 4 piston Brembo caliper on the market, including OEM.

I would expect to see a substantial pad use drop with this kit compared to Wilwoods, as well as superior braking feel, modulation, and consistency, as well as much lower temperatures for the same amount of braking stress.

Any OE replacement rotor can be used, as well as OEM, but due to the sheer capacity of this kit, you will not be needing rotors very quickly. Brembo replacement rotors are $330 each, but I've never seen them needing replacement with less than 30+ days at this time, and pretty much everyone with a CSG Brembo GT kit is tracking their cars seriously with nice race pads.

Thanks for the detailed response. Ill be pulling my wilwoods before too long and will be replacing them before next season. I had planned to run AP as that seemed to be the recommended setup but now I see your brembo setup that comes in a little cheaper with hopefully similar performance aside from weight.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Pat

Capacity? That makes me think of the ability of the rotor to absorb and shed heat. Is that what you're referring to? If so, how is this kit any different than OEM if it can use OE replacement rotors? I'm missing something here.

The Caliper is significantly different from the OEM PP Brembo. Rigidity and capacity are on a while different level.

If you want to get into more technical details, it's shared with a Ferrari F40 and Lamborghini Gallardo. The piston sizing is changed to match this platform.

Seriously not kidding about the above.

[Pat]

Thanks, Mike. What do you mean by "capacity"?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Pat

Thanks, Mike. What do you mean by "capacity"?

Ability to absorb heat and maintain rigidity.

[n0thing]

By installing the Crawford manifold spacer, the powerband is shifted to the left by about 500rpm. Along with an UEL (not EL/Ace) and OFT tune adjustment, it'll probably improve the mid range. Would this make sense on the track though? The mid range should help corner exit, but at the cost of top end. Also, for straight line acceleration, would you now shift earlier, say 7k or even 6.5k, instead of redline?

Or would it be better to install the new red manifold?

[Takumi788]

I am looking for some sway bars and was wondering what you would suggest for my car. Looking for a set with full track use in mind as 95% of my driving is on the track. I was about to pull the trigger on the RCE sways but figured I would ask you guys first.

2800 lbs full tank and me in it
I run 255/40/17 RE71Rs (200tw)
Custom valved Coilovers w/Front 400, rear 450 lbs/in Swift springs
Check my build thread in my sig if you need other info.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by n0thing

By installing the Crawford manifold spacer, the powerband is shifted to the left by about 500rpm. Along with an UEL (not EL/Ace) and OFT tune adjustment, it'll probably improve the mid range. Would this make sense on the track though? The mid range should help corner exit, but at the cost of top end. Also, for straight line acceleration, would you now shift earlier, say 7k or even 6.5k, instead of redline?

Or would it be better to install the new red manifold?

It would not, unless you have a specific need to shift early.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Takumi788

I am looking for some sway bars and was wondering what you would suggest for my car. Looking for a set with full track use in mind as 95% of my driving is on the track. I was about to pull the trigger on the RCE sways but figured I would ask you guys first.

2800 lbs full tank and me in it
I run 255/40/17 RE71Rs (200tw)
Custom valved Coilovers w/Front 400, rear 450 lbs/in Swift springs
Check my build thread in my sig if you need other info.

The better question is why do you want, or think you want, sway bars?

[kch]

How do I determine when my AP CP8350 calipers need to be sent in for rebuilding? After my first winter up here I've found some small rust spots on the pistons, but everything is still functioning properly with no change in feel.

edit: calipers have maybe 30k miles on them, with roughly 25 days on track.

[n0thing]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

It would not, unless you have a specific need to shift early.

So improving mid range, or shifting the power curve earlier, is no good for tracking?

[kch]

Originally Posted by n0thing

So improving mid range, or shifting the power curve earlier, is no good for tracking?

I'm no expert, but I find myself very rarely under 4500 rpm on track.

[kch]

Originally Posted by n0thing

my caliper pistons are very stiff to retract, even when using the spreader tool, but braking operation feels fine...

Mine too. I really have to crank down on them with the spreader, even with the reservoir cap open.

[Takumi788]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

The better question is why do you want, or think you want, sway bars?

Great question.

Over the weekend I participated in both a track day and an autocross with brand new RE71Rs. Previously, I have been on a set of maxxis rc1s for the past 35+ track events. With the RE71Rs installed, I found myself stiffening the suspension quite a bit more than usual to get the car to behave as I like.

When I got to the point to where the car felt right I noticed I would loose grip (rather violently) mid-corner on flat corners. The only thing I can think to compare the violent loss of grip to would be like trying to slide a piece of tape across a table. It grips for a little bit, then abruptly lets go. But then it grips again, until it lets go.

It was minimal at the track but at autocross it seemed to be more of an issue. I talked to my teams engineer and he suggested that I continue stiffening the rear, run a stiffer spring rate or swap the sway bars. So I figured I would try the sway bars first because they are still stock.

[n0thing]

Originally Posted by kch

I'm no expert, but I find myself very rarely under 4500 rpm on track.

at the track, I was never under 4500, but 4500-6000 (mid range) seems to be where most corner exits are at, so I figure it should help with exit speeds.