Door Lock Actuator - Repair Manual Request

[Kayysonie]

Originally Posted by fuddbutter

I have had both mine replaced under warranty, first one went, no idea how long my was unlocked for before i realized.
Passengers side was done first, drivers two weeks later the drivers side went on me.
Been paranoid they will die again now its out of warranty.

Yeah mine started happening around 37k just right after my warranty expired.

I researched everywhere on how to replace it and it literally tells you to remove everything on the door. Strip it all the way. Even remove the glasses and window lift motor just to get to that door lock mechanism.

Luckly, I have experience doing it as I had to help strip my friends FRS for a race car conversion. It just takes a long time and putting them back together is a different story.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Kayysonie

Luckly, I have experience doing it as I had to help strip my friends FRS for a race car conversion. It just takes a long time and putting them back together is a different story.

If you're really patient you can disassemble the latch. Maybe something is just binding. I got an extra few years out of one on a Camry.

Wouldn't count on it though.

[Kayysonie]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

If you're really patient you can disassemble the latch. Maybe something is just binding. I got an extra few years out of one on a Camry.

Wouldn't count on it though.

I thought about that but still you have to get that whole latch assembly out of the doors...which means you have to take the whole door stuff out (window glass, regulator, motor, etc)

I work for a company that does door lock. I would just find a motor sitting in the office and swap worms if I could.

[fuddbutter]

Originally Posted by Kayysonie

Yeah mine started happening around 37k just right after my warranty expired.

I researched everywhere on how to replace it and it literally tells you to remove everything on the door. Strip it all the way. Even remove the glasses and window lift motor just to get to that door lock mechanism.

Luckly, I have experience doing it as I had to help strip my friends FRS for a race car conversion. It just takes a long time and putting them back together is a different story.

That sounds painful, Hopefully the replacements last longer.

I was glad it did it just before my warranty ran out..
unlike my water pump, that went a month after it finished..

[Kayysonie]

@Tcoat @Ultramaroon

I have to revive this thread as I finally did fix it and did investigation.

The main culprit is the motor. Grease built up on the commutators that prevents full contact to drive the motor. The worm gear or connections are totally fine.

I completely replaced the whole door lock assembly (40 bucks used on EBay). Replacing it was really easy. I just didnt want to do the work of removing the panels, window, and part of the regulator assembly. But I was bored and the car was sitting in the shop.

I tried mending the old one but it was impossible to open the door lock housing with out breaking tabs and ruining part of the mechanism inside. I knew I wasn't going to get it back together so I just tore it apart.

With my background with motors, I opened it and immediately found the issue. Cleaned the commutator and the motor works fine now but I cannot put it back together.

There you have it. If anyone wants to do this, it's easy. 2 years of procrastination didn't help.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Kayysonie

There you have it. If anyone wants to do this, it's easy. 2 years of procrastination didn't help.

Oh well, better late than never. Makes perfect sense. Interesting failure mode. Sloppy application during assembly, or design oversight allowing grease to sling in there?

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Kayysonie

@Tcoat @Ultramaroon

I have to revive this thread as I finally did fix it and did investigation.

The main culprit is the motor. Grease built up on the commutators that prevents full contact to drive the motor. The worm gear or connections are totally fine.

I completely replaced the whole door lock assembly (40 bucks used on EBay). Replacing it was really easy. I just didnt want to do the work of removing the panels, window, and part of the regulator assembly. But I was bored and the car was sitting in the shop.

I tried mending the old one but it was impossible to open the door lock housing with out breaking tabs and ruining part of the mechanism inside. I knew I wasn't going to get it back together so I just tore it apart.

With my background with motors, I opened it and immediately found the issue. Cleaned the commutator and the motor works fine now but I cannot put it back together.

There you have it. If anyone wants to do this, it's easy. 2 years of procrastination didn't help.

So that was probably why it was sporadic at first. If it stopped in the wrong place it wouldn't work. If it stopped where clear it would. Eventually the whole thing just got so gunked up it didn't matter where it stopped. Makes sense. Thanks.

[Kayysonie]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Oh well, better late than never. Makes perfect sense. Interesting failure mode. Sloppy application during assembly, or design oversight allowing grease to sling in there?

It can be anything. There are many materials in the car that can outgas "silicone" which is basically grease. Over time it can get to the motor which is the failure for this. To fail at 36k though it is probably assembly and they just added too much grease and migrated to the motor.

Probably a bad batch or something but not a lot of people get them.

[Kayysonie]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

So that was probably why it was sporadic at first. If it stopped in the wrong place it wouldn't work. If it stopped where clear it would. Eventually the whole thing just got so gunked up it didn't matter where it stopped. Makes sense. Thanks.

Yep exactly. When I ran it first just motor only, the motor didnt run but once I spun it a little it moved.

[fuddbutter]

So, 2 years after having mine replaced, they are playing up again..

And I doubt Subi will care about any warranty after i told them to get fucked and trying to screw me over. .

I reckon i could rebuild the existing one, but need a spare, just in case..

[InspGadgt]

Originally Posted by Kayysonie

@Tcoat @Ultramaroon

I have to revive this thread as I finally did fix it and did investigation.

The main culprit is the motor. Grease built up on the commutators that prevents full contact to drive the motor. The worm gear or connections are totally fine.

I completely replaced the whole door lock assembly (40 bucks used on EBay). Replacing it was really easy. I just didnt want to do the work of removing the panels, window, and part of the regulator assembly. But I was bored and the car was sitting in the shop.

I tried mending the old one but it was impossible to open the door lock housing with out breaking tabs and ruining part of the mechanism inside. I knew I wasn't going to get it back together so I just tore it apart.

With my background with motors, I opened it and immediately found the issue. Cleaned the commutator and the motor works fine now but I cannot put it back together.

There you have it. If anyone wants to do this, it's easy. 2 years of procrastination didn't help.

I was able to figure out how to get the lock actuator out of the door without taking out the glass. But after examining the housing I couldn't find a way to safely take it apart to fix the motor so it looks like I'll be replacing the actuator as well. Any idea what the part number is? I've found used ones on e-bay but they don't list the part number and I'd like to try O'Reiley or Napa to see if I can get a remanufactured part.

[InspGadgt]

Anyone have a part number for the lock assembly?

[rtalich]

Just started experiencing this issue :-(

[Kayysonie]

Originally Posted by InspGadgt

Anyone have a part number for the lock assembly?

Just look up BRZ door actuator in Ebay.