Best Oil for turbo engine.

[Astroboy]

Originally Posted by Reaper

Castrol is old school tech with new marketing. Motul or amsoil still rains supreme. If youre not tracking or on e85 you can bump you oci up drastically with either. As long asbits not their race oil. Nothing wrong with Toyota oil either.

Do you think it's a bad to still be running the 0w20 synthetic oil by Toyota in an frs pushing 257whp.

[Astroboy]

Originally Posted by Manji

We have tried several different grades of oil. All Motul.
H Tech 0w20
H Tech 5w30
300v 0w20
300v 5w30

After analysing all, we now run 300v 5w30 in both NA and turbo applications.

Our results mimick Toyota Racing NZ, who run 5w30 in the TR86 race cars.

Stick with 0w20 if your car is mostly a street vehicle, and is NA. It will provide marginally better fuel economy. Which is essentially why it is the factory fill weight.

Whar if my car is mostly street used but also turbochargerd?

[Fastbrz]

Originally Posted by Astroboy

Whar if my car is mostly street used but also turbochargerd?

I would imagine 5w30 would be best. It's what I have used when it was stock and when I went forced induction. 22,000 miles and counting no issues.

[blackfireball5]

I use 5w30.

[Astroboy]

Originally Posted by Fastbrz

I would imagine 5w30 would be best. It's what I have used when it was stock and when I went forced induction. 22,000 miles and counting no issues.

Do u daily drive it? What part of Texas are you from.

[Reaper]

Castrols base stock is made using a process that many top oil companies used to do years ago but have stopped and moved on.

[Poodles]

Originally Posted by Reaper

Castrols base stock is made using a process that many top oil companies used to do years ago but have stopped and moved on.

Outdated info and doesn't cover their European line.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by Astroboy

Whar if my car is mostly street used but also turbochargerd?

Go with a Euro xW-30 like Euro Castrol 0W-30 or Motul X-Lite 0W-30. Skip any oil labeled as Resource Conserving/GF5 because they all pretty much shear to a 20 grade after hard driving in a turbo, which is what they are designed to do.

Brand doesn't matter. You can also blend your own xW-30 by combining Mobil1 0W-20 and M1 0W-40. Mobil1's 0W-30 is a bit light which is why I wouldn't run it (unless you add some M1 0W-40 to it or Mobil1 Racing 0W-30).

-Dennis

[Astroboy]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

Go with a Euro xW-30 like Euro Castrol 0W-30 or Motul X-Lite 0W-30. Skip any oil labeled as Resource Conserving/GF5 because they all pretty much shear to a 20 grade after hard driving in a turbo, which is what they are designed to do.

Brand doesn't matter. You can also blend your own xW-30 by combining Mobil1 0W-20 and M1 0W-40. Mobil1's 0W-30 is a bit light which is why I wouldn't run it (unless you add some M1 0W-40 to it or Mobil1 Racing 0W-30).

-Dennis

Carp, I already went with Motuls 8100 5w30. And winter is arriving here in Dallas. Should I worry

[Fizz]

After looking around I think I'll be going with Amsoil Signature Series 0W30 for my FI build. Has anyone had any experience with them on this engine?

Seems to have good balance of HTHS 3.1, high TBN 12.5, low NOACK 7.6 and VI is 170. But they're like US$15/quart.

Redline is even more expensive down here....their 5w30 is around US$20/quart.

A cheaper Ester based alternative for us would be an Penrite Racing 5w30 (US$60 for 5 litres) but I can't really find much reviews about it. Plus they don't provide any HTHS value for it, and their zinc levels are pretty high.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by Fizz

After looking around I think I'll be going with Amsoil Signature Series 0W30 for my FI build. Has anyone had any experience with them on this engine?

Seems to have good balance of HTHS 3.1, high TBN 12.5, low NOACK 7.6 and VI is 170. But they're like US$15/quart.

Redline is even more expensive down here....their 5w30 is around US$20/quart.

A cheaper Ester based alternative for us would be an Penrite Racing 5w30 (US$60 for 5 litres) but I can't really find much reviews about it. Plus they don't provide any HTHS value for it, and their zinc levels are pretty high.

Just keep your intervals short on SSO. I tried 7,500 mile intervals in my EJ turbo and it was a bit much for the oil based on uoa's. I've stuck with at least a 3.5 HTHS oil, and shorter intervals, in my turbo since then.

I don't think there's a problem with running high zinc levels as a lot of people run Motul 300V and Red Line. For the cost, I would go with Penrite Racing, as long as it has enough detergents for the street.

Holy mackerel. It has double the zinc of Red Line and Motul 300V!
http://www.penriteoil.com.au/pis_pdf...ULY%202014.pdf

This oil is more like Red Line Racing as opposed to regular Red Line. It does say on road and off road so I presume it has enough detergents for the street.

-Dennis

[pleong]

I'm running AMSOIL 15w50 Racing oil. I'm pushing ~515whp and it's held up really good.

[Fizz]

Just received my OUA and the report doesn't seem very good. Here are the details:

Engine: 13,000 miles (FI since 11,000 miles)
Engine oil: Redline 5w30 (2000 miles on this oil)

water 0
lead 1
calcium 2603
oxidation 123
boron 0
zinc 1048
molybdenum 140
copper 2
fuel dilution 2
Viscosity at 100 9.6
phosphorus 0
magnesium 8
tin 0
nickel 2
TBN 9.1
nitration 11
sodium 5
aluminium 3
silicon 29
iron 9
FTIR soot 9.7
chromium 0

"Silicon is at 29ppm. Silicon is a highly abrasive material and can cause accelerated wear. Check air intake system. Viscosity @40 decreased to 54cst. 2% Fuel Dilution Detected. The presence of fuel can indicate faulty injectors, pumps or liners leading to poor combustion. Excessive idling/incorrect timing could also be a possibility. Oxidation and Sulphation are elevated. Oxidation is caused by abnormal combustion, high temperatures, oil aeration and high levels of copper. This can increase oil viscosity and leave piston deposits causing piston rings to stick."

@bluesubie @viscositosis.rex

[Astroboy]

Originally Posted by Fizz

Just received my OUA and the report doesn't seem very good. Here are the details:

Engine: 13,000 miles (FI since 11,000 miles)
Engine oil: Redline 5w30 (2000 miles on this oil)

water 0
lead 1
calcium 2603
oxidation 123
boron 0
zinc 1048
molybdenum 140
copper 2
fuel dilution 2
Viscosity at 100 9.6
phosphorus 0
magnesium 8
tin 0
nickel 2
TBN 9.1
nitration 11
sodium 5
aluminium 3
silicon 29
iron 9
FTIR soot 9.7
chromium 0

"Silicon is at 29ppm. Silicon is a highly abrasive material and can cause accelerated wear. Check air intake system. Viscosity @40 decreased to 54cst. 2% Fuel Dilution Detected. The presence of fuel can indicate faulty injectors, pumps or liners leading to poor combustion. Excessive idling/incorrect timing could also be a possibility. Oxidation and Sulphation are elevated. Oxidation is caused by abnormal combustion, high temperatures, oil aeration and high levels of copper. This can increase oil viscosity and leave piston deposits causing piston rings to stick."

@bluesubie @viscositosis.rex

So what are going to do? Switch to a different grade?