CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[smbstyle]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

We can get any rate you want.

We use Swift, Hyperco, Eibach, and KW springs.

Yes with r-comps you might want something a little firmer.

PM or call...Myles has been all over the place with KPAX recently but things should settle down soon. I'm trying to keep up with PMs in the meantime.

- Andy

Thanks Andy, I'll give you a guys a shout soon to discuss.

[retrosmiths]

I have 17x9 +45 RPF1, LCA and camber bolts. 225/45 tires. I had the suspension parts installed by West End and the Chris said that after the adjustment, my front tires are running very close to hitting/rubbing the OEM springs/shocks, so he was only able to set -1.25 front and -1.50 rear.

My question: would getting coils (say KW V3 or Tein SRC) require me to add a spacer (10mm)? Or will the coils themselves be enough?

[gramicci101]

Getting coils should make it easier to fit wide tires, as the coils are usually a lot smaller circumference than the OEM springs.

[Doozer]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Okay. Yes a front sway will help, but if you're running full stiff all around I would start by softening the rear (actually front too). If you have poor grip on entry AND can't put power down on exit then it's likely you're too stiff on dampers. Turning it down may seem counter-intuitive at the track but you'll have more grip.

I see people crank up the damper adjustment all the time to make up for springs that are too soft (which yours are in this case with those tires) and the results are not ideal....and often worse than just running the dampers set properly to match the spring rates.

Either increase spring rates to better control roll with your V710s and adjust dampers to match OR turn down your shocks now to match your springs and live with the springs being too soft.

Alternatively, front and rear swaybars could help add a little roll stiffness to make you happy but I'd still turn down the dampers a bit.

For what it's worth I don't remember the last time I've run a shock at full stiff.

- Andy

Thanks, we'll look into stiffer springs and let you guys know how everything works out

this board is awesome

[Kostamojen]

Originally Posted by Panman

Currently on STI Pink springs (15mm Drop) on std Shocks, whiteline front tower bar, will be adding either Subaru or Whiteline camber bolts to the front.

FYI, I just had my car aligned using the adjustable Subaru front camber bolts (not the crash bolts, not the whiteline bolts... the OEM adjustable bolts) and I'm on RCE Yellow springs:



Thats maxed out negative front camber, and rear camber obviously was not adjustable.

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by jdmblood

hell yea lmao. Got the Tokyo drift avatar and thanks for the advid. The bilstein b6s I believe are the lowering ones.

The B8 seems to have a shorter total length and more damping to accommodate for shorter firmer springs, but I'm not so sure if they will lower the car any more than stock or B6. If the distance between the perch and lower mounting holes are the same, they should not lower any more even if the upper mount to perch distance is shorter. I think the vendors that have these in stock can answer this better for you.

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by Kostamojen

FYI, I just had my car aligned using the adjustable Subaru front camber bolts (not the crash bolts, not the whiteline bolts... the OEM adjustable bolts) and I'm on RCE Yellow springs:



Thats maxed out negative front camber, and rear camber obviously was not adjustable.

So they just zeroed you front toe... and looks like your bolts probably got you less than 0.5 a degree of negative camber.

[Kostamojen]

Originally Posted by solidONE

So they just zeroed you front toe... and looks like your bolts probably got you less than 0.5 a degree of negative camber.

Yes. The whiteline bolts give a little more neg camber. The crash bolts as well but im no fan of putting too small of bolts in too big of hole. But I'm ok with these specs for my daily driver.

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by Kostamojen

Yes. The whiteline bolts give a little more neg camber. The crash bolts as well but im no fan of putting too small of bolts in too big of hole. But I'm ok with these specs for my daily driver.

You're talking about these bad boys on the right, right?

[Kostamojen]

Originally Posted by solidONE

You're talking about these bad boys on the right, right?

Yes sir. Nice and beefy. Its so strange they weren't included with the car in the first place, the struts/hubs are designed to fit that bolt...

[Kostamojen]

Question for RCE:

Have you tried the Yellow springs up front with the Tarmac springs in the rear?

I'm finding so far I preferred the BRZ front springs/FRS rear spring combo over the Yellows so far in terms of handling dynamics. I'm not sure what a rear sway bar will do yet, but I do want to go for the rear subframe bushings to help stabilize the rear a bit more.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Kostamojen

Question for RCE:

Have you tried the Yellow springs up front with the Tarmac springs in the rear?

I'm finding so far I preferred the BRZ front springs/FRS rear spring combo over the Yellows so far in terms of handling dynamics. I'm not sure what a rear sway bar will do yet, but I do want to go for the rear subframe bushings to help stabilize the rear a bit more.

In our testing phase we had a similar set-up...not quite as stiff as Yellow front Tarmac rear but close. It's okay...not as fast as what we settled on but more lively. Your idea is good but I wouldn't put Tarmac rears on stock shocks though...rates are too firm.

Ideally you'd have a little more front camber and then I think you'd be pretty happy! Right now your alignment is very understeer oriented.

- Andy

[Kostamojen]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

In our testing phase we had a similar set-up...not quite as stiff as Yellow front Tarmac rear but close. It's okay...not as fast as what we settled on but more lively. Your idea is good but I wouldn't put Tarmac rears on stock shocks though...rates are too firm.

Ideally you'd have a little more front camber and then I think you'd be pretty happy! Right now your alignment is very understeer oriented.

- Andy

I wanted more like -1.5 front camber or maybe less in the rear, but i'm currently not willing to run camber plates and this car is 98% daily driver (I do have fun with it every day though lol)

Its hard to describe it but right now the back end just feels soft and the weight transfer is slow. It could be a result of the heavy ass wheels but idk.

[Racecomp Engineering]

-1.5 front camber would be about perfect for you.

Swaybars would help, or better dampers. Dampers make a pretty nice difference if you're running heavy wheels actually.

- Andy