CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

So what you're saying is to find a new WRX and swap their LCAs for ours? I feel like the owner of the WRX might get upset at that, so it's best if he doesn't know.

Haha, well I don't think those would swap over easily.

It would be awesome though.

- andy

[stockysnail]

I'm guessing the only difference between the RCE yellow and RCE tarmac springs is the spring rate? The website lists yellow at 250lbs/in and the tarmac at 5kg. Could you fix it so they are in the same unit of measure so I and others have a better point of reference? I currently have the yellows mated to the Koni yellows and love them. I got them before the tarmac springs came out however so not sure if I'd like the tarmacs even more.

[Turkish]

Originally Posted by stockysnail

I'm guessing the only difference between the RCE yellow and RCE tarmac springs is the spring rate? The website lists yellow at 250lbs/in and the tarmac at 5kg. Could you fix it so they are in the same unit of measure so I and others have a better point of reference? I currently have the yellows mated to the Koni yellows and love them. I got them before the tarmac springs came out however so not sure if I'd like the tarmacs even more.

280 lb/in

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[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by stockysnail

I'm guessing the only difference between the RCE yellow and RCE tarmac springs is the spring rate? The website lists yellow at 250lbs/in and the tarmac at 5kg. Could you fix it so they are in the same unit of measure so I and others have a better point of reference? I currently have the yellows mated to the Koni yellows and love them. I got them before the tarmac springs came out however so not sure if I'd like the tarmacs even more.

That is a good point...sending a note to have them both listed in lbs/in.

And yes it's 280 lbs/in for the Tarmacs, same drop.

- Andy

[Turkish]

So I am exchanging the koni yellows for bilstein b8's to be paired up with RCE Tarmac springs. Should I expect to need to have the shocks revalved or will they be good to go for autox and daily driving out of the box?

[gramicci101]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

That is a good point...sending a note to have them both listed in lbs/in.

And yes it's 280 lbs/in for the Tarmacs, same drop.

- Andy

You might as well put both measurements on there. People will want to compare them to other companies' springs and every company does it differently.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Turkish

So I am exchanging the koni yellows for bilstein b8's to be paired up with RCE Tarmac springs. Should I expect to need to have the shocks revalved or will they be good to go for autox and daily driving out of the box?

I wouldn't expect to need the revalve. It would give you a little more of an edge, but I'd probably try it first.

- Andy

[Panman]

I'm looking for input on recommended "fast road" alignment for my car, effectively stock suspension, happy to add camber bolts either the Subaru Crash bolts or the Whiteline ones.


Would @Racecomp Engineering or @CSG Mike have any suggestions.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Panman

I'm looking for input on recommended "fast road" alignment for my car, effectively stock suspension, happy to add camber bolts either the Subaru Crash bolts or the Whiteline ones.


Would @Racecomp Engineering or @CSG Mike have any suggestions.

What do you like and dislike about your car's current setup? What kind of tires are you running? What kind of driving do you do? There's no one-size-fits-all with alignments.

[Panman]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

What do you like and dislike about your car's current setup? What kind of tires are you running? What kind of driving do you do? There's no one-size-fits-all with alignments.

Not unhappy with current setup particularly, but looking to optimize turn in a little more.


Tyres are currently Federal 595 RS-R in 225/40/18, going to Nitto Invo or NT05 on 17" when new wheels arrive. (225/45/17).


Driving: Occasional track, lots of canyon carving (Twisty hill driving), HPDE.


Currently on STI Pink springs (15mm Drop) on std Shocks, whiteline front tower bar, will be adding either Subaru or Whiteline camber bolts to the front.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Panman

Not unhappy with current setup particularly, but looking to optimize turn in a little more.


Tyres are currently Federal 595 RS-R in 225/40/18, going to Nitto Invo or NT05 on 17" when new wheels arrive. (225/45/17).


Driving: Occasional track, lots of canyon carving (Twisty hill driving), HPDE.


Currently on STI Pink springs (15mm Drop) on std Shocks, whiteline front tower bar, will be adding either Subaru or Whiteline camber bolts to the front.

Maximize that from camber with the bolt. Zero toe front/rear, but you MAY want to consider a tiny bit of toe-out to promote rotation. Try zero toe first; it may already be a bit looser than you're used to.

You won't have any adjustment except toe in the rear.

-Mike

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Panman

Not unhappy with current setup particularly, but looking to optimize turn in a little more.


Tyres are currently Federal 595 RS-R in 225/40/18, going to Nitto Invo or NT05 on 17" when new wheels arrive. (225/45/17).


Driving: Occasional track, lots of canyon carving (Twisty hill driving), HPDE.


Currently on STI Pink springs (15mm Drop) on std Shocks, whiteline front tower bar, will be adding either Subaru or Whiteline camber bolts to the front.

I'd say max out the camber bolt up front (keep it even), zero toe front, and a hair of rear toe-in. Rear camber is nonadjustable with your current set-up.

You won't have too much front camber, especially if you use the subaru camber bolt.

It will help turn-in and front/overall grip.

- Andy

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Maximize that from camber with the bolt. Zero toe front/rear, but you MAY want to consider a tiny bit of toe-out to promote rotation. Try zero toe first; it may already be a bit looser than you're used to.

You won't have any adjustment except toe in the rear.

-Mike

I think Mike likes more oversteer than me.

He's right though, if you can, try zero toe in the rear and see what you think.

- Andy

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

I think Mike likes more oversteer than me.

He's right though, if you can, try zero toe in the rear and see what you think.

- Andy

I think Mike likes more oversteer than most people who like oversteer. lol