I don't want to ruin my dream car.

[TruthfulDeception]

2013 FRS

Hello ft86. I just want to give a heads up and thanks to everyone that's helped me come thi sfar in deciding what/how to build. Here is my build:

**Exterior**

• Apr Performance Front Splitter: $450

• Shark Fin Antenna: $115

• Winjet Clear Fog Light Kit: $90

• Spyder Led Headlight W/ Halo (8000k): $900

• Valenti / Helix Black Lens Tail Lights (Black Edition): $350

• VIS AMS CF Trunk: $1000

• Valenti 4th Brake Light / Reverse Light (Black Gold Edition): $215

**Interior**

• Raceseng Ashiko Mt Shift Knob: $145

• Sparco Evo Ii Us Seats: $1700

• Sparco Seat Side Mounts: $190

• Works Bell Rapfix Short Boss/Hub: $190

• Works Bell Rapfix Steering Wheel Quick Release: $370

• Sparco R353 Steering Wheel: $300

**Suspension/Wheels**

• Enkei RPF1 (Dark Silver) 18x9.5 +38: $1600

• Michellin PSS 255/35ZR/18: $1040

• KW V3 Coilovers: $2500

• Whiteline Suspension Gearbox Shift Bushing: $50

• Radium Auto Strut Tower Brace: $350

• GTSpec Rear Adjustable Toe Arms: $300

• Spl Adjustable Lower Control Arms: $600

• Whiteline Control Arm Inner Bushing (Front): $65

• GTSPEC Rear Lower T Brace: $370

• Whiteline Front Vehicle Essential Kit: $300

• Whiteline Rear Vehicle Essential Kit: $420

**Performance**

o Kartboy Short Shifter W/ Mtec Shift Springs: $320

o Full Blown Radiator Kit: $750

o Tomei Expreme Equal Length Header: $750

o Mxp Dual Exit Catback Exhaust Ti Tips: $1000






This is something I'm serious about working on, testing, and accomplishing, in terms of a finished build.

My goal for this build is:

* Track a few times a month
* Driven a few times a week
* Fun. Not absurd power, but fun

My main question is whether or not I may be going overboard on parts. My goal is 400whp. I feel like that is suitable for these cars. I've ridden in one with ~280 and one stock. The 280 was fun, but I felt like there could be more and still be a fun DD. This car is a dream and prefer to keep it running for as long as possible, whilst also enjoying it as much as possible.

I'm primarily concerned about the transmission and stock engine around that point (400whp/~300lb/ft tq). I've heard of some people running up to 12psi and being okay, but I wouldnt want to risk it. I feel like 9:1 or even 9.5:1 would work best with a built engine, but not sure if it's worth the $9k to spend on a safety cushion. The transmission would be another concern. Even when driveshaft, clutch, and LSDs, I'm not too sure about the limits of the tranny/drivetrain.

I know with aftermarket seats, people say rollcage/roll bar, and I'm already in the talks with a local shop about a 6 point diagonal w/ padding.

Thank you all in advance for your help, it is greatly appreciated.

I'm editing the list as comments roll in. I'm aware I may be in over my head, I'm here to help solve that.

[wparsons]

That's a pretty random list of parts... if you're serious about tracking a 400whp FRS/BRZ, you should be looking more at what it will take to keep things cool in the engine bay. A rad and oil cooler alone aren't going to be enough.

What is the list based on? Unless you're adding things just for the sake of having them on a mod list, you could cut out A LOT of parts without affecting how well it drives.

You might want to rethink a shorter final drive with 400whp as well.

Also, the intake you listed won't work with the turbo kit...

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by TruthfulDeception

My goal for this build is:

* Track a few times a month
* Driven a few times a week
* Fun. Not absurd power, but fun

My main question is whether or not I may be going overboard on parts. My goal is 400whp.

I suggest you rethink your "goals", as 400RWHP is beyond absurd. It's like Ken Gushi/Dai Yoshihara absurd.

-alex

[TruthfulDeception]

@mav1178 okay, this is good. what is good for these? the 280 was fun, but i feel like a bit more would be better. goals are still the same in terms of fun and DD, but where can i cut out?

[TruthfulDeception]

@wparsons the list is a very rough sketch. Alex mentioned as well that I'm a bit over my head, and I'm willing to accept that. As I mentioned to him, the 280 felt like a little more would be enough. Where can I "come back down to earth"?

[go_a_way1]

Originally Posted by mav1178

I suggest you rethink your "goals", as 400RWHP is beyond absurd. It's like Ken Gushi/Dai Yoshihara absurd.

-alex

My end goal is 400Whp FRS in 10-15+ years when its a full track car (the kind you tow to the track)

[go_a_way1]

Originally Posted by TruthfulDeception

@mav1178 okay, this is good. what is good for these? the 280 was fun, but i feel like a bit more would be better. goals are still the same in terms of fun and DD, but where can i cut out?

If you want 400whp and DD you can count reliability out hahaha!! Honestly your list was too long for me to bother read. Start with track time stock and go from there. Only then will you find what you truly need to add. Also cut any cosmetic mods to save coin.

[TruthfulDeception]

@go_a_way1 Thanks for the insight. I'll definitely reconsider. What would you recommend then, in terms of me obtaining a fun DD-ish track car? Like what should I go with instead of a FBM stage 1 premium/stage 2 setup?

[go_a_way1]

Originally Posted by TruthfulDeception

@go_a_way1 Thanks for the insight. I'll definitely reconsider. What would you recommend then, in terms of me obtaining a fun DD-ish track car? Like what should I go with instead of a FBM stage 1 premium/stage 2 setup?

for a fun DD/track car there is no need to add more power. This car is a momentum car. It is built to reward a skilled driver on the track. Your best bet is to become a better driver rather then throw parts at it. On the flip side staying NA is better for DD in terms on reliability as well as maintenance because going FI requires a lot more maintenance.

[TruthfulDeception]

@go_a_way1 ok, so just be a better driver, maybe a few mods here and there outside of performance, like wheels/tires/suspension, and move on further down the road? I like that, thanks for the help, it really does mean a ton.

[continuecrushing]

this build list looks complete.

How are you solving the cricket problem?

[swarb]

Your list is at around 33k not including labor and headaches. On a stock block... You are better off just buying a used/built car. Or just getting a used c5 z06 and have two cars that are both reliable.

[TruthfulDeception]

@Shutter I edited the build a lot since I posted thanks to the guys up top haha. The crickets issue isn't too prevalent for me, not as loud as what others are dealing with for sure. But I usually have music on and it's not too bad.

[go_a_way1]

Originally Posted by TruthfulDeception

@go_a_way1 ok, so just be a better driver, maybe a few mods here and there outside of performance, like wheels/tires/suspension, and move on further down the road? I like that, thanks for the help, it really does mean a ton.

Be VERY careful with suspension and wheels. It is easy to screw up. Wide does not mean fast. Stiff does not mean fast. There are a lot of other factors. Took me over a year to plan my suspension/wheels and I am just getting it all on my car now. am I ever glad I took the time to learn about everything from roll centers to scrub radius's. I would start by just driving it and if you find the limit of something (i.e. riding bumpstops during coroners) Then look into buying some nice coilovers then you will likely want better tire compound to compliment the stiffer spring rates ect. Alsp DO NOT buy cheap parts. please save your money and buy quality parts it will make your life much better I promise hahaha!! Also dont forget to have fun with it!