So scion tried to screw me today (SoCal)

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Porsche

I have not said this, but I'll say it now. While I cannot know for certain what the dealership was charging for the car in those original scenarios the OP showed, because he failed to show exactly what extras were purchased ... it looks to me as though they were charging the OP more than MSRP for the car. For a 2013, now last year's car, that's not a good deal.

Another clue: They "pretended" they didn't know how much the car cost when the OP asked. Yeah? So, how did they compute the tax? On a mystery number?

Oh, please.

There are '13s in my area still listed at over $32k, before taxes, California dealers are fucked up. I found two for under MSRP and I suspect that those were heavily test driven, most are listed for over $26k.

http://www.cars.com/for-sale/searchr...AD&enableSeo=1

This is par for the course out here, disgraceful.

Edit: Completely agree with you though, if they can't tell you the price of the car walk out, they're wasting your time either through incompetence or malice, you shouldn't be giving them money.

[Porsche]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

There are '13s in my area still listed at over $32k, before taxes, California dealers are fucked up.

My computations suggest that $32-33k is around what the dealer was charging the OP.

It's capitalism. It's a free country. But, as I told my local dealers in 2012, when I was shopping, I don't hold it against them, but I won't buy it, either.

Maybe the CA dealers are hoping for some 19-year-olds to show up and still unload the 2012s at a premium price.

If the youngsters come here first, they'll learn that they can do better by shopping around extensively.

[fistpoint]

Originally Posted by alderaan34

Its not the dealer that sets the apr though, thats all handled by the financial institution that offers the loan. Its all about what the credit report, income and risk factor that determine your apr.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

That's not entirely true. You may get approved at 2.9%, but if you let the salesmen walk over you, you'll never know you got approved at that rate and take the higher number he came to you with(hey, you got a 7.9!, congrats). That goes right along with the "how much do you want to pay a month" bullshit strategy.

When I bought my Acrua 10 years ago they tried something like that on me. I told them I already had a loan secured, but maybe they can beat it. So she asked me: "what rate are we trying to beat?", I replied with: "well, aren't you offering 1.9% to qualified buyers?", "then you're trying to beat 1.91 of course". She didn't look happy.
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Oh yea, if your bank won't give you a credit card(likely the case), then get what is called a Secured Credit Card, anyone can get one, even Bernie Madoff! These work simply by having a credit limit equal to what you give them as a down payment. Start with $500 but never use more than 30% of it($170). Use it to buy all the little things you would normally use cash for(gas, beer, cigs).

If you suck at remembering things, then put cash in an envelope each time you use the card. That way when the bill comes you already have the money set aside. After 1 year of using this card, you'll get tons of offers.

Make sure to always pay the balance IN FULL, one payment. The part about not using more than 30% of the $500 is because it helps your credit rating increase faster because you don't have a specific % of your available credit being used. Maxing out your cards makes banks worry. Using a small %(approx 1/3rd) makes them think you are savvy.
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Originally Posted by Porsche

My computations suggest that $32-33k is around what the dealer was charging the OP.

That's about right. Even at 0.0% he was being bent over.

[alderaan34]

Originally Posted by fistpoint

That's not entirely true. You may get approved at 2.9%, but if you let the salesmen walk over you, you'll never know you got approved at that rate and take the higher number he came to you with(hey, you got a 7.9!, congrats). That goes right along with the "how much do you want to pay a month" bullshit strategy.

When I bought my Acrua 10 years ago they tried something like that on me. I told them I already had a loan secured, but maybe they can beat it. So she asked me: "what rate are we trying to beat?", I replied with: "well, aren't you offering 1.9% to qualified buyers?", "then you're trying to beat 1.91 of course". She didn't look happy.
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.
.
Oh yea, if your bank won't give you a credit card(likely the case), then get what is called a Secured Credit Card, anyone can get one, even Bernie Madoff! These work simply by having a credit limit equal to what you give them as a down payment. Start with $500 but never use more than 30% of it($170). Use it to buy all the little things you would normally use cash for(gas, beer, cigs).

If you suck at remembering things, then put cash in an envelope each time you use the card. That way when the bill comes you already have the money set aside. After 1 year of using this card, you'll get tons of offers.

Make sure to always pay the balance IN FULL, one payment. The part about not using more than 30% of the $500 is because it helps your credit rating increase faster because you don't have a specific % of your available credit being used. Maxing out your cards makes banks worry. Using a small %(approx 1/3rd) makes them think you are savvy.
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That's about right. Even at 0.0% he was being bent over.

Yeah I guess that's true, I keeping forgetting there's assholes around always trying to take advantage of people. Not to go thread jack but I was looking through craigslist for my area last night and there's people trying to sell their 2013 FR-S' for 26K+ for a bone stock one, and then I saw one with rims at 28K.

[SloS14]

If I were a salesmen and you said consigner, I would want to charge you 30% APR.

[Bonner]

I had a very good experience at this dealer. DCH runs a first class operation and they did not play the typical "game" with me. And, of course, things go very well anyway when you write them a check and drive off...

[retrosmiths]

Off-topic, scammy dealer tactics I experienced:

You tell them which car you're interested in. They ask you if you'll buy the car that day if both parties agree on a price and then they'll make you sign a piece of paper (the 4-square) to make it feel "official", so you are somehow obliged to buy the car (but you are not, because that's not the legal paperwork).

They come up with absurdly high numbers, you feel insulted, they ask the price range you're expecting, and now they have the exact price you're willing to pay (the upper part of your range). Prices keep going back and forth between you and the finance manager, with the dealer acting as the middleman and as "your friend trying to help you".

They keep you waiting for long periods of time to drain you of energy and just make you submit to whatever they're asking for.

Near the end of the negotiation, they'll try a few more scams: they'll tell you they have to bump the APR by a few percent due to unforeseen reasons, or/and they ask you if you can thrown in a few more bucks to the monthly payment (usually $10-20) which they try to convince you "wouldn't hurt" but in long term it will really add up.

My advice? Walk out. Wait for a few days and they'll call you back.

[bestwheelbase]

@Bonner I don't usually prefer red, but that photo looks gorgeous!

[thill]

Originally Posted by retrosmiths

Off-topic, scammy dealer tactics I experienced:

You tell them which car you're interested in. They ask you if you'll buy the car that day if both parties agree on a price and then they'll make you sign a piece of paper (the 4-square) to make it feel "official", so you are somehow obliged to buy the car (but you are not, because that's not the legal paperwork).

They come up with absurdly high numbers, you feel insulted, they ask the price range you're expecting, and now they have the exact price you're willing to pay (the upper part of your range). Prices keep going back and forth between you and the finance manager, with the dealer acting as the middleman and as "your friend trying to help you".

They keep you waiting for long periods of time to drain you of energy and just make you submit to whatever they're asking for.

Near the end of the negotiation, they'll try a few more scams: they'll tell you they have to bump the APR by a few percent due to unforeseen reasons, or/and they ask you if you can thrown in a few more bucks to the monthly payment (usually $10-20) which they try to convince you "wouldn't hurt" but in long term it will really add up.

My advice? Walk out. Wait for a few days and they'll call you back.

My advice. Don't leave your house. Send out email to as many dealers as you can (I usually start with a 50 mile range). Take the top 3 dealers who respond with the lowest price and then pit them against each other. I usually end up calling the final two dealers after I have narrowed it down and confirm everything over the phone. I have done this for my last 8 vehicle purchases and it works quite well with little to no pressure.

The minute you walk into the dealer, you have given them the advantage. They know all the tricks and, if nothing else, will try to keep you there for hours to wear you down.

[MyGT86]

Yeah I would go somewhere else. Just food for thought, when I bought my FRS I had no credit history at all paid cash for everything. They told me cause of that they offered me an APR of 13% and this is with 8K down on a base model M/T FRS. I just kept refusing there offers finally got them down to 9.9 APR signed all the papers. About a 2 week before my 1st payment was due the Toyota finance department sent me a letter re evauating my loan saying there was several errors made that were corrected. My APR was dropped from 9.9 to 2.4 payment 465 to 394 a month on a 60 month term. Maybe I got lucky but I honestly think the sales men and sale managers have no clue about how financing works.
You can always say no ask for everything you want you are doing them a service by buying a car from them. If its shady then find another dealer I went to 4 dealerships before I sat down to talk numbers. Good luck to you. Oh one last thing sometimes its better just to do the loan on your own without a co signer unless they have perfect credit, they have 1st time buyers programs that will work in your favor.

[Bonner]

Originally Posted by bestwheelbase

@Bonner I don't usually prefer red, but that photo looks gorgeous!

After my wife and my new car, my other passion in life is photography! I appreciate that! This was taken in a little seaside town below Santa Barbara called Summerland.

After winning his first election, Bill and Hillary Clinton stayed at a home near this picture with their Hollywood producer friends Linda Bloodworth-Thomason and her husband, Arkansas native, Harry Thomason.

[Braxton...]

Don't do it !!! my dad was a car salesman for a very long time so I know a lot of what they do to screw people over and make more commission. go to a credit union for a loan, they do lower interest rates for auto loans compared to the regular banks. this salesman is trying to take advantage of a 19 year old kid that he assumes knows nothing ! I looked into buying a 2013 wrx a while back and the salesman told me I am going to need a co-signer, before he even knew my credit score, which is 700+ and said its about your credit history, not just the credit score. it sucks I couldn't buy my dream car but I will own one some day I hope you get it figured out man.

[Braxton...]

Originally Posted by MyGT86

Yeah I would go somewhere else. Just food for thought, when I bought my FRS I had no credit history at all paid cash for everything. They told me cause of that they offered me an APR of 13% and this is with 8K down on a base model M/T FRS. I just kept refusing there offers finally got them down to 9.9 APR signed all the papers. About a 2 week before my 1st payment was due the Toyota finance department sent me a letter re evauating my loan saying there was several errors made that were corrected. My APR was dropped from 9.9 to 2.4 payment 465 to 394 a month on a 60 month term. Maybe I got lucky but I honestly think the sales men and sale managers have no clue about how financing works.
You can always say no ask for everything you want you are doing them a service by buying a car from them. If its shady then find another dealer I went to 4 dealerships before I sat down to talk numbers. Good luck to you. Oh one last thing sometimes its better just to do the loan on your own without a co signer unless they have perfect credit, they have 1st time buyers programs that will work in your favor.

Damn you got lucky with that 2.4% ! the down payment has a huge effect on the apr. when I bought my 2013 Ninja 300 from the dealership I only put 500 down on the 5500$ bike and I got a 10%apr and ended up financing 7500, damn dealer "assembly" fees -_-

[redsuns03]

That's so weird. I did a 9k down. MT with TRD exhaust out the door was 29.9k