Mitsurugi: Reforged

[spitsnaugle]

Originally Posted by Ashikabi

Though I suppose if you carefully located it vertically to bisect the vertical travel of actuation rod you would pretty well negate any negative effects

Correct- mine is perpendicular, located inline with the travel of the pushrod. Zero issues there.

I'll probably have a couple of these laying around for a while, so reach out via PM if you ever need. They're $75 each + shipping.

[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by spitsnaugle

Correct- mine is perpendicular, located inline with the travel of the pushrod. Zero issues there.

I'll probably have a couple of these laying around for a while, so reach out via PM if you ever need. They're $75 each + shipping.

Thanks. I'll definitely keep it in mind

[Ashikabi]

Making progress. Added rail mount fuel pressure gauge. Hooked up heater lines. The hump in the back of the manifold had to be ground down and I was forced to use a 120 degree hose end. I still had to bend the Hardline a little. All my coolant lines are now hooked up except the radiator itself. I'll get a couple pictures later of my surge tank, overflow, and hardlines coming out of the water pump. Don't let me forget.

I hooked up and bled the clutch. Once we got clean fluid we pumped it a bunch and got pressure in the pedal. As soon as I cracked the bleeder, the pedal went to the floor. Then you had to pump it to get it to build pressure. Once it has pressure, it feels pretty normal. Is this normal? It seems like the clutch should feel the same whether the bleeder was just cracked or it's been pressed 100 times right? Can you guys with more experience comment?

[Ashikabi]

Not much but here is my Chase Bays overflow tank

[Ashikabi]

Got some special sauce for the race car. $0.25 each at a store closing sale. Almost got a partial pallet of Ultra Zeroes on Friday but the Z didn't have room and they were gone by the time I got back

[Ashikabi]

One step forward 3 steps back. I discovered yesterday that I was a fucking idiot trying to use this Canton oil pan. I never put 2 and 2 together that the oil filter was on the front of the GTO pan. I just saw it was front sump and went looking for a cheaper"better" alternative. The Canton pan looks like a great unit for sure but externally recreating the filter relocation that the GTO pan has is folly. Nearly impossible without welding fittings and even then it's gonna be a bitch. So with that said, I have a stock GTO pan coming with a filter bypass. If I'd realized how the GTO pan was set up right away this build would have been done 8 months ago.

This week I'll be pulling my motor out again to swap the pan. This, the intake, and making a couple hoses for the oil and AC will pretty much compete the build. Before the motor comes out I'll finalize my Accusump mounting and hood trimming(pics when it's done). Once the motor is back in I'll tow it to the exhaust shop. I was going to drive it but my headers don't have O2 bungs.

Pics of oil filter mounting. Remote mount with sandwich plate for oil cooler. I went cheap on this. Also placed it too far back and had to move it. Will replace filter and oil before long. Didn't want to put premium oil/filter in a motor when I was going to replace it in a few hundred miles.

Oil and transmission coolers.

Throttle body... There was a iac valve on top of the throttle body. It was hitting my hood so I milled/die grindered it off. Filled holes with JBWeld and painted with Crinkle black. Made an extended throttle cable bracket too.

[Ashikabi]

Accusump mounting finalized. Had to cut up my hood to make it fit lol. Looks fantastic though. You can see where I cut the hood for the throttle body and intake too

[Axis2011KR]

Originally Posted by Ashikabi

Hopefully all those coolers in front of your radiator aren't going to create heat problems. I don't know what you've done to the front bumper to increase airflow or if stock but I know some other people have had issues after keeping those in front of the radiator even with the bigger aftermarket fans. Some opened up the mustache on the BRZ bumper and others relocated that stuff into fog light areas or similar off to the side to help airflow.

[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by Axis2011KR

Hopefully all those coolers in front of your radiator aren't going to create heat problems. I don't know what you've done to the front bumper to increase airflow or if stock but I know some other people have had issues after keeping those in front of the radiator even with the bigger aftermarket fans. Some opened up the mustache on the BRZ bumper and others relocated that stuff into fog light areas or similar off to the side to help airflow.

I am deleting the grill and went to the drift armor bar instead of the fat stock crash bar. I was also concerned about airflow through the radiator. But I have fog lights so using them for air isn't something I'm happy with. We will see and if I have to change stuff later I will. Probably go to 20an lines and a multiple pass radiator before moving my coolers

[DustinS]

Originally Posted by Ashikabi

Probably go to 20an lines and a multiple pass radiator before moving my coolers

Good to note -20an is smaller than the normal radiator hoses, so if you have cooling issues with normal hoses, the -20 isn't going to help.

I would work on ducting to make all the air pass through the coolers instead of around them. That will help a ton.

[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by DustinS

Good to note -20an is smaller than the normal radiator hoses, so if you have cooling issues with normal hoses, the -20 isn't going to help.



I would work on ducting to make all the air pass through the coolers instead of around them. That will help a ton.

I have 16an hoses now so... 20 would be an upgrade. We will see where these land me. I am planning on fully ducting the front end but I don't have my bumper back from paint yet so I'm kinda stuck for now

[DustinS]

Not sure how I missed the part where you went AN radiator lines haha. I think if you duct it, you shouldn't have much issue.

[Ashikabi]

Alright guys, almost done. Got Accusump mounted. GTO oil pan cut out for subframe Oil lines finished. Used a cheap filter bypass, remote filter mount, and sandwich plate. Teed in Accusump right at the bypass inlet. RacerX dual catch can(V1). Version 3 of the throttle bracket. My extended v2 interfered with the engine covers. If anyone wants it just pay shipping and it's yours. I mounted this v3 bracket similarly to the Lokar bracket. Still had to bend my engine covers out a little too clear the throttle cable. Still looks good though, wouldn't notice without being told to look for it. Last pic is the part number for the oil pan.

I'm working on starting/tuning right now. I had the starter wired wrong, took a long time to track that down. Turns out one of my injectors in wired wrong too. I hooked up the starter but the injector is from the wire harness from Element Tuning. The injector is getting constant 12v so as long as there is fuel in the rail, it's pumping it into the cylinder... Stay tuned

[Ashikabi]

I've got an issue with one of the injectors so I can't really run yet but I did start up on 7 cylinders. I've got oil pressure. Accusump works.

Now a question for you guys... I modified my throttle body to eliminate the MAP sensor. This eliminated the passage that bypassed the throttle plate. When I started the car, the rpm climbed steadily without throttle input. I couldn't see the throttle body from inside the car but it could have gotten sucked open(I suppose.. ?). Now the tuning and whatnot isn't right either but...-here's the question- do I modify/adjust the throttle body further to allow for idle air? It does have a screw on the pulley that I assume is for idle control. I could crank that in and reset the throttle position to zero. This would (presumably) tell the computer that the throttle is at zero but still allow idle air correct?