Honda K24 Swapped 2015 BRZ Ship of Thesus (NASA TT5)

[RedReplicant]

Been a busy few weeks, but here is a jumble of stuff:

Here was the full power map on the NASA classing dyno:


205whp tune


200whp tune


The averages came out at 206whp for the 205whp tune and 205whp for the 205whp tune, higher than I wanted to make. You will notice the savage dip at VTEC changeover, I need to log and email my tuner to have him fix it (or take a stab at it myself), I just haven't gotten around to it. I ended up moving my classing sheet to 2870lb min weight and sticking two 25lb weights on the passenger floor.



Not worth posting about the January NASA AZ AMP events since it poured and I was on these... finished second on Saturday and third on Sunday. (this is a front, I need more camber, maxed plates and upper eccentrics in a slotted strut. rear needs a touch less camber than now, imo)



I canceled my ATI order since it was forever backordered and got a Fluidampr. I broke my K24 pulley trying to get it loose, but whatever. Had to let the radiator float to get the impact and crank pulley socket on, but it wasn't that bad of a deal.




Also cut out a bit of radiator support to give the intake tube a bit more room to flex.



I found that my endlinks were hitting the bottom of the struts in certain situations, so I took a grinder to them to open up some clearance.



Unfortunately, looking at them after the most recent two events I still have some contact so I'll end up ordering SPLs.



I've once again been dealing with oversteer issues on throttle, talked to Shaftworks and he said go down 4 turns in the rear ride height wise and change the front bar to its medium stiffness. If that doesn't work I will end up changing spring rates to something much close in rate.

Bit the bullet and I am going 255/40/17 RC1. Apex EC7R 17x9.5, for fun here is the Stoptech 355mm kit under them. Miles of clearance




This is the Stoptech 345mm rear kit, they fit fine. I also test fit 17x9 +35 TC105N on this kit and they fit too.



Got a set of PP front brakes here and they're larger than I expected



Rear brakes will be here tomorrow, I ordered reman'd 2017 STI rear calipers as I am pretty certain that they're the same as a PP caliper but we will see after I measure them.

Pads are a near new set of CSG C2 that I picked up cheap.



After hunting around a bit I found that the ASM GLTC K24 S2000s do not run oil coolers so I intend on dropping mine for the next event. Lose weight, less complexity, and fewer failure points but we will see what the oil temp logs say.

Anyway, I will post an update after I measure the rear calipers tomorrow. Off to Chuckwalla for NASA SoCal on 2/18 - 2/19.

[RedReplicant]

I also sold my hyperblue to a local and she had it on track a week after buying it, so that is nice to see. Such a good car.



Here is a shot of mine at the same event on 18s for hopefully the last time.

[Kelse92]

Which part number did you end up canceling with ATI?
I have one in my cart from Summit that is in stock, but maybe I have the incorrect part number.

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by Kelse92

Which part number did you end up canceling with ATI?
I have one in my cart from Summit that is in stock, but maybe I have the incorrect part number.

It was an ATI 918477 I tried to order through Turn14 for like $308. I just checked again and Turn14 is still out of stock on them but maybe they're just having issues for whatever reason

[RedReplicant]

Curious to see if the tire changes shape after a session and it might get interesting close to the cords.

255/40/17 Maxxis RC1 on a 17x9.5 Apex EC7R

Template fits when centered



Template pushed all the way left



Fingers crossed it doesn't change its mind and blow the 257mm template.

edit:

If a worn tire on the vehicle is found to be out of compliance in impound, the competitor has the
option to bring a new tire, on the same wheel type/size, and at the same tire pressure, to retest for
compliance

Lmao, so basically keep a new tire as a spare just in case.

PP Brembos on up front



STI Brembo in the rear, it is identical to the PP rear Brembo with the exception of color.



The PP Brembo setup is roughly 18lb heavier than the 355 / 345mm Stoptech kit.

[RedReplicant]

Car is back together and ready for Chuckwalla next weekend, but I had something really weird happen.

Went to double check my brake bleed, ABS seemed like it was acting a bit weird but there were no lights on - it was probably just cold AR1s with a bunch of rubber balls on them locking up with the slightest touch. Parked the car for like five mins, started it back up and left into an empty industrial complex, got into water and spun through all of first, second, and part of third (0 traction, not that fast speed wise), got on the brakes hard and ABS wasn't working. Tested a few more times and the ABS / square TC light came on. Tried restarting the car a few times and the lights wouldn't go away / ABS wouldn't work.

Haltech was reporting the rear wheel speeds as



Tried unplugging the rear ABS sensors with no change, unplugged the ABS unit and got no wheel speeds, plugged it back in and the rear wheel speeds were still as the above.

Set up Techstream, scanned the ABS unit and got


Cleared the ABS unit codes, calibrated the ABS unit, started the car up on jackstands, read out the live ABS data and the wheel speeds were right. Plugged in the Haltech and wheel speeds were also now properly reporting.

Drove the car around / beat on it a bit and it is fine? wtf?

Is it possible to put the ABS into a fault mode that it won't exit without a dealer tool code clear?

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

Been a busy few weeks, but here is a jumble of stuff:

Here was the full power map on the NASA classing dyno:


205whp tune


200whp tune


The averages came out at 206whp for the 205whp tune and 205whp for the 205whp tune, higher than I wanted to make. You will notice the savage dip at VTEC changeover, I need to log and email my tuner to have him fix it (or take a stab at it myself), I just haven't gotten around to it. I ended up moving my classing sheet to 2870lb min weight and sticking two 25lb weights on the passenger floor.



Not worth posting about the January NASA AZ AMP events since it poured and I was on these... finished second on Saturday and third on Sunday. (this is a front, I need more camber, maxed plates and upper eccentrics in a slotted strut. rear needs a touch less camber than now, imo)



I canceled my ATI order since it was forever backordered and got a Fluidampr. I broke my K24 pulley trying to get it loose, but whatever. Had to let the radiator float to get the impact and crank pulley socket on, but it wasn't that bad of a deal.




Also cut out a bit of radiator support to give the intake tube a bit more room to flex.



I found that my endlinks were hitting the bottom of the struts in certain situations, so I took a grinder to them to open up some clearance.



Unfortunately, looking at them after the most recent two events I still have some contact so I'll end up ordering SPLs.



I've once again been dealing with oversteer issues on throttle, talked to Shaftworks and he said go down 4 turns in the rear ride height wise and change the front bar to its medium stiffness. If that doesn't work I will end up changing spring rates to something much close in rate.

Bit the bullet and I am going 255/40/17 RC1. Apex EC7R 17x9.5, for fun here is the Stoptech 355mm kit under them. Miles of clearance




This is the Stoptech 345mm rear kit, they fit fine. I also test fit 17x9 +35 TC105N on this kit and they fit too.



Got a set of PP front brakes here and they're larger than I expected



Rear brakes will be here tomorrow, I ordered reman'd 2017 STI rear calipers as I am pretty certain that they're the same as a PP caliper but we will see after I measure them.

Pads are a near new set of CSG C2 that I picked up cheap.



After hunting around a bit I found that the ASM GLTC K24 S2000s do not run oil coolers so I intend on dropping mine for the next event. Lose weight, less complexity, and fewer failure points but we will see what the oil temp logs say.

Anyway, I will post an update after I measure the rear calipers tomorrow. Off to Chuckwalla for NASA SoCal on 2/18 - 2/19.

So you are hording all the Nankangs

[Kelse92]

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

So you are hording all the Nankangs

I think Nankang is putting out something new soon, I'm seeing a lot of stores doing close-outs on the AR1's.

[RedReplicant]

Funny part is I am trying to sell them, no bites at $800 for the set over the past two weeks lol

Quick picture after first mount. Tire changed shape with weight on them, I think it'll be fine in the template even on the cords.

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

Funny part is I am trying to sell them, no bites at $800 for the set over the past two weeks lol

Quick picture after first mount. Tire changed shape with weight on them, I think it'll be fine in the template even on the cords.

what size?

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

what size?

255/35/18 is what I am selling

Offloading my 355/345mm Stoptech kits, 18x9.5 Titan7s, and the new set of Nankangs.

Going to order Xidas after I clean my garage out, I hope it doesn't take too long for someone to make offers on this stuff

Forecast says rain at Chuckwalla this weekend, I hope we get lucky instead.

[villainous_frx]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

Going to order Xidas

I told you so

[RedReplicant]

Chuckwalla went as well as I could have hoped, first of five both days and took the NASA AZ and NASA SoCal CW TT5 track records. Should have won four new RC1s through contingency, but I screwed up and forgot to take the required pictures on Sunday so hopefully Maxxis accepts me submitting both days with the same pictures.

The Maxxis stickers fortunately don't look too weird on the car.



I dropped two wheels pushing too hard on Saturday morning and visibly flatspotted one of the new wheels, so that is cool. I ended up ordering the last two remaining 17x9.5 Anthracite EC7R last night and dropped off the two wheels that went off to be straightened / checked.



Front camber is maxed out with plates / eccentrics but the tire still wants more, same goes for the rear with all stock arms.



Saturday I only won by about 9 hundreths of a second so I knew I needed to make it happen during the first session of the day on Sunday, but unfortunately we got screwed by someone hopping into the wrong group and gridding first row in a SuperSpec Cup Miata.

That killed the first flying lap and bunched up like six of us who were within half a second for a couple of laps so I let everyone by and built a big gap so I could get a clean lap. What I managed was enough for first at that point, but I figured it wouldn't hold up for the win, and when I scaled I made weight by one pound. (2872lb vs 2871lb claimed)

I had to leave after the second session of the day, so I knew going into it I pretty much had one lap to make it all work. Car popped a CEL as I was rolling onto track from the grid so I kinda started freaking out a bit since it only really does that when there is actually a problem. Ran the corner before the main straight wide to build a bit of extra speed and dipped into the 58s with a 1:58:709, which was good enough for the win by about 2 tenths and the record. My initial target for the weekend was the 1:58:587 that Sonny did in Blub, so close, yet so far.

Not a very good lap, I just really get sucked into the TT pressure in my head. Can't really try new things or push TOO hard because a 4 off is a DQ, there is someone a second or two behind you that you don't want to screw up, and you need to put down a lap so once I hit my 'target' time I tend to dive into the pits before I do something stupid and throw it away. The extent of the second session was the out lap, this lap, and a cooldown right into the pits.

Track map:



What I'd like to do:
* Get off the brakes earlier at 1 and carry more speed through 2
* Figure out where I'm supposed to turn in at 4, I think I am too early
* Not lift as early at 6
* Figure out what is going on at 7
* Not brake at 8 and instead carry the speed in and brake up the hill to 9
* 10 is important, probably run it out wider to be on throttle longer
* Carry more speed into 11
* Probably enter the bowl up higher since the car pushes terribly mid corner / steering is bound up and I am getting on and off the throttle to try and get the back end moving a bit
* Off the brakes earlier at 14 and just lift for 15 like I could in my S2000

As far as the CEL, my friends the P2135 / P2165 came back for the DBW plug, I'm really glad the car didn't fault DBW and cut throttle off since I'd have lost with just my session 1 time on Sunday.




Pin 6 is VTA1, which lines up with the codes. I'm going to run a new wire for it and get a new plug housing to fix this thing.

[Pat]

Yeah, TT is certainly a different game than HPDE or open lapping. Congrats on getting out there and showing people what these things can do. That's aweseome.
I'm hoping to compete with Abe this year after my new BRZ shows up. He said those cars are faster than you on straights. Well, Abe's car will certainly be faster than mine in the corners, so it'll be an interesting year.
Bummer to hear about the bent wheels. I bent an EC-7R going off at Buttonwillow. It got replaced, fortunately, but after that wheel orders were for models that were not going to be discontinued.
And it sucks to hear about people not gridding properly. That happened all the time here for a couple years. Fortunately we got a new TT director a year ago and things seem to be getting cleaned up. I'm really hoping that's not a problem here this year. It's such a simple thing to get right, yet so many people get it wrong.