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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous


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Old 12-16-2016, 03:23 PM   #2577
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Bov goes right to to intake barb, its the barb your given when you cut you brake booster line.

You might want to run to the auto parts store and pick up more 6mm vacuum line. Its cheap so grab alot.

Ill upload the pictures now and draw lines on it to show where it all goes correctly. Well as soon as photobucket stops flipping out when i try to upload.
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Old 12-16-2016, 04:21 PM   #2578
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Here you go bud, I don't know if I can make this any easier. I made the pictures huge so you can save them and see with better detail. I would personally like to relocate my one PCV hose but the damn water lines going to the turbo is eating up all the room under my TB. That's a project for another day.

Let me know if I can help.

You can see my catch can with a hose on the top. I ran a hose under my car and mounted the other end next to the transmission. I hated the way my AC smelled like gas. That fixed it real quick. I also removed the PCV check valved to completely fix the crank case from building pressure and causing my oil leaks from the turbo oil return hose. That wasn't the kits fault but the oil leak drove me nutz! The other barb on the backside of the plenum has a cap. Both crack case barbs now go to my catch can.



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Old 01-01-2017, 12:30 PM   #2579
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I am trying to id some fuel injectors that are supposedly 550cc that FBM provides with their BRZ/FRS stage 1 kit. Does anybody have any pics of model numbers on them? Thanks.
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Old 01-26-2017, 09:55 PM   #2580
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How well are the quick tap nipples holding up just past the turbo? The ones installed on the elbow coupler. Has anyone experienced any sort of issues from it opposed to having a bung welded to one of the charge pipes? I don't have access to a welder and out of convenience I'd rather use the ATP fitting. But don't want to wait on a new coupler from FBM if it can potentially be an issue down the road. Thanks in advance.

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Old 01-26-2017, 10:35 PM   #2581
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@GsxrMe with the grimmspeed electronic boost controller. Is that plug and play replacing the valve under the intake manifold? Or does that have to be soldered/hardwired like the FBM one I have here? I have a soldering iron but there are no instructions to which port is which and FBM doesn't remember which port goes to what....... So I'd rather just buy the grimmspeed one and follow your diagrams. Granted there are no issues with your setup.
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Old 01-27-2017, 07:28 AM   #2582
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@FR-S Todd 86 Mafia

The 15-17 wrx non sti controller has the correct fittings and barbs but the 08-17 Sti has the correct connector. Kinda of a mess to make it look good. Spoke to Art from grimmspeed and told him theres a market for us and to move on it.

Its really not money wasted. I have plans to purchase a 2018 WRX "non STI" and having a flex fuel tune completed for my daily driver as I pull thr BRZ engine for work.

As far as thr 2 wires for your current controller there no wrong way to wire it but you do want to make sure you run the vacuum lines exactly the same way. The Boost controller will plug into the EVAP like everyone else, and no you cant find that damn connector without ordering 200 of them at once. So cut your evaps off

If you have the right barbs and bracket already but dont want to cut like me you can purchase the 08-17 Sti from grimmspeed and itll drop in after you move some parts.

The quick taps work just fine, just make sure its tight enough.
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Old 03-30-2017, 11:35 PM   #2583
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[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rnfITOnrV48&spfreload=10"]Subaru brz turbo 3rd to 4th gear pull. - YouTube[/ame]
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Old 04-02-2017, 01:41 PM   #2584
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I've almost wrapped up the install on my new kit. I have a couple questions that I was hoping you guys could help me out with though.

1. I'll be getting a catch can in the near future, but I don't have one right now. In the meantime, what should I do with the valve breather hose? I saw another member on here mentioning that the FBM instructions say to vent it to atmosphere, but I don't see anything about it in the instructions that FBM sent me.

2. Has anyone else noticed that the wire leading to the MAF sensor routes very close to a belt? I'm using zip ties for clearance right now, but that's kid of ugly.
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Old 04-02-2017, 02:06 PM   #2585
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1) dump to atmosphere for now.
2) I'm also using zip ties
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Old 04-03-2017, 02:07 PM   #2586
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I'm essentially done with the install, but there are just a couple more fitment issues I'm running into. The one I'm most concerned about is that the downpipe routes really close to a sensor. I'm not sure which one it is, but it's mounted low on the engine. The pipe is heat wrapped, but I'm concerned since it's almost flush against the sensor. I'll post some pics if I'm able. Has anyone else run into this?

My intercooler also sits frustratingly low. I drilled the holes in the crash bar to the specs in the instructions, but it doesn't seem to have been enough. The plastic piece is jutting slightly downward, which I think is causing bumper fitment issues.
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Old 04-03-2017, 11:12 PM   #2587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ph4zon View Post
I'm essentially done with the install, but there are just a couple more fitment issues I'm running into. The one I'm most concerned about is that the downpipe routes really close to a sensor. I'm not sure which one it is, but it's mounted low on the engine. The pipe is heat wrapped, but I'm concerned since it's almost flush against the sensor. I'll post some pics if I'm able. Has anyone else run into this?

My intercooler also sits frustratingly low. I drilled the holes in the crash bar to the specs in the instructions, but it doesn't seem to have been enough. The plastic piece is jutting slightly downward, which I think is causing bumper fitment issues.
-If you have a v-band, loosen the v-band and re-clock/rotate the down pipe, it shouldn't be anywhere close to the block. Mine is 1-2" away from the cam sensors.
-Take the crash beam off and them ream the holes the bolts go through. This will give you the extra 1/4" clearance so the lower valence won't hinder bumper fitment.
-Vent it to atmosphere, just know a tiny, tiny amount of oil will splatter out of it over time. When you get a catch can that will be one of the hoses you will tap into.
-I used a zip tie to hold the excess maf wire over to the hole on the a/c compressor pulley cover (there is a hole in the plastic where a clip went.) I also re-loomed the wire and used the braided-mesh style to also ensure the zip-tie didn't cause damage to the insulation.
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Old 04-03-2017, 11:50 PM   #2588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ph4zon View Post
I'm essentially done with the install, but there are just a couple more fitment issues I'm running into. The one I'm most concerned about is that the downpipe routes really close to a sensor. I'm not sure which one it is, but it's mounted low on the engine. The pipe is heat wrapped, but I'm concerned since it's almost flush against the sensor. I'll post some pics if I'm able. Has anyone else run into this?

My intercooler also sits frustratingly low. I drilled the holes in the crash bar to the specs in the instructions, but it doesn't seem to have been enough. The plastic piece is jutting slightly downward, which I think is causing bumper fitment issues.
Ya, intercooler issue. And cold air pipe to intake, i had to shave my headlight and notch a gulfball hole into it and reseal it. The plaatic under thr intercooler also had to be shaved or it was tugging my bumper off
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Old 04-04-2017, 01:05 PM   #2589
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All of this has been super helpful. Thank you guys.

Test starts were no go, unfortunately. I loaded the basemap no problem. Unfortunately when I try to start the car, it won't start at all with the FBM 4 Bar MAP sensor. With the stock MAP sensor, it seems to be running rich and stalls immediately. From what I've read, I may need to scale the FBM 4 Bar MAP sensor. Does this seem correct, or is it something else entirely?

I know my tuner wants to use a 3 Bar MAP sensor, so essentially I'm just trying to get the car running on the basemap to do a few test drives and get the car to him.

Unfortunately I have flanges, not V-Bands, so clocking the downpipe isn't an option. The culprit may be the Ultimate Racing overpipe and front pipe that I'm using.


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Old 04-04-2017, 04:50 PM   #2590
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What i did was for the downpipe to make it fit perfectly was to do that first and tightened it up. Then i fit the rest of the exhaust and left all the screws loose. Some spinning and shaking will be required but things should start to line up.

I have the complete fullblown exhaust with 3" overpipe and its a joy to fit, even with there turbo kit. Just relax and take your time.
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