WHAT DID YOU DO TO YOUR FRS TODAY?

[mazeroni]

Originally Posted by Ashikabi

Why does the flywheel need resurfaced? I don't feel like a throw out bearing replacement is a 1200$job. You just pull the transmission off. It's not THAT big of a job

Some people on these forums say they have paid $1600 at the dealership or down to $900 at a local shop for everything. I got right in the middle with the first place I called. The clutch assembly is about $230 vs $70 for just the TO bearing. Hearing from others, it doesn't sound like the cost of labor is much different. Pulling the transmission is the bulk of the work.

As for the flywheel, not resurfacing it will excessively wear the new clutch because the surface of the flywheel will be "rough" against the smooth surface of the clutch. You basically want them to wear evenly. I think it is less than a $100 for that work.

Still doing research. If I hadn't paid $1200 for a power steering ECU in May, I would be all over it. Since it is so high mileage, I'd rather not replace anything if I get rid of the car in 10K miles and the bearing will hold up.

[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by mazeroni

Some people on these forums say they have paid $1600 at the dealership or down to $900 at a local shop for everything. I got right in the middle with the first place I called. The clutch assembly is about $230 vs $70 for just the TO bearing. Hearing from others, it doesn't sound like the cost of labor is much different. Pulling the transmission is the bulk of the work.

As for the flywheel, not resurfacing it will excessively wear the new clutch because the surface of the flywheel will be "rough" against the smooth surface of the clutch. You basically want them to wear evenly. I think it is less than a $100 for that work.

Still doing research. If I hadn't paid $1200 for a power steering ECU in May, I would be all over it. Since it is so high mileage, I'd rather not replace anything if I get rid of the car in 10K miles and the bearing will hold up.

I didn't realize you were replacing the clutch too. Definitely don't have a dealership do it though

[ActionMaxon]

Originally Posted by mazeroni

Some people on these forums say they have paid $1600 at the dealership or down to $900 at a local shop for everything. I got right in the middle with the first place I called. The clutch assembly is about $230 vs $70 for just the TO bearing. Hearing from others, it doesn't sound like the cost of labor is much different. Pulling the transmission is the bulk of the work.

As for the flywheel, not resurfacing it will excessively wear the new clutch because the surface of the flywheel will be "rough" against the smooth surface of the clutch. You basically want them to wear evenly. I think it is less than a $100 for that work.

Still doing research. If I hadn't paid $1200 for a power steering ECU in May, I would be all over it. Since it is so high mileage, I'd rather not replace anything if I get rid of the car in 10K miles and the bearing will hold up.

When removing a clutch/pressure plate assembly, the flywheel will be smooth where the clutch rides, not rough. Similar to a brake rotor. A resurfaced flywheel will be rougher. It will have crosshatching like a new brake rotor.

The risk with not resurfacing is that if the flywheel is not perfectly flat, you will not get even contact on the clutch disk. This could result in unusual wear and operation.

Additionally, if you have a new pressure plate(which would come in the clutch kit), and don't replace or resurface the flywheel they will "grab" at different rates which could cause issues.

Generally, if you don't replace or resurface the flywheel you at least want to roughen the surface to "break the glaze", to ensure everything seats correctly. A 2" 3M sanding disk on an angled die grinder would be my recommendation.

[kyle116]

Originally Posted by Busybee

Finally got them. Do not know why I did wait so long!

If you have the driver side mat as well, the mat ends up scratching up the dead pedal and vice versa. The back of the mat will turn silver and the pedal will have black scuffs. In case you care. At least thats what happened to mine

[Busybee]

Originally Posted by kyle116

If you have the driver side mat as well, the mat ends up scratching up the dead pedal and vice versa. The back of the mat will turn silver and the pedal will have black scuffs. In case you care. At least thats what happened to mine

Good to know to tane precautions!


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[mrg666]

Stock valve springs failed outside recall and I got GSC 5756 valve springs installed with a fresh set of spark plugs this week. It was expensive since my warranty was void. But I had the option of upgrading the springs since I was paying for the service. It drives okay so far.

[RToyo86]

Snuck in a rinseless wash using my tiny ass garage. I had to open the door and reposition the car to do the other side 😆 .
Topped it with a Sio2 Sealant for my coating.

It was only clean for 2 minutes, but worth it.

[RickyBobby]

Originally Posted by mrg666

Stock valve springs failed outside recall and I got GSC 5756 valve springs installed with a fresh set of spark plugs this week. It was expensive since my warranty was void. But I had the option of upgrading the springs since I was paying for the service. It drives okay so far.

Your 2014 is not on the valve spring recall list. It has/had the improved valve springs.
Just curious why you went with the GSC 5756 valve springs and not OEM. Are they better than OEM?
Did a dealer do the install or someone else?

[Renault Discordia]

Took the girl mudding this weekend for the first time, trip up to Western PA. I swear, I'm learning more and more things about this car as time goes on. Still hella responsive in mud, I think the VikingContacts are doing what I wanted them to do. Definitely needs a bath before I throw my OLM VLs on her, though. lol

[Pbrown]

Originally Posted by mazeroni

I continue to ponder my throwout bearing. On cold mornings it squeals until I touch the clutch, then the sound goes away. The colder it is, the more pumps of the clutch it takes it make it shut up. I'm told it may be a lubrication issue, and as the bearing warms up it properly lubricates and that is why I only hear it during the winter. I may have had the issue last winter, but it was never this loud.

Based on other opinions it sounds like a somewhat common and not entirely dire situation. Some people say it could go in 100 miles, while others suggest that it will last forever so long as you are okay with noisy startups. As far as I can tell the clutch is in overall great shape.

I called a local shop and they said around $1200 for parts, labor, and resurfacing the flywheel.

I'm down to driving around 4K miles a year with very little clutch usage, so I'm wondering if I can keep it alive until Gen 2 hits the market.

Oh, also the Firestone Firehawk 500 tires are really, really good. I think better than the MPSS at about half the cost, especially in the cold. A little soft on initial turn-in, but still great. Got them about a month ago. No regrets.

Had the same issue. Thought I too could make it to the next gen but alas it really got bad and ended replacing the entire clutch. Soooo much better now.

[mazeroni]

Originally Posted by Pbrown

Had the same issue. Thought I too could make it to the next gen but alas it really got bad and ended replacing the entire clutch. Soooo much better now.

Yea, I'm scheduled to go in next Monday to get the entire clutch assembly replaced. After reading up on it more, while I'm certain I could probably go another 6-12 months without issues, it wouldn't be worth sacrificing my flywheel and transmission if the bearing decides to grenade.

I'm still working out OEM vs generic Exedy parts with the shop. The supplier isn't getting back to them. With the generic parts, it should be about $1050 total for parts and labor and resurfacing the flywheel. Right now they are saying $1250.

Not as bad as I expected. Some people were saying $1600-2000.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by mazeroni

Yea, I'm scheduled to go in next Monday to get the entire clutch assembly replaced. After reading up on it more, while I'm certain I could probably go another 6-12 months without issues, it wouldn't be worth sacrificing my flywheel and transmission if the bearing decides to grenade.

I'm still working out OEM vs generic Exedy parts with the shop. The supplier isn't getting back to them. With the generic parts, it should be about $1050 total for parts and labor and resurfacing the flywheel. Right now they are saying $1250.

Not as bad as I expected. Some people were saying $1600-2000.

Maybe they have lower overhead in Tennessee -




humfrz

[mazeroni]

Originally Posted by humfrz

Maybe they have lower overhead in Tennessee -




humfrz

That's really, really creative. No lift. No problem.

[mrg666]

Originally Posted by RickyBobby

Your 2014 is not on the valve spring recall list. It has/had the improved valve springs.
Just curious why you went with the GSC 5756 valve springs and not OEM. Are they better than OEM?
Did a dealer do the install or someone else?

Yes, my car wasn't in the recall but the springs failed anyway. I am not sure if it was related to FI or just a defective part. Dealer did the work and asked if I wanted to go with an aftermarket spring set with better specs since I am paying for it anyway. Since my engine is boosted, I went with GSC 5756.