01-02-2014, 10:21 AM | #323 | |
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2) generally 225/40/17, but this depends on the specific track. A really tight track with little or no straights will benefit from a larger tire that can carry more speed in turns. The smaller tire is to preserve what little acceleration we have 3) absolutely, even if you never see speeds over 80 at the track. Just as with the car itself, suspension, and tires, make sure you balance out the aero, or you'll end up with an ill-handling car. |
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01-05-2014, 06:30 PM | #324 |
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Cool, got one of my questions answered above so now my question is simply regarding a specific tire. I am looking at doing my first track day or two this year and DD my car. I drive a lot and need a very comprimising tire in regards to longevity. I plan on getting the Firehawk Indy Wide Ovals which are a high performance summer tire and have a tread rating of 320. Do I run any risk a tire like this not holdibg up well to track use (ie chunking or somethung that would make them unusable besides just tread wear)?
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01-05-2014, 06:53 PM | #325 | |
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I have no idea what tires those are, but chunking is a result of bad alignment and badly overheating 1 section of the tire. |
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01-05-2014, 07:00 PM | #326 |
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Track related mods currently installed
Apr splitter Driveway labs diffusor Mishimoto oil cooler. Currently having tons of fun at HPDE but I will be looking into track rims/tires and the ap BBK upfront you referred me to. The stock wheel gap is bothering me though and I have a new in the box set of eibach sport lines. Are there any shocks ud recommend pairing with them to keep me aggressive on the track? I've herd mixed reviews on lowering springs with stock struts. Also what form of camber adj do u recommend? Whiteline camber bolts front/rear?
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01-05-2014, 07:55 PM | #327 |
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Stock tires are below the wear bars and getting replaced some time this week, which is why I am looking at new tires. i had just remebered something about heat and chunking and didnt know if it was related to an individual tire, but an alignment is definitely going to happen first for sure.
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01-05-2014, 08:04 PM | #328 |
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Brand new FRS/BRZ out of the dealership, you only have $1000 to spend for the first season, what are you mods for the track and autocross?
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01-06-2014, 01:12 AM | #329 | |
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If it's $1000 for mods... Camber bolts, race pads (2 sets front, 1 set rear, cuz fronts go faster), brake fluid. I need you to be more specific with your question, as I'm not exactly sure what you're asking and what I'm allowed to spend it on. If consumables and entry fees are not counted, then: Camber Bolts, set of RPF1. |
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01-06-2014, 01:14 AM | #330 | |
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01-06-2014, 01:16 AM | #331 | |
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Sell the diffuser (it's probably non-functional, except in the looks dept), and get some quality coilovers. |
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01-06-2014, 02:21 AM | #332 |
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So you would recommend just getting another set of primacy hps?
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01-06-2014, 02:33 AM | #333 |
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I know many of you take the driving element very seriously, but this car is the first one I think that'll actually allow me to really experience what a sports car is all about. That being said, I'm probably not going to set any lap records (unless it's for slowest) - but I want to ask if it was wise to:
* upgrade to 18" wheels (say, Enkei RPF1's in 8" width) * Find a tire that I can take to the track maybe once a month or even less |
01-06-2014, 02:42 AM | #334 | |
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Honestly wont be a huge disadvantage but it won't help either. Enkies 17x8s would be better. Stock tires are better then you would think/people give th credit for. If u want a dedicated rim/tire set up, you have plenty of options. Hoosiers would be gluing ur car to the road.
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01-06-2014, 04:30 AM | #335 | |
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I don't want to change the dynamics of the car too much by pushing the wheels out though, any advice? |
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01-06-2014, 06:28 AM | #336 |
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