Throw out bearing comparison old vs new

[Tcoat]

Hmmmm mine was a totally different shape.

[churchx]

That's because it was without white dot! Now paint it on yourself and put back

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by churchx

That's because it was without white dot! Now paint it on yourself and put back

Maybe that is what they did! Look at the bottle just to the left in the pictures. Seems to have worked.

[ZDan]

What, approximately, is the failure rate of the old part?
When (like, what VINs) did the new throwout bearing start being used in FT86s?

I watched a fellow 2017 PP get flat-bedded out of Thompson Speedway a couple of weeks ago, apparently the clutch pedal went to floor and didn't return. Would like to figure out if I need to replace mine with new design as preventive measure...

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by ZDan

What, approximately, is the failure rate of the old part?
When (like, what VINs) did the new throwout bearing start being used in FT86s?

I watched a fellow 2017 PP get flat-bedded out of Thompson Speedway a couple of weeks ago, apparently the clutch pedal went to floor and didn't return. Would like to figure out if I need to replace mine with new design as preventive measure...

It can affect any car up to the early 17s (built in 16)
There are two separate TSBs one that lists all cars up to 16 and a separate one that includes the early 17s.
Here is the first one. I will have to search out the later one since it is not in the TSB sub yet.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117440

[reeves]

Originally Posted by Spec C Wannabe

How many miles were you on the original TOB before you swapped with the new one?

I had 79K on mines before swapping... it started squealing around 78K.

[ermax]

I have a 2013, build date of 11/2012. I replaced mine at 87k. As soon as it started screeching I replaced it. I don't recall it looking any different then the new one though. I still have it around here somewhere. I will look at it again compared to the photos in this thread.

[VerusEric]

I spent about an hour disassembling (2) TOBs today; one 2013-2016 and one 2017+. Below are some pictures along the way with what I found; along with some research I did regarding the PNs and bearing manufacturer.


Externally they look identical besides the white dot signifying 2017+.


Above is a photo of the non-sealed side of the bearing exposed. The PNs are identical between the two TOBs.


Here is a photo of the sealed side of the bearing once fully removed from the TOB. The PNs are identical once again (I will explain this below in further detail).


I then cut the two units apart to expose the inside of the bearing. Above is a photo I felt showed the difference in greases used.


The white grease (2017+) felt very slimey and silky almost; while the 2013-2016 felt a bit like petroleum jelly. I realize one is used and one is new though, but the difference is quite large.

Before looking at the final picture, I figure it best to describe a bit of what I found out through various PDFs published by the bearing manufacturer. It appears the bearing manufacturer only lists the physical properties of the bearing on the bearing itself; but has a vast, and much longer PN that they keep internally (or possibly supply to their customers) which describe other traits of the bearing, like tolerances, grease used, etc. The two PNs found on the bearing signify a physical size of the bearing, and then the seal used on each side. The bearing manufacturer lists 11 different "common grease codes" used in their bearings; which vary widely in makeup and operating temperature range.


As a final "test" (read, not super scientific but it's something I could do); I took a heat gun to the two greases still in the cover. The 2013-2016 grease began to boil significantly, about 1/3 of the circumference was boiling in the picture above. The white grease did not seem to be as affected by the heat. When I turned the heat gun off, the 2013-2016 grease smoked while the 2017+ grease did not.

I believe Toyobaru honestly found the issue to be caused by grease degradation at this point. They issued a TSB for it, they updated the bearing for all 2017+ units, and the greases physically look and act differently.

Thanks,
Eric

[Ultramaroon]

Big ups for taking the time to do this, Eric. Thanks.

[ZDan]

Maybe there was a change in grease as well as a separate physical change in the part implemented at a different time?
Both of the ones you show look like p/n 30502AA150, neither looks like p/n 30502AA051.

Originally Posted by VerusEric

Externally they look identical besides the white dot signifying 2017+.

[VerusEric]

Originally Posted by ZDan

Maybe there was a change in grease as well as a separate physical change in the part implemented at a different time?
Both of the ones you show look like p/n 30502AA150, neither looks like p/n 30502AA051.

I have never seen a TOB, from any FRS/BRZ, to date, look like the one on the left. Every unit I have seen looks like the units I took photos of, regardless of year.

Eric

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by VerusEric

I have never seen a TOB, from any FRS/BRZ, to date, look like the one on the left. Every unit I have seen looks like the units I took photos of, regardless of year.

Eric

Mine (2014 FRS) looked like the one on the left. You can see the notched tabs on what was left of it in my pictures above.

[ZDan]

Ah, quick search suggests that xxx051 might have been for previous Subaru models? First post in this thread doesn't give context so I assumed it was for pre'17 models. Subaru parts online shows it as nla, replaced by xxx150.

edit: Ah, looks like Tcoat had the xxx051 part in his '14...

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by ZDan

Ah, quick search suggests that xxx051 might have been for previous Subaru models? First post in this thread doesn't give context so I assumed it was for pre'17 models. Subaru parts online shows it as nla, replaced by xxx150.

edit: Ah, looks like Tcoat had the xxx051 part in his '14...

It begs the question of if the bracket change is also part of the upgrade. Perhaps the old one with the notched brackets (like mine) allowed the bearing to angle to one side. The damage to mine very clearly shows it was twisted in there and I just attributed it to the overheat but looking at the much more robust brackets makes me wonder if more was st work in the failure. If only the lube was at fault why such a big change to the brackets?