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Old 10-23-2013, 05:06 PM   #2367
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You need the system to be on for the drag reduction when not on full power.
Understandable, but that's not what I was getting at. What I meant was that I think the On/Off switch is a bit pointless, considering you have to go WOT to engage the ESC anyway. The system should be constantly 'On' while the car is running. The only point I can see to the On/Off switch is if someone wants to go WOT without the ESC kicking in... but the only situation I can think of where I'd ever want to do that would be during an extended track session, after the batteries on the ESC are drained, and only until they are charged back up enough to get back on the ESC. The again... that in and of itself does seem to make the On/Off switch have some value, so I take back my previous statements. Please disregard my complaint(s) and carry on.
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Old 10-23-2013, 05:10 PM   #2368
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Originally Posted by BlueDubbinTDI View Post
It was just an example but yeah I agree. I also see where full throttle clearly must be used to make a serious pass or merge. However, my foot is planted on the floor maybe just a few times a month. If I was going to throw down $1600, ide really like to experience it before purchase somehow, or hopefully have some other form of use other than just WOT.
Just my #1 concern atm and lookin for some knowledge
Sounds to me like you need to mash down on the pedal more often :P

If you daily drive the car in a way that you rarely go full throttle and don't exceed the speed limit, why would you be worried about having more power? This car has more than an adequate amount of power in stock form for daily driving. The people who complain about being unable to pass minivans while merging onto the highway are either ignorant and/or do not know how to drive the car, or are exaggerating for the sake of complaining.
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Old 10-23-2013, 05:11 PM   #2369
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Oh, and also.

VTEC just kicked in yo
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Old 10-23-2013, 05:26 PM   #2370
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Hey beta testers,

I got an interesting thing for you. For the last 24 hrs I haven't gotten a single engine code, and I can tell you sometimes I haven't followed the 3500 rpm recommended activation. I'm wondering if the reason this is occurring is because of the snorkel. (I removed mine) Am I just getting lucky here, or is it helping?


By the way I'm still not running the tune.
I popped a code almost immediately before i was tuned.

Which snorkel did you remove? The directions called for the removal of the sound tube and air resonator attached to the side of the airbox. I'm having trouble visualizing a snorkel.
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Old 10-23-2013, 05:27 PM   #2371
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You need the system to be on for the drag reduction. This helps supply power when not on full throttle.
Drag Reduction doesn't add power at partial throttle, it keeps the compressor wheel from being a restriction. When DR is running properly, you don't know it's there (unless you notice the flicker of the volt meter).
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Old 10-23-2013, 05:30 PM   #2372
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I think he should add blowing the tube before install as a step.
All I can think of right now is a cartoon from the days when Air Jordan sneakers first came out. A cheerleader is on her knees in front of a basketball player and is asking, "are you sure this is how to inflate these sneakers?"
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Old 10-23-2013, 05:50 PM   #2373
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Originally Posted by Gary in NJ View Post
I popped a code almost immediately before i was tuned.

Which snorkel did you remove? The directions called for the removal of the sound tube and air resonator attached to the side of the airbox. I'm having trouble visualizing a snorkel.
The snorkel is the tube right behind the bumper it feeds "cold air" into the intake.
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Old 10-23-2013, 05:52 PM   #2374
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Originally Posted by Gary in NJ View Post
Drag Reduction doesn't add power at partial throttle, it keeps the compressor wheel from being a restriction. When DR is running properly, you don't know it's there (unless you notice the flicker of the volt meter).
Well by power I meant air, since "air, fuel, and spark = boom." Not enough air reduces power. But I understand what you meant.
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Old 10-23-2013, 05:53 PM   #2375
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Originally Posted by mid_life_crisis View Post
All I can think of right now is a cartoon from the days when Air Jordan sneakers first came out. A cheerleader is on her knees in front of a basketball player and is asking, "are you sure this is how to inflate these sneakers?"
Yeah I wish that happened while I was working on the compressor.
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Old 10-23-2013, 05:55 PM   #2376
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sojhinn View Post
Hey beta testers,

I got an interesting thing for you. For the last 24 hrs I haven't gotten a single engine code, and I can tell you sometimes I haven't followed the 3500 rpm recommended activation. I'm wondering if the reason this is occurring is because of the snorkel. (I removed mine) Am I just getting lucky here, or is it helping?


By the way I'm still not running the tune.
All the tubes are tight? If you turn the car to ON(not running), hit the on switch, and then go wot do you hear the unit start up? That tripped the code for me every time. Don't stand on the pedal for to long but a couple seconds is okay just to hear the dc motor start up.



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Old 10-23-2013, 05:57 PM   #2377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hanni_0176 View Post
Understandable, but that's not what I was getting at. What I meant was that I think the On/Off switch is a bit pointless, considering you have to go WOT to engage the ESC anyway. The system should be constantly 'On' while the car is running. The only point I can see to the On/Off switch is if someone wants to go WOT without the ESC kicking in... but the only situation I can think of where I'd ever want to do that would be during an extended track session, after the batteries on the ESC are drained, and only until they are charged back up enough to get back on the ESC. The again... that in and of itself does seem to make the On/Off switch have some value, so I take back my previous statements. Please disregard my complaint(s) and carry on.
The only time you would want it off is if something went wrong and it went 100 percent throttle or something. Then you want to be able to manually cut the power from the unit. The battery doesn't charge when it is off so your second use case doesn't apply at the track.

Thanks for all the questions BTW everyone... Keep them coming

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Old 10-23-2013, 05:58 PM   #2378
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sojhinn View Post
The snorkel is the tube right behind the bumper it feeds "cold air" into the intake.
You will eventually throw the CEL. It is only a matter of time. I have the Perrin intake installed. Alternatively you may or may not be on to something. Interested to see if it pops in the next day or so.
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Old 10-23-2013, 06:05 PM   #2379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fenton View Post
All the tubes are tight? If you turn the car to ON(not running), hit the on switch, and then go wot do you hear the unit start up? That tripped the code for me every time. Don't stand on the pedal for to long but a couple seconds is okay just to hear the dc motor start up.



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Wouldn't the engine light be on if the car isn't running? Also all connections were tripled checked yesterday during the setback.
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Old 10-23-2013, 06:06 PM   #2380
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Wouldn't the engine light be on if the car isn't running?
I'm at my car right now. Let's get this code triggered. Tell me what to do.
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