Possible FRS Set-Up

[Gam3rBlue]

Originally Posted by Takumi788

Sell yours. Buy one already set up to drift. If I have learned anything in my time spent with racecars its, you can buy a built one for cheaper than you can build one.

You know I actually thought about that but then.... where is the fun ? One thing I never got into when I was in high school, and now I wish I did, was mechanics. So even though I could go out an buy one, Id rather built it my way, and learn some new things on the way. This way, if anything break I may be able to fix it on my own instead of dishing out some $$$


" Cant climb the ladder of success with both hands in the pockets "

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by Gam3rBlue

Well after calling around, Finally found a shop that specializes in high performance cars / track cars/ drift etc and they have a dyno + tune. The only problem is they are about a 3 hour drive from me lol. Shitty small towns. But found out to do a welded Diff or switch out the dif on the FR-S to a LSD is only around 2-300$ With that I sent them a more detailed email telling them what I wanted to do and asked them a few I had regarding basically what we are talking on here about. So hopefully they come back with some good answers.


I even asked if they could write up recommended parts / brands for a couple things and a set up. so I don't destroy my car off the start and spend money on pointless things. See how that turns out, the guy on the phone seemed pretty up for it .

We have a 1-way LSD already, you want a welded Diff or even better a 2-way LSD.

[churchx]

Gam3rBlue: btw, there is lot of worth considering points in suggestion of using dedicated beater drift-missile instead. Best way learning drifting is to actually drift a lot, get lot of seat time. Mistakes are inevitable part of learning process. Cheap old beater "drift-missile" will let you do much more actual drifting, and crash repairs will cost so much less then repairing what your car + budget of high power FI costs. I wouldn't drop idea of eg. getting some old mustang or old bmw or old sx as another car, dedicated for drift purpose. You also live in Canada according your profile nfo. Another good way to get costs down and ease learning - drift on ice tracks. Due lack of grip speeds will be very slow, easing learning, crashes less expensive when running off in snow, and you won't need many tire sets due little wear. Extra power also won't be needed, as even 1/3rd of stock power will make you loose traction. Result wise money is better spent on actual drifting, then making car more capable.
You don't want to find out why drifters bring lot of zip ties along . You don't want to know how much costs front bumper on ours, how much each front light. And how much A/C heat exchanger and refills for it (if it uses expensive 1234yf gas) costs if you damage it. And how much unrepairable aluminium bonnet costs. And with FI you can also damage in front extra parts of it's install, like intercooler, oil cooler and such. Our cars imho are a bit too new/expensive for cheap drift missile allowing to do lot of drifting for cheap unless one has lot of spare money.

[Takumi788]

Originally Posted by Gam3rBlue

You know I actually thought about that but then.... where is the fun ? One thing I never got into when I was in high school, and now I wish I did, was mechanics. So even though I could go out an buy one, Id rather built it my way, and learn some new things on the way. This way, if anything break I may be able to fix it on my own instead of dishing out some $$$


" Cant climb the ladder of success with both hands in the pockets "

I can appreciate that attitude. I have built a few however I intend to purchase my next one. Maybe building a car is something you have to do in order to realize you should have just bought one.

In drifting you are going to have your fair share of fixing things. No worries about that. If you aren't mechanically inclined now, you will be. lol

" Cant climb the ladder of motorsports success without taking the wallet out of your pocket." - me

[Tristor]

I don't want this to come off as mean, but based on this thread it sounds like you don't really know how to drive yet. And by drive, I don't mean cruise control on the highway. Before you spend any money on any modifications, you need to learn how to drive so you can feel the car properly and understand what those modifications are going to do. Even in a drift setup you want to have a balanced car, that is designed to only step out when you want it to.



Start by getting some professional instruction at your local track with the car basically bone stock. Only thing I'd recommend changing is getting better brake pads and fluids. Go on the OEM prius tires, even, as it'll help you get to the limit quicker and can be a good way to learn skid control. Go do this several times, you need seat time and instruction. Then find a local drift even, ice tracks are great, but even parking lot drifts can be good. You need time on the skid pad.


After you've learned a few things, you'll have a much better idea of what you actually need to do. You don't need big power to drift on this platform, although it can help at a certain point. What you need mostly is skill and suspension modifications.

[Lantanafrs2]

From what I recall, the professional drifters moved away from the fa20 rather quickly. Hard to beat a v8.

[Gam3rBlue]

Originally Posted by Lantanafrs2

From what I recall, the professional drifters moved away from the fa20 rather quickly. Hard to beat a v8.

True but I am far from professional. I also like the FR-S I have always wanted one since it came out.

[churchx]

Professional drifters need lot of grip, however that counterintuitive may sound, for extra control and speed, and lot of power to drift with those grippy wide tires. While there were few relatively high power FA20 builds, they most probably won't stand to that level of abuse for long, just like by time very few in pro drift scene sticked with SR20. One could get high power out of such low displacement and light engines, but not everybody has in budget spare engine for every event, when average power went way past 500hp, rather nearing 700-1000hp now. No wonder that swap to engines like JZ, or big displacement engines from muscle cars are most common in that scene.
Then again, for OP it seemed more for fun/learning, not for competitive pro level, and for such one can get by with way lower power, especially if not pairing with low threadwear wide tires with very low pressure.
Though then again, drifting in winter will lover plank even lower then that. No wonder very popular (like even 90-100 drivers at some of stages with very high competition where even prodrifters not always are successful enough) winter drifting series in Russia mostly have participators there on ages old soviet rwd cars (eg. vaz 2102) with like 60-90hp engines. If it is on "civil/legal" studded tires, not rally long-studded tires, that power is more then sufficient. And so are 200hp of our cars stock.

[Gam3rBlue]

Originally Posted by Tristor

I don't want this to come off as mean, but based on this thread it sounds like you don't really know how to drive yet. And by drive, I don't mean cruise control on the highway. Before you spend any money on any modifications, you need to learn how to drive so you can feel the car properly and understand what those modifications are going to do. Even in a drift setup you want to have a balanced car, that is designed to only step out when you want it to.



Start by getting some professional instruction at your local track with the car basically bone stock. Only thing I'd recommend changing is getting better brake pads and fluids. Go on the OEM prius tires, even, as it'll help you get to the limit quicker and can be a good way to learn skid control. Go do this several times, you need seat time and instruction. Then find a local drift even, ice tracks are great, but even parking lot drifts can be good. You need time on the skid pad.


After you've learned a few things, you'll have a much better idea of what you actually need to do. You don't need big power to drift on this platform, although it can help at a certain point. What you need mostly is skill and suspension modifications.

How true; but a stated above somewhere, I am going to the track this weekend to talk to the local guys who drift and see what's up. I am also going to get out and practise and maybe find some one to teach. But regardless of "seat" time I will eventually know how to drift and I want to be able to build "my" perfect drift car. Which yes, you are right, comes from seat time. But I like to plan ahead so this is more to see what people prefer on the car, what works and what does not, what is a waste of money and was it not. So that when I start to build my car, I am not wasting money on things and on shit brands that I " thought" was good.


You are right I limited experience, other than Winter fun in a parking lot. Which is why I am asking questions on here and soon to be going to the track.


With that said, for w.e reason, the majority of my cars have been FWD even though I have always wanted a RWD to race and drift. So now, since I am set up in life, I plan to do what I have always wanted to do.

[Gam3rBlue]

So looked up some 2-way LSD's and I can get one for just under 1000$ which too me doesn't seem like a lot of $$. With the way y 'all where talking I though it was going to be crazy expensive.


Was looking at the Tomei Trax Advance. 2 way- LSD


And, to install its around 3-400$ also not bad ( hopefully my buddy knows how to install one) save me an extra 400$ lol


It is either that or If I can find a decent one from a Junkyard.


I was also looking at suspension kits- since its probably one of the first things that should be done.


what do you guys think of WiseFab ?


They have a front drift kit out for around 3000$ and the supporting rear suspension kit for the same price. bit pricey but I guess it more or less comes with everything you need. I am always a bit skeptical of buying kits; since there is a high chance of them being shitty; reviews seem to be alright for them.


Also; Greddy Preformace Coilovers. They seem pretty nice and only 1377$


Thoughts ?

[Gam3rBlue]

Originally Posted by churchx

Gam3rBlue: btw, there is lot of worth considering points in suggestion of using dedicated beater drift-missile instead. Best way learning drifting is to actually drift a lot, get lot of seat time. Mistakes are inevitable part of learning process. Cheap old beater "drift-missile" will let you do much more actual drifting, and crash repairs will cost so much less then repairing what your car + budget of high power FI costs. I wouldn't drop idea of eg. getting some old mustang or old bmw or old sx as another car, dedicated for drift purpose. You also live in Canada according your profile nfo. Another good way to get costs down and ease learning - drift on ice tracks. Due lack of grip speeds will be very slow, easing learning, crashes less expensive when running off in snow, and you won't need many tire sets due little wear. Extra power also won't be needed, as even 1/3rd of stock power will make you loose traction. Result wise money is better spent on actual drifting, then making car more capable.
You don't want to find out why drifters bring lot of zip ties along . You don't want to know how much costs front bumper on ours, how much each front light. And how much A/C heat exchanger and refills for it (if it uses expensive 1234yf gas) costs if you damage it. And how much unrepairable aluminium bonnet costs. And with FI you can also damage in front extra parts of it's install, like intercooler, oil cooler and such. Our cars imho are a bit too new/expensive for cheap drift missile allowing to do lot of drifting for cheap unless one has lot of spare money.

Also something I thought of.....have a junky to learn to drift and stuff in but.... IDK.. maybe; its a maybe. lol I might still, just gonna be a lot of cars at my house lol and I move around a lot for work. But you are right... Id hate to build this car up just to smash it into something but I guess that's the chance you take right ? I doubt ill be doing anything more then hitting up the drift pad and going around cones. I can't see my self "drift racing" and I don't believe the track by me allows you to drift on it. So probably just the drift pad... where there is nothing to hit lol.


If for w.e reason I ended up racing... I mean the fr-s by then will be so old it will be a junker lol. ...dam near 8 yrs old now.

[Gam3rBlue]

Originally Posted by Takumi788

" Cant climb the ladder of motorsports success without taking the wallet out of your pocket." - me

Lol nice quote, I like that

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by Gam3rBlue

So looked up some 2-way LSD's and I can get one for just under 1000$ which too me doesn't seem like a lot of $$. With the way y 'all where talking I though it was going to be crazy expensive.


Was looking at the Tomei Trax Advance. 2 way- LSD


And, to install its around 3-400$ also not bad ( hopefully my buddy knows how to install one) save me an extra 400$ lol


It is either that or If I can find a decent one from a Junkyard.


I was also looking at suspension kits- since its probably one of the first things that should be done.


what do you guys think of WiseFab ?


They have a front drift kit out for around 3000$ and the supporting rear suspension kit for the same price. bit pricey but I guess it more or less comes with everything you need. I am always a bit skeptical of buying kits; since there is a high chance of them being shitty; reviews seem to be alright for them.


Also; Greddy Preformace Coilovers. They seem pretty nice and only 1377$


Thoughts ?

Its a lot of money for something that doesn't really "add" performance, it just lets you drift without the 1-way lsd acting like an open diff when off throttle.
Just curious what your budget is for this?

For drifting you want 3-4 degrees front camber, 1/8" total toe out front and 0-.5 degree rear camber with 1/8" toe in rear, and about 1.5" total drop, a little lowered but not slammed. You can get a steering angle kit for the front as well.
This is a good place to start.
then build the trans to handle power,
you could put on FI and run it at about 275-300whp for a while before having engine problems and needing a built block to handle 350-400whp for drifting.

Tire/wheel setup is dependent largely on power, and skill. At 350-400whp you would probably be good on 225/45r17 front and 245-255/40r17 rear. its a balance between having as much grip as possible but still be able to lose rear traction to drift. with stock power stock tires are fine.

[churchx]

my choice would be 250whp build though, and high threadwear rated 215 tires lasting whole event, instead of 400whp and tires lasting 2-4 runs . More seat time/training will make one better drifter. At fixed budget and carrying capacity of trailer for spare wheels/tires, higher power may simply cause ending event much sooner due running out of tires, allowing to actually drift and actually learn less then if in more modest build.

86TOYO2k17: why staggered tire sizing? o_O
Sounds like inducing lot of understeer. And if anything, with quickly wearing tires out, i'd wish to get more out of limited count of spare wheels with tires i carried to event via rotating them to even out wear.