Wheel stud replacement

[Defuser]

Anyone have any issues with Vorshlag studs?

I am going to be using 5mm spacers up front and 12mm in the back, Vorshlag seem to be perfect for this application.

[CenCali86]

I am running the ARP extended studs with a 20mm spacer up front and 25mm in the rear. Since they only sold 25mm as a bolt on option I pressed out the other set of studs and just used them as slip on spacers.

I have been running this setup for about 5-6 months now with no problems.

Originally Posted by Krovi

Sorry for the thread revival, but does anyone know for sure if 25mm spacers fit on the ARP studs?

[bryan767]

So I have to do the fronts this weekend. I plan to hammer the studs a bit while they are bolted to the hub (just to loosen them a tad-anyone know if that'll be possible/clearance behind??), then remove the hubs, and hammer them out the rest of the way. I also plan to use the washer method to put them back in.
I'll repost with washer size.

I have to do this for my car due to my 17x9 +45 rpf1s with 245/40 sport comps on eibach pro springs - I was told I could use 3mm spacers but that was a lie. I need 8-10mm.
I will be using ichiba as Ive had good experience in the past.

[Gopherboy6956]

Originally Posted by bryan767

So I have to do the fronts this weekend. I plan to hammer the studs a bit while they are bolted to the hub (just to loosen them a tad-anyone know if that'll be possible/clearance behind??), then remove the hubs, and hammer them out the rest of the way. I also plan to use the washer method to put them back in.
I'll repost with washer size.

I have to do this for my car due to my 17x9 +45 rpf1s with 245/40 sport comps on eibach pro springs - I was told I could use 3mm spacers but that was a lie. I need 8-10mm.
I will be using ichiba as Ive had good experience in the past.

Just take the whole assembly out then hammer them out. To save your bearings, use something like a vice to hold the top of the hub to keep from hammering the bearing.

Also, i'm currently running 17x8 + 48 RP01's with 245/40s on coils with no rub - for reference. No spacers or anything.

[bryan767]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

That can scratch the hell out of the mating surface between the wheel and lugnut though, depends on how much you care I suppose

You wont know if the stud is fully mated this way.


and yea, its these eibach pro springs are stupid wide. Shoulda went with coils.
Will take your advice and save the bearing, don't wanna damage that lol.

Edit: Studs arrived, will be taking pictures of the other way of uninstalling/installing these this weekend - aka a Big C-Clamp that I use to depress calipers.

Just so we are clear, you do NOT have to remove the hubs to remove these studs (atleast for the FRONT). There IS enough room to wiggle one stud out at a time. If you're going install anything longer than 10mm+ stock however, you will have to remove the hub to install them.

The biggest issue with just hammering these out, is keeping the bearing in tact. So the DIY way around this is a C-Clamp with a socket on one end, or this style of tierod remover tool:

[Gopherboy6956]

I still have to do my rears. Fronts were cake with the hubs removed. At least with the rear, you know the work going into it before you start.

BUUUUT - ARP studs = worth it.

[Agent 86]

Originally Posted by bryan767

You wont know if the stud is fully mated this way.


and yea, its these eibach pro springs are stupid wide. Shoulda went with coils.
Will take your advice and save the bearing, don't wanna damage that lol.

Edit: Studs arrived, will be taking pictures of the other way of uninstalling/installing these this weekend - aka a Big C-Clamp that I use to depress calipers.

Just so we are clear, you do NOT have to remove the hubs to remove these studs (atleast for the FRONT). There IS enough room to wiggle one stud out at a time. If you're going install anything longer than 10mm+ stock however, you will have to remove the hub to install them.

The biggest issue with just hammering these out, is keeping the bearing in tact. So the DIY way around this is a C-Clamp with a socket on one end, or this style of tierod remover tool:

Where did you find that C clamp?

I removed the hub from my car today, only to discover that the studs supplied with my H&R 5mm spacers were only 2mm longer than the OEM studs!

So now I need to find studs around 5 - 10 mm longer than stock, and a method for removing the stock studs. As a test, I tried tapping the stock studs with a hammer, and they didn't budge! :eye bulge:

[ThreeEyedCrow]

Originally Posted by Agent 86

Where did you find that C clamp?

I removed the hub from my car today, only to discover that the studs supplied with my H&R 5mm spacers were only 2mm longer than the OEM studs!

So now I need to find studs around 5 - 10 mm longer than stock, and a method for removing the stock studs. As a test, I tried tapping the stock studs with a hammer, and they didn't budge! :eye bulge:

I just recently did one of my rears. I didn't remove the hub, just the caliper and rotor. Then grabbed a BFH and gave one good wack and out it came. Not too difficult to do.

[Kosmos]

Any tutorials or maybe someone from here can tell me how to remove the rear hubs

[Agent 86]

Originally Posted by ThreeEyedCrow

I just recently did one of my rears. I didn't remove the hub, just the caliper and rotor. Then grabbed a BFH and gave one good wack and out it came. Not too difficult to do.

Not sure about the rear, but on the front, the bearing will "bear" the brunt of each blow delivered to each of the 5 studs. Not a good thing, IMO.

[BatStig]

Just did both axles with a ball joint separator. Couldn't be easier. Thanks @Dave-ROR and @bpracer

[Kosmos]

You don't have to remove the 4 14mm bolts. Just whack out the hub and grease that baby up

[bryan767]

So now I ordered ARP extended studs, they are supposed to have a .565 (14.351mm) knurl, whereas stock is allegedly just (14.35mm? -Need to verify oem). Ichiba's have to be 14.30-14.32mm.

As for the C-Clamp (which is still doable in a pinch), I ditched the idea when I came across a really nice DIY thread on a different website, mentioning a Harbor Freight ball joint separator tool. It features a removable pin/fulcrum and higher holes to increase the range to accommodate much longer studs. It works FLAWLESSLY for removing studs without removing the hub, and no bearing damage!!

http://m.harborfreight.com/3-4-quart...tor-99849.html

[jdmblood]

What kind of spacers are you supposed to run with extended studs? All i find are spacers with studs already built in.