Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[johl]

During a fast paced canyon run today I noticed my brakes would feel like the abs was pulsing when braking. This only occurred when the road was not flat (ie: there was a wheel with less load on it) as a result my brakes felt almost useless as all I was getting was abs feedback and they were barely pulling the car up at all.

Back ground info that may help:
- tires are ad09r 255/35/18
- brakes were not hot at all
- pads and rotors are standard gts but with braided brake lines and standard fluid
- driving aids were still on

Anyone have any ideas? I have my first track day in 2 weeks and there are some very unforgiving walls near braking zones there so I would like to get this issue resolved.

[Pat]

Originally Posted by johl

During a fast paced canyon run today I noticed my brakes would feel like the abs was pulsing when braking. This only occurred when the road was not flat (ie: there was a wheel with less load on it) as a result my brakes felt almost useless as all I was getting was abs feedback and they were barely pulling the car up at all.

Back ground info that may help:
- tires are ad09r 255/35/18
- brakes were not hot at all
- pads and rotors are standard gts but with braided brake lines and standard fluid
- driving aids were still on

Anyone have any ideas? I have my first track day in 2 weeks and there are some very unforgiving walls near braking zones there so I would like to get this issue resolved.

I expect what you are feeling is the driving aids kicking in. They are simply doing what they are designed to do. Turn them off and do the same drive safely, then report back.

[cjd]

Originally Posted by johl

During a fast paced canyon run today I noticed my brakes would feel like the abs was pulsing when braking. This only occurred when the road was not flat (ie: there was a wheel with less load on it) as a result my brakes felt almost useless as all I was getting was abs feedback and they were barely pulling the car up at all.

Back ground info that may help:
- tires are ad09r 255/35/18
- brakes were not hot at all
- pads and rotors are standard gts but with braided brake lines and standard fluid
- driving aids were still on

Anyone have any ideas? I have my first track day in 2 weeks and there are some very unforgiving walls near braking zones there so I would like to get this issue resolved.

I'd first verify ABS is doing what you expect. Force it to engage in a safe place where you can stop HARD in a straight line. Stay in it. It's tough on pads, but the car should still stop rather quickly - not quite as quickly as if you'd not engaged ABS, but close. Once ABS hits you need to use maximum force on the pedal for it to work at its best, unless you have room to release the brake and re-apply with slightly less force, hopefully not hitting ABS.


I don't recall ever running into the nannies under braking, only after releasing and while turning. Doesn't mean it doesn't happen, of course.


Could also be EBD, which only goes away with pedal dance.



Nannies off can definitely help, but you have to be on your game.

[Joesurf79]

Originally Posted by Pat

I expect what you are feeling is the driving aids kicking in. They are simply doing what they are designed to do. Turn them off and do the same drive safely, then report back.

I'd agree with Pat that this is likely the culprit. With 255 width rubber, there is a lot of grip left on the table when the electronic "fun police" intervene - and when they do intervene it can be upsetting to the chassis if it's loaded in a long sweeping corner.

[Code Monkey]

With endlinks like Hotchkis, that are adjustable only on one side, how do I make sure there is no preload on the sway bar?

With endlinks like Whiteline that are adjustable on both sides, I can shorten and lengthen the endlink and lock it in that sweet position where the endlink is neither pulling nor pushing on the bar. There is no way of doing it with the Hotchkis endlink.

[Casey10s]

Hello,


My wheel alignment is out and I am trying to been on the track about 15 times but I still use it for street though it is not my main street car. I was looking for settings that would help on the track but not throw off the car for street driving.


I will hopefully be running 245/40-17 RE-71R for my next track day and I do not have any suspension modifications.


The mechanic will do the settings if I tell him what I want. Also, should I have the new tires on or doesn't it matter? I now have 225/45-17 on the car and will swap these back on if I don't have track days.


Thanks in advance.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Casey10s

Hello,


My wheel alignment is out and I am trying to been on the track about 15 times but I still use it for street though it is not my main street car. I was looking for settings that would help on the track but not throw off the car for street driving.


I will hopefully be running 245/40-17 RE-71R for my next track day and I do not have any suspension modifications.


The mechanic will do the settings if I tell him what I want. Also, should I have the new tires on or doesn't it matter? I now have 225/45-17 on the car and will swap these back on if I don't have track days.


Thanks in advance.

How do you know your alignment is out?

All you can do is toe on a stock suspension.

[Casey10s]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

How do you know your alignment is out?

All you can do is toe on a stock suspension.

Tires on one side are wearing a lot differently than the other side. Just started to do this during the last two track days.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Casey10s

Tires on one side are wearing a lot differently than the other side. Just started to do this during the last two track days.

Are you... possibly turning one direction more than the other? Cuz tracks usually finish a complete loop

[slyphen]

Originally Posted by Casey10s

Tires on one side are wearing a lot differently than the other side. Just started to do this during the last two track days.

thats likely because you are turning more to one side than the other. if the tire is bi-directional, just rotate them. if not, go get them flipped (unless the tire has an inside/outside).

[cool7]

I have a BRZ, it has the stock suspension with added front camber (via bolts) and stock tires/brakes. Also have MCA rear traction mod.

However, i'm looking to get DTC60 for the fronts, should I choose the same for the rear?
I haven't tracked with the pedal dance mode before. If I turn on Pedal dance mode, will I be ok with stock rear pads and DTC60 front?

If my budget allows I would like to get NT01s as well.

[TurtReynolds]

You shouldn't mix compounds, let alone mixing such a large differential in compounds of brake material unless you're looking for a very specific effect. You're going to unbalance the braking force on the car as a result and possibly cause an incident on track doing so.

Your compound at all four corners should match.

That said I would look at a different compound besides Hawk. Perhaps Winmax (W5 or W6) or Project Mu; but that's me. I didn't have a good experience with Hawk.

[johl]

Thanks for all the help about my braking issue. Did a track day this morning and didn’t experience the pulsating issue at all.

Next on the mod list is either an oil cooler or pads and rotors. I’ll have to start doing my research on which ones I should buy

[LittleChuuChuu]

Hi Mike, when I’m doing high speed sweeps, such as turn 2 at THill East I can feel some vibration in the rear but when I accelerate more it goes away. Could it be my suspension maxing out since I have a gutted rear, apr gt200 wing and only lowering springs? I originally thought it was my tires but talking with someone this weekend he mentioned it could be suspension.