HELP!!!! OFT flashed back to stock rom, now throws P0304

[Frs30]

I just removed my Borla UEL header and reinstalled the stock manifold. I then flashed my ecu back to the stock rom via open flash tablet. Upon driving home it felt jerky. When I went to pull in my parking spot the engine was idling very rough and fighting to stay running. Upon sitting still it finally shut itself off from the rough idle. I ran the diagnostic and said its a P0304 code. I reset the light and immediately came back on while sitting still for 15 seconds. What could it possibly be? Any way to try and re flash the ecu? Anyone know how to get a hold of OFT support? Desperately needing a solution as it doesn't run and I'm afraid I'm causing harm.

[Shiv@Openflash]

Originally Posted by Frs30

I just removed my Borla UEL header and reinstalled the stock manifold. I then flashed my ecu back to the stock rom via open flash tablet. Upon driving home it felt jerky. When I went to pull in my parking spot the engine was idling very rough and fighting to stay running. Upon sitting still it finally shut itself off from the rough idle. I ran the diagnostic and said its a P0304 code. I reset the light and immediately came back on while sitting still for 15 seconds. What could it possibly be? Any way to try and re flash the ecu? Anyone know how to get a hold of OFT support? Desperately needing a solution as it doesn't run and I'm afraid I'm causing harm.

P0304 is a misfire cyl 4 code. If you flashed your ECU back to stock, it has nothing to do with tuning and more to do with the mechanical work you did. Check to make sure that the connector to the cylinder 4 coil is fully plugged in. Perhaps you accidentally yanked it out while wrenching on your car.

[JB86'd]

That's a misfire on cylinder 4. Could be a couple different things.

Could be camshaft position sensor, and being that your car is a 2013 this could apply:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45844

Or it could be a coil pack issue. I wouldn't drive the car.

And yeah..what Shiv said too^

[Frs30]

Thanks for the advice. Would the ground cable laying right on top of the O2 sensor wire cause any issues? I checked the connector going to the coils and they appear to be plugged in. I can't drive it back to my lift to take the bottom splash guard off to get a closer look. Is it accessible from the side wheel well?

[Frs30]

Where is cylinder number 4 located on the engine? Is it the passenger side towards the firewall or towards the front bumper?

[Shiv@Openflash]

Originally Posted by Frs30

Where is cylinder number 4 located on the engine? Is it the passenger side towards the firewall or towards the front bumper?

The rear cyl closest to the driver.

[Frs30]

Hey Shiv. I'm just throwing this out there, and forgive me if this comes off as a stupid question. If your saying cylinder 4 is the cylinder closest to the firewall on the drivers side, then I know for a fact I didn't touch anything over there while doing the header removal because the O2 sensors are on the passenger side. It just seems odd that literally right after I flash back to my stock tune, the engine runs rough and throws a code. My stupid question is, when the stock rom is saved to the device, does the OFT also save how the engine was running at the time of the save? I.e. Cam position, or anything? Or does it just save the file and once it's reloaded to the ecu it then re learns everything? In other words, when I re flashed back to stock, I didn't wait the period of time that a person would wait after flashing the ecu to say a stage 2 tune for instance. Should I have let it idle and then drive it under 4000rpm for a while before laying on it? Is there a possibility that I could save the stock rom back to the OFT, load a stage 1 tune, and then reload my stock tune and let it relearn everything again? It's just hard for me to believe that it ran like a champ right before I changed out the header and the tune, and now it's throwing cylinder codes and possibly a cam sensor TSB. Hope this all made some sense. I guess what I'm asking is if it's worth re flashing back to a stage 1 tune, and then flashing it back to stock and letting it relearn. Thanks

[SteveIsBored]

A faulty cam sensor would not cause a misfire, plus u would have a cam code stored. The first thing I would do is take the coil from 4 and swap it with coil 2. Clear the codes then start the car. If ur misfire moves to cylinder 2 then you know u have a bad coil. Also if u disconnected any grounds that can cause issues. Check connections at the O2 sensors and make sure there is no exhaust leaks

[Frs30]

So I'm assuming coil four is on the rear of the drivers side, and coil 2 is in the front of the drivers side?

[SteveIsBored]

Yep

[Frs30]

I'll give this a try tomorrow if it isn't raining. Thanks

[DAEMANO]

Originally Posted by SteveIsBored

A faulty cam sensor would not cause a misfire, plus u would have a cam code stored. The first thing I would do is take the coil from 4 and swap it with coil 2. Clear the codes then start the car. If ur misfire moves to cylinder 2 then you know u have a bad coil. Also if u disconnected any grounds that can cause issues. Check connections at the O2 sensors and make sure there is no exhaust leaks

Best advice so far.
@Frs30
Remember, coilpacks constantly go bad on this car. This happens in every cylinder. It's probably a faulty or not tolerant enough design with the coil packs themselves. Try the above for sure.

[steve99]

Originally Posted by Frs30

Hey Shiv. I'm just throwing this out there, and forgive me if this comes off as a stupid question. If your saying cylinder 4 is the cylinder closest to the firewall on the drivers side, then I know for a fact I didn't touch anything over there while doing the header removal because the O2 sensors are on the passenger side. It just seems odd that literally right after I flash back to my stock tune, the engine runs rough and throws a code. My stupid question is, when the stock rom is saved to the device, does the OFT also save how the engine was running at the time of the save? I.e. Cam position, or anything? Or does it just save the file and once it's reloaded to the ecu it then re learns everything? In other words, when I re flashed back to stock, I didn't wait the period of time that a person would wait after flashing the ecu to say a stage 2 tune for instance. Should I have let it idle and then drive it under 4000rpm for a while before laying on it? Is there a possibility that I could save the stock rom back to the OFT, load a stage 1 tune, and then reload my stock tune and let it relearn everything again? It's just hard for me to believe that it ran like a champ right before I changed out the header and the tune, and now it's throwing cylinder codes and possibly a cam sensor TSB. Hope this all made some sense. I guess what I'm asking is if it's worth re flashing back to a stage 1 tune, and then flashing it back to stock and letting it relearn. Thanks

as per the other guy swap the coil packs

heaps of guys have coil pack failures if your car is back to stock with stock tune take it to dealer if its still under warantee.

Each time you flash the ecu or reset the ecu (ie remove battery terminal) DTC/CEL codes are cleared and all learned parameters ie fuel trims and knock correction parameters are reset to default. Throttle position and vvt initial positions will need to be re learned. just let it idle for a minute afeter flash reset then you sweet, doing a couple of light steady throttle runs from 2000-6000 will help set fuel trims quicker, though not really necessary.

this goes for any tune using any tuning device.

[Frs30]

Hey everyone. I wanted to wait a few days before posting this, just in case it was a fluke. On Friday morning I went out to my car and started it up and it ran horrible and was misfiring and throwing the code again after I had cleared it. I figured it couldn't hurt to test my theory and reflash a stage 1 tune on it again and then flash back to stock and see if it still misfired and threw the code. I flashed it to a stage 1 93 octane tune, started it up and it still ran like crap and threw a code. I then re flashed it back to stock again but this time after the tune, I turned the key to the on position and waited a minute, then started the car. It misfired for 10 seconds while it idled and then immediately stopped and started running how it used to. I let it idle for two minutes, then drove it for 5 miles under 4000rpm, then drove it normally for Friday and Saturday and so far I've put 50 miles on it and it hasn't acted up since. Could it have just been a bad flash? I went so far as to make an appointment with the dealer on Monday since it was under warranty and didn't want start swapping coils so the dealer could yell at me, but now it looks to be operating correctly. I'll keep you posted but I wanted to share. I'm hoping with it being driven 50 miles since it happened that I can assume it won't arise again.