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Old 05-05-2014, 08:16 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by stugray View Post
Those seem lean to me. But I didnt sleep at a holiday inn express last night.
14.7 is ideal for idle, but anything over 12.5 at WOT for a high compression engine like this is too much. Many tuners prefer 11.8 - 12.2, but depending on how aggressive you go, 12.5 should really be the limit. Longevity of parts becomes an issue at that point with many bolt-on kits.
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:38 PM   #44
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Whatever the cause, I hope your able to quickly nurse your 86 back to health. I've blown engines before and it's the worst feeling - especially when you see other cars like yours and you're driving a lesser car.
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:38 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by mav1178 View Post
OK.

So you think there's a known valvetrain problem. And how are you reaching this conclusion?

The fixes for cam sensor-related issues are not extensive, they are (at worse) a replacement of the oil control solenoid valve or cam sprocket. Even if these items aren't working, the valvetrain still will open/close at regular intervals (but the nonfunctioning solenoid may cause an emissions issue or an engine code issue)

I asked the question because I question the way you reached this conclusion, that your engine failure issue isn't related to your FI.

Just because you're not under boost doesn't mean your engine is bulletproof from issues associated with FI. If the tune leaning out is causing the engine to fail, that's very much a FI-related issue and you won't get warranty coverage.

-alex

Edit: I know you are referencing the issue with the list of owners with CEL/cam problems, but the way you are reaching the conclusion is a bit of a stretch. Similar symptoms does not mean the same diagnosis.
Catastrophic engine failure due to cam malfunction, there's a half dozen cars on that list that had and engine blow up for unexplained reason, a couple people that posted had exactly the same scenario happen. Just seem a bit of a coincidence. You do get that i have already purchased a low mileage engine for the car, waiting on it to arrive now. I am however concerned that there may be some underlying issue that either a. could be known enough to get me a replacement engine under warranty. and b. could be addressed on the engine i put into the car myself if the dealer refuses to cover it.

The way it's looking is i don't entirely trust what the dealer is saying about bringing the car in to be looked at. i feel like they're going to reject the repair then charge some sort of "diagnostic fee" or something for me to get my car back. hence i'm trying to hear some input from other people who've blown an engine. plus once i get my engine out i will tear it apart and figure out what failed, possibly do a writeup on it so that a cause/ solution could be figured out.
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:42 PM   #46
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Also, even if the car is running lean, which it did not seem to be, how does that lead to catastrophic valvetrain failure? Coolant and oil temps were low, and load was low..
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:11 PM   #47
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you quoted that thread. so...did you have check engine lights?


honestly, if a dealer agrees to replace the motor, KNOWING you were FI. corporate should shut the dealer down...


as for running lean causing valvetrain problems. its quite simply the worst enemy to any part of the valvetrain. which is why 98% of tuners will tune on the rich side. which I hate to say it. but from what ive seen and read, is the complete opposite of what the person who tuned yours is known for.


good luck on your new engine. I honestly hope it works out better for you than the past.
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:28 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by Dmitri View Post
is there a better way of sharing them on here than print screen?
http://datazap.me/

Takes a second to make an account and then upload the logs.
Then post the link here.

Like this:
http://datazap.me/u/stugray/za1ja00c...?log=0&data=41
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:31 PM   #49
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Also, even if the car is running lean, which it did not seem to be, ..
You dont consider:
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Originally Posted by Dmitri View Post
14.5-15.1 at steady cruse,
to be Lean???
And I have heard of at least one engine failure where the correct conversion for AFR was in the ROM which meant the car was running even leaner than the stock gauge was reporting.
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:33 PM   #50
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You dont consider:
to be Lean???
cruising at a steady rpm as in hwy driving the car ran at 14.7 bone stock, that was the commanded afr on the factory map too..if i let off slightly it would go to 15.1 then when it entered boost it would go to 12s
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:36 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by J_kennington View Post
you quoted that thread. so...did you have check engine lights?


honestly, if a dealer agrees to replace the motor, KNOWING you were FI. corporate should shut the dealer down...


as for running lean causing valvetrain problems. its quite simply the worst enemy to any part of the valvetrain. which is why 98% of tuners will tune on the rich side. which I hate to say it. but from what ive seen and read, is the complete opposite of what the person who tuned yours is known for.


good luck on your new engine. I honestly hope it works out better for you than the past.
ive had the cel go on last year and idle fluctuated, took it to dealer, they said they could not reproduce the problem after clearing the cel, sent me on my way.
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Old 05-06-2014, 08:52 AM   #52
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Now don't get me wrong, i'm by no means defending fa20club, my dealings with them have been absolutely awful, had to file a paypal claim with them to just get my clutch, not to mention originally getting the turbo kit piece by piece over a 6 month period, when it was supposed to be a "couple weeks".
So you have @Frs300 's clutch. !!!
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Old 05-06-2014, 09:06 AM   #53
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So you have @Frs300 's clutch. !!!
no i have my clutch he finally sent it back or should i say he sent me an fx400 dunno if it was mine or not
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Old 05-06-2014, 10:30 AM   #54
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ive had the cel go on last year and idle fluctuated, took it to dealer, they said they could not reproduce the problem after clearing the cel, sent me on my way.
And you never had the cel come back on?

I'm failing to see how your relating the two issues. From what I did read of that thread, the cel and slip light would illuminate and stay lit.

I'm sticking with your tune was the cause. Until logs are posted at least.
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Old 05-06-2014, 12:26 PM   #55
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And you never had the cel come back on?

I'm failing to see how your relating the two issues. From what I did read of that thread, the cel and slip light would illuminate and stay lit.

I'm sticking with your tune was the cause. Until logs are posted at least.
yeah and some of the people experienced unexplained catastrophic engine failure in the same manner, whether it's related to the cel is questionable, but it's suspect that low mileage engines are blowing up in the same manner, fi, and na ones.

http://datazap.me/u/dmitri/brz-log?log=0&data=5 here's some logs of the current tune. 3d gear pull and a 1-4 accel followed by some light cruse in 6th.
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Old 05-06-2014, 01:41 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmitri View Post
yeah and some of the people experienced unexplained catastrophic engine failure in the same manner, whether it's related to the cel is questionable, but it's suspect that low mileage engines are blowing up in the same manner, fi, and na ones.

http://datazap.me/u/dmitri/brz-log?log=0&data=5 here's some logs of the current tune. 3d gear pull and a 1-4 accel followed by some light cruse in 6th.
16 AFR at 77% throttle at ~2500 rpm with knock based on the knock correction value. Sounds like a problem to me. I would never have a FI car hit 16 AFR under any throttle. What rpm did you start making boost at? Hard to tell from the log, as I'm honestly use to a totally different type of software.

Ninja edit, 90% of your AFR values are between 13-16. Leaning out as much as 18 at the tip of the rpm range. Anyone else think he was running insanely lean from his logs?
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