Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by uncivilised

yeah the a050 are quite a bit normally but i have mates in the industry that can help on that

Mates are always good. We here in the States are frequently shocked by what things cost out there in the real world; if we have to pay more than we want, we just scream and cry until things go our way! lol

[becauseracecar1]

Originally Posted by ddeflyer

One thing that will help some is to not do such a binary steering input. Feed steering in to let the car's weight transfer. Specifically you want to have the derivative of your steering lock (so the rate of change) have a curve to it (sort of like a bell curve). The idea here is to get the weight to transfer smoothly so you have more consistent traction.

As there is no view of your hands in the first video I don't know if you were doing it there, but in the second one you are having pretty jerky inputs (though it looks like you smooth it out some for the second lap's start).

I'll definitely work on that!! Thank you!!



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[becauseracecar1]

Does this look normal?


Hawk HP+ pads after a track day and auto x...

Thank you!!
PS: @CSG Mike I will get the carbotechs now!!


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[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by becauseracecar1

Does this look normal?
Attachment 81620Attachment 81621
Attachment 81622
Hawk HP+ pads after a track day and auto x...

Thank you!!
PS: @CSG Mike I will get the carbotechs now!!


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I have no idea WTF happened to the pads, but the rotors tell me that you're smearing the pad compound.

You definitely need higher grade pads.

Any of the race compounds will work, Carbotech included.

I think our Project Mu Club Racer special is ending this week, so you may want to try those if you want to hop on the deal. Otherwise, Carbotechs, Hawk DTCs, etc will all be okay.

[gramicci101]

That looks like the back of the outside pad, so that's probably just a collection of road gunk and dirt. The dirty spots were all exposed to outside air and debris, but it's clean where it was touching the caliper. I'd be a little concerned that the gunk looks very oily though. If it is, where did the oil come from?

[becauseracecar1]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

That looks like the back of the outside pad, so that's probably just a collection of road gunk and dirt. The dirty spots were all exposed to outside air and debris, but it's clean where it was touching the caliper. I'd be a little concerned that the gunk looks very oily though. If it is, where did the oil come from?

It's not oil, it looks like the back of the pads(front pads) caught fire or got really hot as the black covering on the back side melted off. Here is a closer look at the front side and back side of the front and rear pads. Are these pads done?

Hawk HP+
Front pads:




Hawk HP+
Rear Pads





Thank you!!



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[troek]

looks like the paint/protective coating burned off. the white trd letters on my old pads bubbled up and looked oozy like that.

[RFB]

The thickness seems to indicate lottsa life left.



CERBERUS

[akuhei]

Originally Posted by becauseracecar1

It's not oil, it looks like the back of the pads(front pads) caught fire or got really hot as the black covering on the back side melted off. Here is a closer look at the front side and back side of the front and rear pads. Are these pads done?

Hawk HP+
Front pads:

Hawk HP+
Rear Pads

Thank you!!

That happened to mine on the weekend I used them at NOLA. It was the protective paint coating that bubbled/boiled/burned off (i was actually watching it bubbling after I'd finish a 25-minute session). I plan on using them again because, like yours, mine appear to have quite a bit of life left to them and I never had any fading or issues on those days. Its just the back of the pad...

[7thgear]

at what point during rotation at corner exit from WOT does the sliding begin to decrease the vector speed...?


after analyzing my last autocross run against other FRS/BRZ drivers it was made glaringly apparent that I could stand to stand on the gas a lot harder


what I thought was me being gentle with the throttle was simply not enough throttle.. always fearing of having the car drift which leads to lost time.. but I know that there is that certain balance, and curious how others would explain that point in space in time


(I will note however that my carefulness was still enough to land a 2nd place in class finish but I suppose that was due to other factors)

[TrogDor the Burninator]

This may be a silly question, but in my last NASA track event at Heartland Park Topeka I became curious of the optimum RPM to shift at when traversing the long straight.

Typically I find myself shifting around 7200. (Car is NA with only catback exhaust)

At what point does the maxing out of a lower gear actually take speed away from you if you would have shifted instead? Is it best to ride a gear to the redline or shift sooner?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by TrogDor the Burninator

This may be a silly question, but in my last NASA track event at Heartland Park Topeka I became curious of the optimum RPM to shift at when traversing the long straight.

Typically I find myself shifting around 7200. (Car is NA with only catback exhaust)

At what point does the maxing out of a lower gear actually take speed away from you if you would have shifted instead? Is it best to ride a gear to the redline or shift sooner?

Best for lap times? Per dyno, at 7400.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by becauseracecar1

It's not oil, it looks like the back of the pads(front pads) caught fire or got really hot as the black covering on the back side melted off. Here is a closer look at the front side and back side of the front and rear pads. Are these pads done?

Thank you!!



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It looks like the grease you used may have just burned off.

However, even with a lot of pad left, if they faded on you, you need to upgrade a few steps.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by 7thgear

at what point during rotation at corner exit from WOT does the sliding begin to decrease the vector speed...?


after analyzing my last autocross run against other FRS/BRZ drivers it was made glaringly apparent that I could stand to stand on the gas a lot harder


what I thought was me being gentle with the throttle was simply not enough throttle.. always fearing of having the car drift which leads to lost time.. but I know that there is that certain balance, and curious how others would explain that point in space in time


(I will note however that my carefulness was still enough to land a 2nd place in class finish but I suppose that was due to other factors)

If you have to reduce steering input to get around the corner, it's faster. If you're countersteering, it's slower. Not reducing steering input enough MAY result in eventual countersteering, so you have to find the fine balance.

Also, remember that you have to be giving the car a lot of throttle to get into the stage where the torsen is helping you turn. You know that feeling where it feels like the car is sometimes about to rotate, but then it just yaws a few degrees, and then just "hooks"? That's you reaching the limits of your tires, and then the LSD "kicking in", and "increasing" rear grip by forcing the rear tires to work together. From here, the next step is increasing that rotation without getting to the point where you're countersteering.

A (properly tuned) Cutch type LSD substantially smooths out the engagement of the LSD, and makes the window for throttle steering, literally, like 5x bigger. Drivers who can throtte steer a Cutch type LSD can't always throttle steer a Gear type, but those that can throtte steer a Gear type will always be able to transition to a clutch type.