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Old 10-02-2013, 04:33 PM   #85
Dezoris
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick@Vortech View Post
The absolute easiest way to do it is to pull the front bumper off & follow the instructions for installing this tube in the original manual (Also gives you more working space). I did another one yesterday through just the fender well & it was pretty tricky. Here are some quick "off the top of my head" instructions if you wish to leave the bumper on:

1. Jack up the drivers side of the car & secure it with a jack stand.
2. Remove drivers side wheel.
3. Remove the clips & screw securing the fender liner to the bumper & body.

If anyone has any other questions, feel free to ask!
You forgot to mention that its more fun to do after a 2 hour road trip when the engine bay is moderately warm.
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Old 10-02-2013, 06:12 PM   #86
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You forgot to mention that its more fun to do after a 2 hour road trip when the engine bay is moderately warm.
+ doing it in a muggy shop. i felt the body fat melting away!
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Old 10-03-2013, 04:27 AM   #87
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Here's a little instaclip I made just after finishing my BOV install... This BOV surpassed my expectations and I couldn't be more happy with the great sound and quality. I'll post pics of my install as soon as I can get this security token error cleared, it's preventing me from uploading pics.
http://instagram.com/p/e_3G3hNjxa/
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Old 10-03-2013, 05:22 AM   #88
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Does this work on the Auto?

As an auto owner looking for FI, if the answer is yes, I'm sold on Vortech.
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Old 10-03-2013, 07:06 AM   #89
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Does this work on the Auto?

As an auto owner looking for FI, if the answer is yes, I'm sold on Vortech.
Vortech works fine with auto- you need a tuner to tune it for you though.
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Old 10-03-2013, 09:06 AM   #90
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Here's a little instaclip I made just after finishing my BOV install... This BOV surpassed my expectations and I couldn't be more happy with the great sound and quality. I'll post pics of my install as soon as I can get this security token error cleared, it's preventing me from uploading pics.
http://instagram.com/p/e_3G3hNjxa/
That sounds excellent!
A much higher pitch sound than I expected
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Old 10-03-2013, 01:20 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v1ru5 View Post
Vortech works fine with auto- you need a tuner to tune it for you though.
Does the BoV work the same with an AT? Since the vent seems to work between gear changes, the AT is so quick with gear change will we be able to hear the BoV sound?
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Old 10-03-2013, 01:23 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GUYVER116 View Post
Here's a little instaclip I made just after finishing my BOV install... This BOV surpassed my expectations and I couldn't be more happy with the great sound and quality. I'll post pics of my install as soon as I can get this security token error cleared, it's preventing me from uploading pics.
http://instagram.com/p/e_3G3hNjxa/
I started following you on there. Jesus dude. I can't wait to install mine. Sounds kinda like a louder hks ssqv but way better!
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Old 10-03-2013, 01:54 PM   #93
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Does the bov go off from regular daily driving or just when you give it a little push?

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2.
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Old 10-03-2013, 02:19 PM   #94
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Does the BoV work the same with an AT? Since the vent seems to work between gear changes, the AT is so quick with gear change will we be able to hear the BoV sound?
The sound will be subdued by the quick gear changes, though still audible. it activates when the vacuum changes.
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Old 10-03-2013, 10:48 PM   #95
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Welcome to the Vortech MaxFlow LOL Generator
From my journal thread




Quote:
Originally Posted by F1point4 View Post
Vortech MaxFlow LOL Generator


After the long wait, we finally get it. The MaxFlow Race Blow-Off Valve. Sorry @Brian@Vortech, I like my name better.

Basically it replaces the plastic bypass valve on the stock kit and goes to this kit. I've seen some others come with a metal bypass valve/bov(?) but this MaxFlow Kit is something else.

I did some quick and dirty pictures. Let's get to it.

The entire kit. The stock pipe has a cylindrical flange on it which this son of a gun can't attach to. Vortech decided to ship new powdercoated metal pipes to us. I think this is the reason why the kit cost as much as it did!

20131003-VortechMaxFlowRaceBlowOffValve-001 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Pictures of the pipe.

20131003-VortechMaxFlowRaceBlowOffValve-002 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Welding on the flange was good

20131003-VortechMaxFlowRaceBlowOffValve-003 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Got the inside too

20131003-VortechMaxFlowRaceBlowOffValve-005 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Not 100% perfect. I'm still okay overall.

20131003-VortechMaxFlowRaceBlowOffValve-007 by VictorN07, on Flickr


20131003-VortechMaxFlowRaceBlowOffValve-010 by VictorN07, on Flickr


20131003-VortechMaxFlowRaceBlowOffValve-012 by VictorN07, on Flickr

The Blow-Off Valve looks like its made from aluminium. It looks like a typical BOV to me. It is adjustable per the instructions. I decided to leave it standard.

20131003-VortechMaxFlowRaceBlowOffValve-013 by VictorN07, on Flickr


20131003-VortechMaxFlowRaceBlowOffValve-016 by VictorN07, on Flickr


20131003-VortechMaxFlowRaceBlowOffValve-017 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Warning!

20131003-VortechMaxFlowRaceBlowOffValve-018 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Hardware. Pretty simple

20131003-VortechMaxFlowRaceBlowOffValve-021 by VictorN07, on Flickr

I didn't pull my bumper to get it out. I just peeled back the fenderwell lining. I don't have my wiper tank in there for #Racecar

20131003-VortechMaxFlowRaceBlowOffValve-028 by VictorN07, on Flickr

My pipe had some rubbing damage on it. THis is the part that wraps around the crash beam

20131003-VortechMaxFlowRaceBlowOffValve-034 by VictorN07, on Flickr


The standard bypass valve flange, and perspective on my rubbing damage

20131003-VortechMaxFlowRaceBlowOffValve-037 by VictorN07, on Flickr


Gutted. I think i took off about one or two more parts before able to getting it installed for real

20131003-VortechMaxFlowRaceBlowOffValve-040 by VictorN07, on Flickr


I took a good picture of it installed, but I had to remove it prior to installing it into the car

20131003-VortechMaxFlowRaceBlowOffValve-041 by VictorN07, on Flickr


We used a T handle Torx wrench to tighten it down. Doing it this way does scratch the BOV a little bit. This part was not super fun because the pipe won't go into the car without the BOV off.

20131003-VortechMaxFlowRaceBlowOffValve-044 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Installed the BOV does sit close to the accessory belt. I watched it while @Chris@Phastek Revved the crap out of it, and the pipe or engine doesn't move. Note I have Perrin Engine Mounts

20131003-VortechMaxFlowRaceBlowOffValve-046 by VictorN07, on Flickr


20131003-VortechMaxFlowRaceBlowOffValve-054 by VictorN07, on Flickr


20131003-VortechMaxFlowRaceBlowOffValve-058 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Video
Idle Video. My goodness it's loud. Yes I forgot to hook up the breather hose.




Installation: @ft86me asked me if I followed @Rick@Vortech's instruction. I told him that I am a man and I break my shit on my own. haha. Big Huge Thanks to @Chris@Phastek and Phastek Performance for their continual help in developing my car!!!! Here's how I did it

Some notes about my car
+ I don't have a wiper fluid tank
+ I do have an oil cooler, this makes space tight.

1) Floor jack under front and center. Two Jack stands propping up the front of the car
2) Turn ignition on (not car on) and turn the wheels all the way to the right
3) Open the hood
4) Take off three screw driven clips behind the outside bumper in front of the wheel
5) Laying on the ground, remove one 10mm bolt, then pull three rimmed clips. One in the corner, then following the bumper forward get the next one. Then the last on the inside of the rectangle wind breaker. Now the fender lining peels back.
6) Undo two 10mm long black bolts on the front of the airbox.
7) Undo the large clamp on the rubber coupler between the airbox and the blower. Take off the breather tube hose.
8) Because of the oil cooler I undid the two 10mm silver bolts on the right side of the airbox that attach it to the side bracket. On the inside a bracket will come loose and fall. Dont' worry
9) Then I removed the airbox
10) Remove the airbox support bracket that's in front of the oil filler cap. 10mm box wrench will do this.
11) Get back under the car and undo the top clamp for the charge pipe
12) Get up and undo both clamps on the coupler that hold the charge pipe to the blower
13) undo the base clamp on the bypass valve hose.
14) Pull the bypass valve off, yes there is room. Disconnect the hose
15) Take the charge pipe off
16) snake the new charge pipe in. Yes it'll suck.
17) When you get it in, go ahead and mount the BOV to the pipe. Yes the BOV will go on upside down. Don't forget the gasket. Yes it will suck
18) ONce that is on, push the coupler onto the new charge pipe, almost all the way.
19) Then line it up with the blower and slip the coupler off the charge pipe onto the blower.
20) Then get back on the ground and slip the charge pipe back onto the L pipe that goes into the intercooler.
21) Adjust the pipe for clearance to the belt and crashbeam. I rotated the pipe so the BOV would get away from the belt as much as it could. I also pulled the charge pipe away from the L pipe so it wouldn't rub against the crash beam.
22) Once you are happy, clamp it all down. Connect the vacuum hose to the BOV
23) Open the airbox cover and re-install the airbox. Now is a good time to rotate the filter if its dirty
24) Install the side airbox support using that one 10mm bolt
25) the two long black 10mm bolts go back in. Large clamp goes on the rubber coupler. Two 10mm silver bolts go back into the right side of the airbox into that bracket that fell loose on the inside of the airbox.
26) Cover goes back on. Breather tube goes back in. Now you can test the car. Do it.
27) When there is no leaks and you are satisfied, install the bumper and fenderwall lining clips and screws.
28) Lower the car and go for a drive.




Notes from my experience
+The catch can is doing its job, the inside of my airbox is clean as well as the charge pipe. No residual oil.
+The section of the air filter facing the snorkel was super dirty. I rotated my air filter so a clean section was facing the front. I think I only have like 7-8k miles on mine with two track days so far. It was fairly dark in sections.
+the oil cooler made things 10x harder to install.
+Not having a wiper tank made it easy!
+Take the opportunity to check for rubbing while you are in there.
+Two people is great!
+I used adhesive remover to get the sticker off.
+ I didn't pull my bumper, I didn't think it'll make it easier except to get to the coupler where the charge pipe meets the L pipe.
+It took about 2.5 hours



Quick Feedback

As you saw from the video this thing is loud. My car is no longer stealth. It gives that turbo wastegatey noise. I do like it even if its obnoxious. You hear it on startup, blips, shifts, and for me cruising. If i'm going 70mph in 6th, you can hear release of excess air. Yea it's normal to be under vacuum but yea no stealth. I could probably adjust it so it doesn't do it. Getting in there may be hard now that everything is back together.
@Chris@Phastek stood there while i drove off doing some hard pulls. He feedback was, clear, audible sound.

Overall I like it. It does reduce my matureness factor by a factor of 1337x but oh well, #racecar or #ricecar?

Hope y'all enjoyed.

Last edited by F1point4; 10-04-2013 at 12:04 AM.
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Old 10-04-2013, 10:41 AM   #96
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Excellent write-up!

And yes, the valve sits close to the belt, but she ain't gonna touch. We have it on our blue FR-S with stock mounts & hasn't given us any trouble.

Shoot...if your engine flexes THAT much, you have other issues!
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Old 10-05-2013, 08:28 AM   #97
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I watched the video, thought it was an optical illusion, but it looks like the crank pulley stops spinning while the car is still running. Check it out.
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Old 10-05-2013, 08:37 AM   #98
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Quote:
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I watched the video, thought it was an optical illusion, but it looks like the crank pulley stops spinning while the car is still running. Check it out.
It's the AC compressor, which has a clutch.
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