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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.


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Old 10-26-2012, 10:56 AM   #43
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resonated piped boxed up and shipped back to perrin...why? felt more peppy to me. dont care that its louder, I'm not after sound.
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Old 10-26-2012, 12:08 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawaiian View Post
I believe in numbers.
I believe in a thing called love.... and dynos. But I went unresonated and have never looked back (except to check out my smoking tires) and it's been a dream for me. Love unresonated but havent tried the alternative
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Old 10-26-2012, 12:21 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmookher View Post
dyno schmyno

I'm telling ya, dont believe me, thats just fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sony View Post
I have Dyno proof...the un-resonated makes the same power as resonated...all my sound recordings were done on the same dyno under close to the same conditions. Unfortunately I do not have the print out from the un-resonated dyno run as I didn't think about getting them printed out at the time and I was only there for recording purposes that day, but the final number was the same as the resonated.

Basically...get whichever you prefer sound wise...I personally switched back to the resonated as my GF didn't like the louder noise and the more I drove it the more I felt like "that guy with the obnoxious exhaust." Plus later on when I get the front pipe and over pipe I don't want it to be even louder.

Honestly...get whatever you like, but don't go claiming it makes more power...because it doesn't.
oops.
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Old 10-26-2012, 02:25 PM   #46
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+1, some users were reporting the resonator was coming into contact with the transmission tunnel. A little "tap tap" with a rubber mallet on the tunnel should fix that, if that's your issue.

I said it before and I'll say it again: The un-resonated exhaust might be fine noise and sound-wise as just a catback, but I fear for how it will sound when the full exhaust system is replaced - header/overpipe/mid-pipe. Could get too loud and obnoxious. As I plan on doing a full exhaust, I think I'll stick with the resonated.
Hrmm, when I did the install it looked like I had a lot of clearance, but I'll check again now as things might have moved around. The rattle I do have is very minimal and usually just at start up, so I suspect it's not that.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ABQautoxer View Post
Don't hit the car. Just modify the midpipe mounting bracket if needed (widen the slot for the bolt).
If this is it, I'd rather not bash the car. Could you explain in more detail what you mean by this modification?
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Old 10-26-2012, 02:36 PM   #47
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My gf's wrx had a slight rattle on cold starts and it was the exhaust. Must shake more when its cold, lol.

People are blowing the "hitting" the car thing out of proportion. There was one spot and someone took an extended socket, placed it on the spot of contact, and hit it with a hammer to make a nice u bend. I really don't see the big deal in that. I must mess with cars too much LOL.

You would NEVER see this spot, and its not like you are denting a square foot area under there.
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Old 10-26-2012, 02:39 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by xxscaxx View Post
My gf's wrx had a slight rattle on cold starts and it was the exhaust. Must shake more when its cold, lol.

People are blowing the "hitting" the car thing out of proportion. There was one spot and someone took an extended socket, placed it on the spot of contact, and hit it with a hammer to make a nice u bend. I really don't see the big deal in that. I must mess with cars too much LOL.

You would NEVER see this spot, and its not like you are denting a square foot area under there.
OK ya it isn't a big deal. I don't have touch up paint so I'd want to get that...I guess one concern is opening up a spot for rust. I guess it's just the principle of it, as Perrin keeps saying this is NOT required at all.
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Old 10-26-2012, 02:49 PM   #49
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No I understand, but I think some are seeing it like you have to go under there with a 5lb mallot and hack away

The only downside is like you said, if you chip the paint, it will rust. It shouldn't have to be modified either way, the exhaust should fit without doing anything, but I don't think it is too big of a deal if ya had to. ABQ's suggestion about widening the bracket hole on the exhaust is also a good idea.
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Old 10-26-2012, 02:52 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phaedrus29 View Post
If this is it, I'd rather not bash the car. Could you explain in more detail what you mean by this modification?
Check to see if you have a resonator clearance issue. Mine was after adding the midpipe it could touch on the driver's side. So the only bracket the midpipe has it attached to the rear of the transmission. If you slot it (make the hole wider towards the drivers side) that allows the entire center part of the midpipe/catback shift toward the passenger side just another 1/4" or so and no more contact with the car. I do get a start up rattle but its clearly in my case the license plate so I'm going to put some (more) foam tape on the back of the license plate.



That hole on either the factory or aftermarket midpipe.
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Old 10-26-2012, 02:53 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxscaxx View Post
No I understand, but I think some are seeing it like you have to go under there with a 5lb mallot and hack away

The only downside is like you said, if you chip the paint, it will rust. It shouldn't have to be modified either way, the exhaust should fit without doing anything, but I don't think it is too big of a deal if ya had to. ABQ's suggestion about widening the bracket hole on the exhaust is also a good idea.
Hrmmm...I just wasn't sure what ABQ means...I have to get under there and look at the exhaust again. What bracket hole is he talking about? He mentioned the midpipe but did he mean the frontpipe? I didn't see any mounting bracket on the midpipe. I haven't really looked at the frontpipe as I've only done the catback exhaust so far.

------

After looking under there, the clearance really does look fine. I think I'm having more of a "vibration" than a "rattle". It sounds like it's coming from the rear window area...not sure.

Last edited by Phaedrus29; 10-26-2012 at 06:37 PM.
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Old 09-05-2013, 07:39 AM   #52
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I made a comparison video you may check it if you find it helpful

[ame]http://youtu.be/oIMD1FMgVGU[/ame]
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Old 09-05-2013, 08:29 AM   #53
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I just swapped to resonated a couple of days ago. If you are completely stock except for the catback, then the non-resonated is the way to go. As soon as you get a full headerback, throw in headers, FI, intake, etc - the non-resonated starts to get somewhat old. Nowhere near the level of GReddy Evo3, but still too much for prolonged driving.

Even the OP (who is banned under that account but has since resurfaced a few times) eventually went to resonated after getting headers.

Alfalasy's video above is exactly the same experience I had between the two versions.

On that note, I have a non-resonated 2.5" Perrin midpipe that is now available. I have it up for sale for $150 if anyone is interested.

Also, anyone else notice that the Perrin V-Band Clamps are somewhat weak in the thread/nut? As I was removing the clamp, it started to get resistance halfway through the thread (even after spraying it with lube) and once I got it off I noticed that it wore out the thread in the middle. Fortunately, I was able to get it back on and past that point (the thread toward where it's secure was still fine). I'd expect this from $3 clamps, but these things retail for close to $30!
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Old 09-05-2013, 08:38 AM   #54
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yes.

My ass nose all.
Really.. It's that close.. That explains a lot..
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Old 09-05-2013, 09:30 AM   #55
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Nice revival
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Old 09-05-2013, 09:38 AM   #56
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Nice revival
Back at ya
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