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Old 11-14-2018, 09:33 PM   #85
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Fuel lines are done, assuming they don't leak. Checked clearance on my new fans from Spal. Fit just fine. These cost about $95, and move just over 1300 cfm. 13amp so I'll try Sportsguys advice and bump up my fuse one notch to 30amp. If I had to go any higher, I would rewire the fans entirely like ILLSMOQ did.

I think I solved my spark plug issue with some 135degree cut to length wires but I haven't installed them yet. I now have 98% of all the parts I need. Just a few more fittings and... A shiny new Accusump
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Old 11-21-2018, 06:15 PM   #86
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Anyone know what this plug is? Right by the ABS unit
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Old 11-21-2018, 06:29 PM   #87
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Anyone know what this plug is? Right by the ABS unit

AC pressure sensor


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Old 11-21-2018, 06:32 PM   #88
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AC pressure sensor


AHHHHHH that's what's missing there...
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Old 11-22-2018, 11:24 AM   #89
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Got my new feed wire from the alternator. Turns out it's exactly 5 feet from the fuse box along the front lower beam to the driver corner for the low mount alternator.

I tried setting the motor back one slot on the mounts. The valve cover interfered with the clutch master cylinder and my heater connections would have been just barely too long. Now I could have modified/welded my valve cover and Aeroflow in Australia sells 5/8 to -10 Hardline adapters with a 90 degree bend. These should have been compact enough to fit. Also, I think the oil ports would have been free from interfering with the steering rack. BUT... I realized the measurement I took for the drive shaft was with the motor farther forward. So to move the motor now would require a new drive shaft. So it's staying in its original position.

Also, unless you do extra modification to the transmission tunnel, you cannot get the trans and engine in separately. With the steering rack and subframe in place that is. It was close but I couldn't manage it
Did you merge the ls alternator plug with the existing fa20 alternaor wires? If so which wires connected to eachother?

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Old 11-22-2018, 01:22 PM   #90
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Did you merge the ls alternator plug with the existing fa20 alternaor wires? If so which wires connected to eachother?

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I did. I'll have to get back to you on that though. Dunno if it even works. I came to the conclusion I did on wiring by looking at the letters printed on the connectors/alternators and compared them. I wrote it down somewhere but I'm out of town right now
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Old 11-24-2018, 06:11 PM   #91
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Did you merge the ls alternator plug with the existing fa20 alternaor wires? If so which wires connected to eachother?

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Ok so I can't find my notes on the alternator. I am sure I saved them but God knows where they are now... Anyways, the sticker on the stock alternator has a little diagram of a plug with the letters CSL. These should stand for "computer" "sense" "light". The plug I have for my new alternator says SFLP on it. Sense, Field, Light, and Phase. I think I connected P and F to the C wire, Sense to Sense, and Light to Light.

I'll be honest. I have no idea if this is right and I haven't been able to test it yet. Use this information at your own risk.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...art2/#csseries

That's where I got most of my info

Update: alternator seems to work fine like this. I haven't tested output, but it charges so... There's that

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Old 12-01-2018, 04:01 PM   #92
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Fuel lines are done, assuming they don't leak. Checked clearance on my new fans from Spal. Fit just fine. These cost about $95, and move just over 1300 cfm. 13amp so I'll try Sportsguys advice and bump up my fuse one notch to 30amp. If I had to go any higher, I would rewire the fans entirely like ILLSMOQ did.


What fans did you end up going with, what part no? The same I posted (30102029)?

Or did you go with 30201522? I see those cost 95.03 on Summit.
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Old 12-01-2018, 04:07 PM   #93
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What fans did you end up going with, what part no? The same I posted (30102029)?

Or did you go with 30201522? I see those cost 95.03 on Summit.
30101522. I'm 99% certain that they will fit. I held it up to the rad and the fan motor is slightly closer to the floor than the thermostat fitting. So presumably the fan could be even deeper.
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Old 12-01-2018, 04:20 PM   #94
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Made some short spark plug wires. I could have gotten away with just replacing the one that was touching the header but I did all of them. Wrapped in titanium sleeve. Made a super short one for the third back/passenger side as it was the one touching the header. Ended up being a tiny bit shorter than I intended so there is some tension on the wire I'm not happy with but it has plenty of header clearance.

Also got started on my switch panel. I need a switch to activate my Accusump for pre-oiling. I don't use my USB port so I'm deleting it and attaching a carbon fiber plate (eBay) over the face of my dash cubby. Also wired an "active" light for the Accusump right above my odometer control buttons. I have yet to make a mount for the Accusump and I'm still waiting on a solution to my oil lines.

Left to do: install motor with transmission permanently

shifter and reinstall interior panels

Wire the starter

oil and transmission coolers

radiator ducting

Intake

Plumb catch can

Clean up loose ends

Start up
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Old 12-09-2018, 12:01 PM   #95
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Ok guys. Been pondering on modifying my radiator (Koyo) to be triple pass. I could slit the end tanks and insert a divider to force coolant thru in an "S" pattern. My concern is that the now 1/3 cross section won't flow enough and will create a great deal of pressure or will just straight up not flow enough. What do you guys think? I'm thinkin about it because obviously the car is torn apart and I hate redoing stuff. I could get a "universal" triple pass and make it fit if my current setup isn't good enough. But I'd have to pull the radiator out after the fact. I expect a proper triple pass would have greater flow than a modified single but modification is practically free. What do you guys think?
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Old 12-09-2018, 12:12 PM   #96
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Ok guys. Been pondering on modifying my radiator (Koyo) to be triple pass. I could slit the end tanks and insert a divider to force coolant thru in an "S" pattern. My concern is that the now 1/3 cross section won't flow enough and will create a great deal of pressure or will just straight up not flow enough. What do you guys think? I'm thinkin about it because obviously the car is torn apart and I hate redoing stuff. I could get a "universal" triple pass and make it fit if my current setup isn't good enough. But I'd have to pull the radiator out after the fact. I expect a proper triple pass would have greater flow than a modified single but modification is practically free. What do you guys think?


Given I have the swap in hot/humid weather, I’d say keep it simple; 2 pass for now. I have the full blown radiator with the bigger spal fans and have not had any temperature issues after getting the bigger fans AND getting a 160 thermostat from lingenfelter.


If in the future you start seeing any temp issues then go and get the triple pass. I don’t think you’ll have issues unless you’re looking at tracking the car (in which case it might do fine, I just haven’t done yet so I can’t comment on how good will it radiator do).
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Old 12-09-2018, 12:51 PM   #97
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Given I have the swap in hot/humid weather, I’d say keep it simple; 2 pass for now. I have the full blown radiator with the bigger spal fans and have not had any temperature issues after getting the bigger fans AND getting a 160 thermostat from lingenfelter.


If in the future you start seeing any temp issues then go and get the triple pass. I don’t think you’ll have issues unless you’re looking at tracking the car (in which case it might do fine, I just haven’t done yet so I can’t comment on how good will it radiator do).
I have a single pass and I am going to track it
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Old 12-09-2018, 12:54 PM   #98
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I have a single pass and I am going to track it


Ok, hopefully one of the people who have tracked it can chime in
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