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Old 03-12-2019, 04:38 PM   #15
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You need to test how the fuel system is holding pressure over night. I don't know specifically with this car, @Ultramaroon is usually the go-to tech guy here. But most cars have a check valve so fuel won't run back and the engine will keep fuel pressure so when you turn the key, you got fuel pressure right away if that check valve starts to leak in an older car, you get this long crank and the work around is to do what you are doing. Or replace the check valve.

Also could be a leaky injector overnight flooding a cylinder even though the symptoms are a little different.
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Old 03-12-2019, 04:42 PM   #16
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You need to test how the fuel system is holding pressure over night. I don't know specifically with this car, @Ultramaroon is usually the go-to tech guy here. But most cars have a check valve so fuel won't run back and the engine will keep fuel pressure so when you turn the key, you got fuel pressure right away if that check valve starts to leak in an older car, you get this long crank and the work around is to do what you are doing. Or replace the check valve.

Also could be a leaky injector overnight flooding a cylinder even though the symptoms are a little different.
Meh, It's only supposed to hold pressure for 10 minutes. I started to go there last night until I saw the test spec.


I've always waited for my fuel pump to prime before cranking, so...
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Old 03-12-2019, 07:37 PM   #17
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I dont think it is a fuel pressure leak.

Yesterday I tried starting the car (without letting fuel pump prime) after not having driven it for 2 days and it started up fine without extended crank even. Drove to a few different places for groceries / errands and the shut off the engine at 3 different locations and started it up without priming fuel pump (one swift key turn motion) without any extended cranks.

I then drove about 30 mins to the city for an appointment that lasted about 30 mins and when I went back to start the car I had the dreaded 5 seconds crank time again. Went out for dinner and car started no issues again for the drive home.

Maybe I should start counting the number of times I have no issue cranking between the 1 time it has an extended crank as it seems to follow a pattern. E.g cranks and starts fine 7 times then extended crank on eighth start up. Followed by 7 more normal start ups before another extended crank time

I reckon if it was a fuel pressure leak it would have had the extended crank the first time after not having been driven for 2 days rather then after a whole afternoon of driving around to different places?
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Old 03-12-2019, 08:01 PM   #18
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I don't think it's fuel pressure. Does it seem to struggle when the engine is warm but not at full temp? Are you able to log with your OBD tools?
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Old 03-12-2019, 08:20 PM   #19
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Hard to say. Sometimes even after driving for a while and the system is warm it starts no problem. No way for me to consistently reproduce the long crank. Makes identifying the problem that much more difficult

Yea I have an obd2 scan device but I have no idea what half of the stuff is haha.

I did do one of those tests and it showed everything as OK and there were no error codes
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Old 03-12-2019, 09:12 PM   #20
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Yea I have an obd2 scan device but I have no idea what half of the stuff is haha.
I hear you. Stuff's really daunting. Unfortunately, this is one of those in-between situations - not quite right but not bad enough to throw codes. Tough enough to troubleshoot in person. Might get lucky. Someone might read this and say "Oh, yeah. I had exactly the same problem. Ended up being a such-and-such."
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Old 03-12-2019, 09:55 PM   #21
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Hard to say. Sometimes even after driving for a while and the system is warm it starts no problem. No way for me to consistently reproduce the long crank. Makes identifying the problem that much more difficult

Yea I have an obd2 scan device but I have no idea what half of the stuff is haha.

I did do one of those tests and it showed everything as OK and there were no error codes
OK, let's go back to the source (the battery).

Is it the original battery?

Have you had it "load tested", as suggested up above?

If your battery is the original battery, it may be at the end of its useful life.

Maybe a new battery is in order?


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Old 03-12-2019, 10:32 PM   #22
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OK, let's go back to the source (the battery).

Is it the original battery?

Have you had it "load tested", as suggested up above?

If your battery is the original battery, it may be at the end of its useful life.

Maybe a new battery is in order?


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Im not the original owner of the car so I cant say when the battery was last changed but it is definitely not the original battery. One of the errands I was running yesterday was to head to the autoshop. I was ready to buy a new battery as suggested in the earlier posts but the guy did a baterry and load test for me and told me to save the money as the battery was perfectly fine.


Unfortunately this issue could be caused by so many different components I dont really want to throw money at it replacing parts if I can help it. I was going to change the fuel pump / fuel pressure regulator next but it seems like it might not be a fuel pressure issue.

Ive even had the engine taken apart and put back together with the recent recalls for the valve spring and the issue still persists. Not sure where to go from here or to just live with the slight issue and deal with an occasional long crank.

I even called up the local dealer and they wanted me to bring it in for a diagnostic and was looking to charge $140 for it and on enquiring further he said they would “plug in their computer into the ECU to get more information”. When I told him I had an obd2 scanner he said “our computer is much more advanced”. Im not sure how much more advanced it is and if Im willing to potentially throw away $140 for them to do a scan on an issue that probably isnt major enough to flag anything on their diagnostic test
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Old 03-12-2019, 10:50 PM   #23
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To be honest a long crank would just eat at me every time I started the car. They are telling the truth on the diagnostic computer, their are ones that go a lot deeper into it then just reading codes. I would pay the 140 or wait for a sale on service and get it looked at. They may find it's something simple and fix it without parts even. (loose connection) If you are worried about cost look for a import auto service business near you, they will likely charge less for correcting the same issue.
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Old 03-12-2019, 10:54 PM   #24
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OK, let's go back to the source (the battery).

Is it the original battery?

Have you had it "load tested", as suggested up above?

If your battery is the original battery, it may be at the end of its useful life.

Maybe a new battery is in order?


humfrz
I think humfrz is on the right track if you have a 2013 year FR-S on the original battery then it is nearing end of life. They test the battery for free at some local auto part stores near me. Might give that a try.
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Old 03-12-2019, 11:16 PM   #25
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To be honest a long crank would just eat at me every time I started the car.
Thats exactly how I feel. Not major issue but im obsessing over it and its eating me

Already did the battery check and load test at 2 different places and both said battery was good
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Old 03-12-2019, 11:26 PM   #26
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......….Im not sure how much more advanced it is and if Im willing to potentially throw away $140 for them to do a scan on an issue that probably isnt major enough to flag anything on their diagnostic test
Well, jaseow, I reckon you have two viable choices.

Live with it and try not to worry about it or take it in and get a diagnostic test done.

Back in the day, with cars with carburetors, one would pull the choke out a ways, pump the gas pedal a few times then crank on it. The old cars may take a few revolutions before they fired, depending on how well you read the weather conditions and set the choke appropriately and pumped the gas the right amount of times.

However, today, with many of the younger folks, they expect instant gratification (engine starting) right away and consistently.

Now, that reminds me, it's time for me to take a swig of my Milk of Magnesia.





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Old 03-12-2019, 11:36 PM   #27
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I'd say battery. I just replaced the one in my late 2013 car. It was starting to do the very slow cranks and started to get that will it start feeling. Popped a new battery in and it doesn't even feel like it turns over before firing up. Most cars won't fire the injectors until it hits a minimum crank speed.
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Old 03-12-2019, 11:43 PM   #28
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Hmm.. consensus seems to say change the battery. Should I just change it then even though 2 different places tested it and said it was fine ?


Not entirely convinced though as it starts up fine 9 out of 10 times its just that 1 extended crank that happens ever so occasionally that eats me up
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